Blogs from Capital Region, Guatemala, Central America Caribbean - page 114

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I´m here in Antigua finally a day late after the airline saw fit to send me my luggage. I had to fuss a bit but I got it last night and hauled out this morning in a shuttle here. OH, MY GOD! THIS PLACE IS BEAUTIFUL! Antigua is a colonial town in the central highlands of Guatemala. There are cobblestone streets, colonial style churches some of wich were destroyed by earthquakes a couple of hundred years ago. There is a strong presence of tradionally dressed Mayan women selling things... and for good reason, is crawling with the backpacking tourists. Still, the tourists surprisingly don´t ruin things here. I saw Guatemalan tourists as well. The climate is almost perfect with a little sunshine and warmth in the morning, and when that gets almost uncomfortable things cool off ... read more
The streets of Antigua
Mayan Women in the church courtyard
El Volcán Pacaya


This one is short. The cost of internet here is $4 an hour so I have to type fast. I will write more when I get to a cheaper spot outside Guatemala City. Got here last night but unfortunately my luggage hasn´t left the States yet. Apparently this is very common: I guess the airlines don´t consider cothing and personal belongings a necessity when you come to Guatemala. I´m hoping to get it tonight...or so they say. There isn´t much to report yet because i haven´t seen much. The flight was good because the bumped me up to first class when I requested a window seat. Not to bad. After dealing with my luggage problem upon arrival, the hotel picked me up from the airport and I´ve been waiting ever since. I tried to go to ... read more


We drove to Antigua without any problems. The "interamericanica" in Guatemala is much like the mexican pacific highway, but with fewer animals and fewer topes, which are called "tumulos" (tombs) here. There are, however, a huge amount of people and busses and pick-up trucks packed with people on the road. The busses here are very old american school busses painted in all colors one can think of. Some are just yellow. The people are really interesting. Few of the locals seem to speak Spanish as a native language. There are all kinds of mayan dilects. Obviously for me they sound the same. The natives here, especially teh women, dress in traditional costumes like in Bolivia, it´s really beautiful. The nature is also amazing. I lost count of how many volcanoes we drove by. I´m leaving by ... read more


Well, right now as I write this I am back in Antigua where I started - I didn't do the 3 day trek and I still haven't climbed a bloody volcanoe, not that I think it'll change me as a person. The main reason for this inactivity is that for the last 10 days I've had a stomach bug that just wouldn't let go of me. I thought, like I would back in Britain, that give it a day or two and I could ride it out - but no I certainly couldn't out here... The bugs are a lot more determined to f**k your life up! And they did with lots of headaches, nausea and a constant (almost affectionate) bond with the toilet. Thankfully, the worst of it is well over and I am ... read more
Lago Atitlan
The market at Panajachel


Remember I mentioned in the first entry that I didn't want to travel with Iberian airlines again? Well, it came back to haunt me (with a vengeance). The first flight was fine from London to Madrid. Now, on the second from Madrid to Guatemala I managed to get a great seat with stacks of legroom near the exit. It was about 2 hours into the flight, I had my legs stretched out, shoes off and totally relaxed and chuffed with myself for bagging such a great seat with no-one sat next to me. They had just served the meal and I was busy tucking into it. A hostess started to come around with the drinks trolley (you know the ones, the big heavy metal lumps that hurt when they bang into your arm or ankle), ... read more


We both found it a little strange passing through Guatemala City as it feels like a long time since we have been in a busy city!! Apparently it is the murder capital of Central America - the direct shuttle bus out to Antigua was a very welcome sight!! Antigua is a really pretty, colourful town in spite of the number of times that it has been hit by earthquakes and rebuilt. Thankfully we didnt experience any tremors although there had been one the previous week. As a coincidence, a girl from the gym at home is currently studying Spanish here (Fifers are everywhere!!). In retrospect making this our first stop to learn Spanish here would have been a good idea (however we have managed to get by with a couple of words and hand signals as ... read more
Arco de Santa Catalina
Cerro de la cruz
Live lava from a safe distance!


Greetings again, this time from Antigua, Guatemala! Actually right now I'm in Guatemala City, somewhere which def wasn't on my itinerary. Am trying to sort out flights and the sheer incompetence of a particular Spanish airline has driven me to desperation, hence having to hang around in one of the world's most dangerous cities while they eat their lunch and prob take a little nap... ggrrrr!!! Anyway, onto nicer things... Since my last post have been doing some serious relaxing. If the Galapagos was Paradise on Earth, then Vilcabamba in the South of Ecuador must surely be the garden of Eden! Mountains, cloud forest, lush green valleys, hummingbirds, more butterflies than you could shake a net at and stunning, stunning views. Spent much of my time admiring it all from the comfort of my own personal ... read more
The Panama Canal - Pacific side
Spotted at Cuenca bus station
Chicken bus


Robbed on our way to the world's most famous pick pocket festival Antigua during Semana Santa is known for thieves and pick pockets. One of the locals told me that the number of "tourists" from El Salvador and other parts of the country that congregate here in the week prior to the festivities is getting more and more alarming. "They aren't here for the parades or the parties and anyone who lives here can tell exactly who they are," she told me. "Antigua is so small, everyone knows one another. It makes me nervous to see all these shifty types everywhere." This was no news to us. We've heard all there is to hear about separating your valuables, never letting your bag go, keeping your eye on the zippers, especially in crowded places like markets and ... read more


Double-Duty: Spanish school and Semana Santa in Antigua in the same week! The Academia de Espanol de Sevilla set us up in a house where I was never sure how many people were permanent residents. Eduardo and Camilla, a lovely older couple in their early sixties were the heads of the household. They'd been having kids from the school stay with them for about three years and you could tell they were accustomed. They spoke slowly and clearly, making sure you understood what was going on. Their daughter Carolina was often around with her two children Maria and Diana, who were just as used to the constant rotation of guests. Brothers and uncles were also constantly stopping by. The daily routine for most of the week was up for breakfast with Eduardo at 7h30, off to ... read more


In travel, as in art, as in life, it is the small details that etch themselves into your heart and mind. The simple things are the ones that create a smile that radiates from inside all the way to my uplifted face that is staring at the sky thanking the heavens for dear sweet life. That is the feeling of Antigua. I swear I woke up with a smile on my face this morning, completely fascinated by the warmth of my blanket and the quiet of the dawn. The crisp cool air was a sensation I haven't experienced in a while, and it made me reminisce on falling leaves of various shades of orange and red, of apple orchards, down comforters, Norah Jones tunes, and wearing sweaters. This golden morning just got better and better as ... read more
Mayan textiles
Old horse drawn cart
More of La Merced




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