Brennan Purtzer

Dolemitesprint

There's a big world out there, and I'm just a small man in the middle of it. I'm crossing Europe on a Vespa, and writing at least one book.
As a journalist and ethnomusicologist, I'm digging up all the music I can find along the way, and looking for a way to bring it to YOU.
I'm traveling with help from a hospitality association called SERVAS. Look it up; it might work for you too.
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Travel Blog Posts


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Dolemitesprint
April 10th 2010

The long and winding road On a clear, cold April day, I loaded my well-worn companion Olivia and left Pljevlja for Montenegro’s second largest city, Niksic (pop. 75,000); it would have been nice to know I was driving in the wrong direction. After 25km, I “asked” the townsfolk in the village of Gradac (pop. 364) “which way to Niksic?” This elicited an amused round of laughter. By “asked,” I mean to say I pointed in each direction, and said “Niksic,” with an implied question mark on the end of the word. A fifty-year-old man with a single tooth and traditional handmade farmer’s clothes, seemed quite sure that I had indeed traveled the wrong direction. As much as my prideful self would have rather traveled around the planet in the other direction, my retreat was imminent. Durmitor ... read more



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Dolemitesprint
April 9th 2010

When Bosnians really like you, they whack you with their cane Since I had 10 Bosnian marks that I needed to spend, I decided to buy fuel. I stopped in the town of Foca (40,000 people) to do so. But I couldn’t find a fuel station in Foca. I drove around and around, up and down looking everywhere, but I couldn’t find it; I knew it had to be there. I started heading down the highway, but stopped to check my map. While I was looking at the map, an old man who spoke no English snuck up behind me and slapped his hand on my shoulder. I was about to go on the defensive and tackle him when I saw he was trying to help me orient myself. This geezer, who spoke no English, ... read more



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Dolemitesprint
April 6th 2010

Held hostage The bastard is late. I’m sitting in the garage of this crazy university – or at least what was supposed to be the garage before they ran out of money and had to turn it into an office – waiting for the Turkish Prime Minister to arrive. The PM is coming to Sarajevo for the grand opening of this University my friend Zoe works at, and because he is late, they have barricaded the door to prevent anyone from leaving before he arrives (to further inflate his ego). Let me tell you exactly how I came to be held hostage at an international institution, waiting for this foreign chief executive … A worthy introduction to Sarajevo There is a marvelous stretch of modern, wide, actual freeway for about 20 kilometers, leading South to Sarajevo. ... read more



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March 30th 2010

I arrived in Zagreb in daylight. Two somewhat frustrating hours later, I finally found my host Dunja’s home. Dunja is a singer and folk song enthusiast. She can talk about folk music all night, if you let her – and you’d be a fool not to. Dunja set out early on just trying to give me some background on the Croatian music scene, and introduced me to a few artists. Dunja’s apprentice, Nina Romic, was the first Croatian musician I heard when I arrived at Dunja’s home. She’d set it up so that I would get to hear Nina right away when I walked in the door. Her soft voice, laid over misty, haunting arrangements was quite striking. I learned a tremendous amount from all the time I spent with Dunja. “I’m very emotional,” she said, ... read more



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Dolemitesprint
March 23rd 2010

I ignored all the warnings. My host Matej had promised to be unaccommodating and even said her house was full of poison, but I decided to visit her anyway. It turned out to be a great decision, and in the tiny village of Vinska Gora, Matej and her boyfriend Zdrocco ended up being some of the kindest people I’d met on my trip. Matej First she served me a vegetable soup, and we shared a glass of wine together. Then, along with her independent-minded and friendly dog Don, we set out amongst the freshly blooming sprouts of spring plants, and up the slopes of the South-easternmost Slovenian Alps. The view of Matej’s valley was absolutely stunning, even from our starting point. As we passed through wooded areas, and climbed up into the sky on this sunny ... read more



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Dolemitesprint
March 20th 2010

“It only takes cursory sample of your average Slovenian’s English to see how badly my Italian sucks,” says a note from my pad. “I could never have had this short conversation about beer in Italian.” Ljubljana Arriving in Ljubljana, it is clear this small town has something special. It has an air of safety and accommodation. I feel accepted and allowed to go about my plans without being harassed. There is a feeling that life is relatively secure, yet there isn’t an overwhelming police presence, as you often find in Italy. I may be the only tourist in the city, but there is a fair amount to see here. Ljubljana feels a bit like Reykjavik, in size and technology. It feels modern and new, much more like northern Europe than any Italian city. Perhaps the newness ... read more



Part 10: YOU MUST GO TO VENICE

Published: July 28th 2010Europe » Italy » Veneto » Venice
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March 16th 2010

Venice is the most expensive city in the world that I have seen, but it’s worth it. Whenever I’m locked somewhere and I feel like I’m forced to pay an exuberant amount for something/everything, I make the remark, “These bastards think they’re Disneyland.” In this case, Venice IS Disneyland. Venice is far betterthan Disneyland. Venice is a real freaking city, built in the last millennia, where all the buildings are fantastic, and the streets themselves are works of art. There is nothing that can possibly prepare the well-traveled voyager, who has seen hundreds of cities, for the miracle that is Venice. The idea of so much water in a city is simply unfathomable, to make a small pun. What struck me, as I rode the public water bus for two magnificent, sunset hours, was that the ... read more



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March 14th 2010

Milano was something of a disaster. I wasn’t hurt badly, but nothing I tried to do worked out. Armani aggravation My primary goal in Milano was to get pictures taken, wearing a new Armani suit. I contacted Armani headquarters the previous month, telling them I wanted to take pictures for a story I was pitching about the fashion awareness among Milanese. They told me that would be fine. They didn’t speak English, but they still told me it would be fine. When I arrived, no one at Armani was aware of my request, and the store manager Michelangelo said they needed to have confirmed clearance to have photos published of someone wearing their clothes (even though they were released several months ago). I ended up spending about two hours pacing about the store and picking out ... read more



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March 14th 2010

Socialism: a family affair All I saw of Bologna as I motored on through its highways were the booted prostitutes on the street corner, wearing hot pants in the snow. When I reached Modena, my host Claudio told me they were mostly Romanians and Nigerians, who had settled into that particular market niche in Northern Italy. As he told me this, we watched hundreds of young and old Modenese parade through the streets in support of a communist agenda in the upcoming national elections. Swarms of impartial SWAT officers stood aloofly, observing the protest. Two beaming young girls rushed to a portable microphone, and led the chanting that accompanied the march. They smiled with great satisfaction as they venomously unleashed their harsh words of criticism against the sitting government. My host family Claudio and Cornelia are ... read more






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