Having hung in a hammock for three days in the Laos Four Thousand Islands, the chaotic Cambodian city of Kratie came as a bit of a shock to the system. Stepping off the bus in the middle of the sprawling, and not-so-pleasant-smelling market, we were beside the mega Mekong River once again; it was becoming like an old friend. Although this was no quiet and intimate reunion, as even though the spectacular and uninterrupted sunset shimmered to a close on the water (see pic of Marta la guapa), the constant hum of motorbikes, market haggling and honking horns was impossible to ignore. But, in one little moment of loveliness, a young girl approached us, beamed a massive toothy smile at Marta, and then extended her tiny arm to reveal a little welcome present in her hand.
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