At 2.30am, a gentle knock on the bamboo door of our room was met by a muffled, "Yeah!" from us and we got up, threw on the clothes we has cleverly left out for ourselves the previous evening and stumbled out to the waiting jeep where our guide practically threw us into the back of the decrepit vehicle and we were off! Whizzing around tight bends in the road, following the tail-lights of the line of jeeps ahead of us, we climbed even higher still, our ears popping and bones shaken to the core. There was a loud growling noise coming from the back of the car, and our driver soon stopped and got out to look what was causing the noise. It transpired that it was the rear door that was the problem, so to
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