Even though my Swahili is atrocious Tanzania has taught me the words: Karibu and asanti, welcome and it's my pleasure, respectively. These people have class and style! The Maasai of this region are even taller, darker and more handsome...I didn't think it possible! My love affair with Tanzania began at the border, what a beaming smiling immigration officer...Karibu Tanzania seestah! My people my people! The entire country industrious and producing it would seem...little roadside cafés, Colorful art and signage everywhere, the women like brilliant butterflies. The artistic flair of the people evident everywhere I look...the dark red mud huts built just so... The thatch perfect in thickness, texture and design. The way a scarf billows in the wind, the tone on tone or gentle ombré of everyday items...this country is rich beyond compare! The people it's ... read more

As the truck rattles on heading for the Tanzania border I note the difference of the Maasai in this region, they appear taller, more autonomous, their robes less bright red instead deep cobalt blue with touches of black and slashes of of blood red scarlet. No one waves, no one smiles, they ignore us as we lumber on. I now turn my attention to the politics in the truck... Wanker... Australian word for jerk, better known in NY as …..(fill in the blanks!) One thing about group travel, especially budget group travel is you get what you pay for. For now there are not so many of us sharing the expense of this trip but man are there some doozies! We have the English copper or policeman, the Aussie house painter, an English office worker and ... read more

People refer to so many places as 'Gods Country' and that's fine but believe me when I tell you that I have been to Gods' Playground! The Maasai people and their home the Maasai Mara is incredible... The mind boggles! For now we visit the people ...the Maasai Later we will visit the Mara or vast plain, in their language. It is 1,5010 sq kilometers The 4 hour bone shaking drive off the tarmac into the Maasai Mara reserve is described by our intrepid driver Henry, as the worst road in Africa and honestly it could shake the fillings out of your teeth! Jarred and bounced along for hours on end with only acacia thorn bushes and dust dust dust....clouds of grit...dust...a fine pale brown powder over everything. Every once in a long while the nothingness ... read more

Jambo Muzungu Jambo! Welcome English speaker Welcome! Or maybe it's 'Welcome white people welcome!' the children shriek waving wildly running to greet the truck, limbs flailing virtually doing jumping jacks in the air. Where do I begin to describe the exuberance, beauty and bounty of Uganda! A cornucopia of riches and delights from the Nubian beauty's of Jinja, the source of the river Nile, the jewel toned birds, a belly full of ground nut stew, 3 on the back of a motor bike at night down country roads, dust in my face, wind in my hair and reggae music blasting from every shabby roadside stand. Dare I say I'm home? The orphanage where I taught a class before they made me dance in the middle of their circle much to the delight and side splitting amusement ... read more

So seven time zones, 36 hours and no luggage later I arrive in the dead of night at the 'guest house' and I use this term very loosely indeed. Here to await the truck that will jolt me north to Uganda then swing south in search of Zambia...through the Masai Mara down to Tanzania by boat to Zanzibar island across Malawi...the stuff of dreams... The 'guest house' is rudimentary at best with towels 'upon request' at the 'reception,' disgusting ex pat food (see chicken and leek pie) but large brand new mosquito nets, a garden rife with every variety of warbling bird and two gigantic weathered super friendly 'guard dogs'. In short a little slice of heaven if you could add some better food and you're easy to please…especially when your tent awaits! Between futile phone ... read more