Page 2 of niknikjw Travel Blog Posts



The day dawned bright with a few clouds and we waited till 11am for our pickup (late and an indication of what was to follow - we are now on Bolivian time where 15mins actually means 50 or even longer). There were 3 others on the tour with us, a Bolivian from La Paz and a very nice young German couple who translated for us, we had a lot of fun with them. First stop is the train graveyard just out of town and now that the snow has gone we see the countryside in all it's rubbish. Wind blown litter surrounds most towns on the Bolivian altiplano. These trains once took minerals from the mines until the 1940's when it all ended. Back along the road to La Paz we come to the salt producing ... read more
the train graveyard
a few kms out of Uyuni is the train graveyard
train graveyard

South America » Bolivia » Potosí Department » Uyuni July 4th 2011

Monday For our night journey to Uyuni, the bus was advertise as the best in Bolivia. I would agree with that - it's not too hard to be the best. Once the seats were reclined, we were jammed in like sardines and my seat slowly returned to the upright position each hour. We were sitting in the second row, front row had lots of leg room and the guy in it stayed reclined well past dawn, even past breakfast. I had to tap him on the shoulder and ask him to give me a bit more room. Bolivian buses are different from those in Peru. The driver is separated from the passengers who are shut in behind a curtained door, so, unlike the Peruvian buses there are no large windows up front to see the road ... read more
checking emails
outside the hotel window
Uyuni Station

South America » Peru » Puno » Lake Titicaca June 28th 2011

Tuesday On the overnight bus, we roasted in the heating and when the bus stopped in Juliaca, the other town affected by the strikes, an American girl had her bag swiped from under her seat by another passenger. She didn´t notice until too late and spent the next hour crying and talking to her dad....3am, poor dad. The hotel in Puno graciously allowed us to use a room for free in the hour we had to prepare for the lake trip....like Machu Picchu we had to live out of our day packs. This time we even slept in our clothes. Unlike Machu Picchu it was far less comfortable. The 2 day boat trip, at a very leisurely pace took us first to the floating reed islands (about 60) where 4000 Uros people live with cattle, pigs ... read more
reed boat
this is how we make an island
island construction

South America » Peru » Cusco » Ollantaytambo June 23rd 2011

Thursday From Cusco you pass into the Sacred Valley, the Inca's most beloved area. Cusco means navel, it was the centre of their world. The valley is often wide and flat with terraces built on the lower slopes and up the side valleys. It is now harvest time and the people are out in the fields helping each other bring in the harvest. We've only seen machinery up on the mountain heights where the fields are large and unterraced. We stopped Pisac for the markets and to see llamas and at Urubamba for lunch. In this are, the river is called Urubamba, but it changes it name many times before it empties into the Amazon. At Ollantaytambo (get you tongue around that one), Inca ruins climb up the steep hillsides and here we see the most ... read more
markets at Pisac
selling spuds
mineral colours

South America » Peru » Cusco » Cusco » Cusco June 21st 2011

Tuesday and Wednesday The flight went via Juliaca near Lake Titicaca. The country is semi-arid and very rugged, with volcanoes and lakes. Juliaca is located in a very wide flay valley surrounded by low mountains (sedimentary rock turned on end) a deep purple brown colour. The houses are boxes of the same colour as many are built of mud bricks. As we neared Cusco, the Andes rose up in sharp snow-capped peaks and glaciers. We arrived in Cusco during festival, part of Inti Raymi (festival of the sun). Some of the streets of Cusco were closed for the parades which started mid-morning and were still going at 8pm. 3 TV stations were broad-casting live. Every day there is music, dancing and parades somewhere in the city. All very colourful and noisy. We have learnt a new ... read more
Cusco
Cusco during festivsal
Cusco Cathedral

South America » Peru » Arequipa » Colca Canyon June 19th 2011

Colca Canyon, one of the deepest in the world, is set among snow capped volcanoes one side and a mountain range the other. It's semi arid land and is home to about 40 families of condors as well as Quechua and Aymara speaking Indians. On the way out we hit 4910m (I think that could be about the highest we go in South America, I wasn´t expecting it so soon). From Yanque we hiked to the canyon, crossing where it becomes very narrow. In the almost vertical walls, ancient people have built cold storage rooms, colque. After a 2 hour walk in the valley by the canyon many of us were suffering altitude headaches. And that was despite chewing coca leaves on the bus, drinking coca tea at most meals and eating coca lollies...coca is supposed ... read more
Vicuña Zone
Jill in vicuña country
chewing coca leaves

South America » Peru » Arequipa June 16th 2011

We left Huacachina an hour late on a Cruz del Sur bus...what luxury! Seats recline way back and there are leg rests. We were upstairs in economy, second from front and on the ocean side so I had a very good view of the edge of the road literally at the edge of the cliff 100m above the crashing waves....must be why we travel at night....can´t see the dangers. We were served dinner and breakfast, a la airlines and in flight entertainment included music, DVD on destination and surrounds and movie (with English subtitles) Our speed was displayed above the big front window and beeped if it went over 90kph (that happened about 6 times, lasting a couple of minutes, maximum, on the 10 hour journey) Generally we averaged 40-50kph, dropping to 25 and sometimes staying ... read more
airline food on a bus
chicken farms in the desert
on the road to Arequipa

South America » Peru » Ica » Huacachina June 15th 2011

We are now in Ica, waiting for our overnight bus to Aeriquipa. There's a slight delay and we pass the time watching a Peruvian soap opera which seems to go on for hours. We stayed in the small oasis of Huacachina, in the desert. It looks very pretty but the water stinks. The hotel is really nice with a pool which I found too too cold to swim in. We were enjoying the lounges near the pool, reading under a shady tree when from above I was greeted with Hello. A couple of parrots wander around repeating this over and over. They also know the Spanish form Hola (pronounced Ola). Everyone is very friendly and last night after our dune buggy ride and sand boarding we were packed into a small car with 4 others and ... read more
cleaning up
Pauly the parrot
the dunes as far as the eye can see

South America » Peru » Ica » Ballestas Islands June 14th 2011

A 3am start to arrive for the Isla Ballestas trip at 8am! The staff in our hotel were kind enought to get breakfast for us, including fried eggs. A lot of farming can be seen on the way down the coast...all irrigated. They raise chooks on the beach. The towns are untidy and dusty and many of the buildings sprout long lengths of reo. (This was a very common sight in our travels) A fast boat takes us out to Isla Ballestas, rocky islands with caves, birds, penguins and seals. On the way out we see some old carvings in the hard slopes about 180m long and 50cms deep...been there well over 150 yrs but no one knows what they are or who did them. Because it NEVER rains, marks last a long time. Water comes ... read more
ancient carvings in the sand
Isla Ballestas
Isla Ballestas

South America » Peru » Lima June 11th 2011

With Jill living in China and me in Australia, this trip took quite a bit of organising. We started planning over 6 months earlier and now we were on our way at last. Day 1 After 30 long hours, 12 of them spent in airports, I arrived in Lima about 10:30pm and was greeted by a sign with Jill's name. No, it was only me they were picking up. It was so good to get out of the very dry plane air-conditioning. Because of a volcano erupting in Chile we had cancelled flights and delayed flights, only just catching our final connection to Lima. I was introduced to South American safety, or rather, lack there of, when my pick up told me to hide my bags below the seat to avoid getting robbed at red lights. ... read more
paragliding
cliff top park
cliffs of Lima




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