Blogs from Dhaka, Dhaka, Bangladesh, Asia
'Tell me why are we, so blind to see, that the ones we hurt, are you and me’ - from the song ‘Gangsta’s Paradise’ by Coolio CNGs, four-wheel drives, pick-up drop-off cars, dogs, pedestrians, the tempos-of-death stopping suddenly, randomly and askew, and the seemingly out of control buses are there to dodge like bullets. Leaping over the median strip like a cheetah, slithering by the edge of the fence that’s proudly sponsored by a local bank like a boa constrictor, there’s the menace of the mega-conglomeration of choking smoking motorised mayhem once more to brave, on the far side. The trials that need to be overcome for a few groceries! The Bronx, Harlem or Dhanmondi: yo! We’re brothers living in the ’hood. The tea stall guy is on the corner. ‘You close up,’ I threaten him, ... read more
Now that it’s apparent that CNG drivers were only using the meter as a special tribute to the Cricket World Cup and Dhaka’s back to her usual self, it’s hardly surprising when inching through the jams that one’s thoughts are sometimes given over to the metro dreaming. With the regularity of newspaper announcements on the subject I can’t be the only one. But what sort of metro will it be? The number and width of the rails, the carriage and platform dimensions, above ground, below ground: let the engineers tackle such trivialities. More important are the cultural dimensions, for in any city the nature of the mass transit system is a window into the community’s psyche. A metro system is far more than transport. It’s a cultural statement. In Switzerland trains have a habit of leaving ... read more
The unworldly villager, the ‘Mofiz’, easily taken advantage of and not altogether at ease with modernity: a ubiquitous someone to be blamed for a haphazardly driven rickshaw, a lack of knowledge of Dhaka’s geography or that ultimately unavoidable wrong step taken on the city’s overcrowded streets. In the village of course there never was a bigger ‘Mofiz’ than me. Watch my attempts at the washing-mud-off-your-feet-without-using-hands manoeuvre, at a tube well, in that way villagers do with ease, without even grabbing onto someone standing nearby for balance, with algae underfoot making the concrete slab slippery. It must be amusing to the villagers, my uncoordinated efforts, but they’re very polite about it. Come to think of it, like most westerners I can’t even properly squat. Watch my attempts to cast a fishing-net in that slightly circular slinging fashion, ... read more
...meanwhile... back at the mezbankhana...
Published: November 11th 2010Asia » Bangladesh » Dhaka » DhakaThere are things that really should not be. Statistically speaking, according to probability and surely taking account of an element of chance as well, being born in Sydney it is altogether unlikely I should be living in Dhaka. It should not be I experienced something of Bangladesh; can say things in Bangla. By any prediction I should be as my brother, innocently believing Bangladesh a Hindu country, some version or other of India. In all likelihood I should be wary of it, the poverty, the hygiene and the Islam. Such elements would make me more typically Australian. But thankfully my life is not that. Yes, I face the Dhaka that we know is part sanely-crazy and part insanely enjoyable. Like the rest of the public I’m in the jams, making the slog home each day, which ... read more
One fine morning as can happen when I am not running late enough to give it a miss, I stopped for a cup of tea at the usual tea shop by the office. Incidentally, most of the tea shops in Dhaka seem to have become communist in the last few months, being painted bright red by a cigarette company (which may have communist leanings or maybe the cigarette tycoon’s beloved daughter is to marry and he wants the whole city to celebrate - red is the colour of brides’ saris). In actuality though, it is not revolution brewing but only, as always, tea. Tea stalls thrive on ‘regulars’, you get to know all the customers if you throw away enough time at them. This morning one of the regulars arrived as he would. ‘Give me ... read more
It was coming home from work the other day when something odd happened that really made me understand what it means to live in Dhaka. It was exceptionally odd precisely because it wasn’t. I hailed a CNG, a three-wheeler taxi vehicle, told the guy where I wanted to go and then asked the price: nothing odd in that. He said, ‘there’s a meter isn’t there?’ Here’s the part that very, very Dhaka: my immediate reaction, the unplanned thought that springs into your mind, the honest reaction was, ‘and what kind of scam is that?’ I nearly didn’t accept the ride since in two years I don’t believe any CNG driver has ever used the meter before (they all have them). In the end I got in, still quite suspicious but unable to work out what the ... read more
Digital Bangladesh and the United Nations Mission to Protect Rickshaw-Drivers from Sun Stroke (the UNMPRDSS) The government of Bangladesh has a development programme called ‘Digital Bangladesh’ with the goal I believe of rolling out technology across the government and into the villages. It’s a serious programme; but like almost everything, Bangladeshis make fun of it. For example, once I bought digital cake from a tea shop: anything new, modern, or even not, can be called ‘digital’ to sound better, or not. The other morning I was waiting on the side of the road for a CNG to take me to work, and this rickshaw approaches and parks just in front of me. The driver didn’t seem to be doing much. He was just your average villager in a t-shirt and lungee, pacing himself on his ... read more
It started back in watermelon season, my good relations with the guys at the local fly spray, deodorant and fruit store. I must’ve been bored, because one day when one of them was trying to convince me to buy grapes as I walked along the street I got cheeky and pulled him to the side, saying in a low voice but with some gravity to it, ‘look I don’t need any grapes, but you see those watermelons over there…’ They were being sold at the next shop and were lined up along the footpath. ‘I could use one of those,’ I told him, ‘but unfortunately I have no money, so how about if I distract the shopkeeper you could just grab one and give it to me quietly later? Don’t worry, they have many watermelons, they’ll ... read more
Dhaka Times: Dinner with the Boat People
Published: November 3rd 2010Asia » Bangladesh » Dhaka » DhakaDinner with the Boat People It’s satisfying when plans make themselves, like yesterday when my friend Situ called me just on leaving the office to meet with an old friend of his at Blah-Blah-Blah City, which is a huge shopping complex that attracts some superlative or other: world’s largest shopping centre in that part of Dhaka? The actual name of the place is Bashundara but for some reason in the early days I thought that name was difficult to remember, hence the renaming to Blah-Blah-Blah. Looking forward to meeting up, I took the Pajero… okay, it’s not my Pajero, it’s the Pajero of that short balding fellow who could well have modelled in the title role for the Indian version of Charlie Brown approximately forty years back, assuming there is a South Asian Charlie Brown. Okay, ... read more
I’ve decided to include the little surprises and mini-adventures of Dhaka life that make living here so fulfilling. The ‘Dhaka Times’ will be for brief updates of daily things that happen: the intention is not to write retrospectively though I want to capture several things that happened in the last few months first. This is the first edition! Becoming Bangladeshi Yesterday I was told thrice I am becoming Bangladeshi. Once was by a work colleague as we walked down the street. I was walking along the road since in busy Dhaka any space will do. ‘You’re so Bangladeshi,’ he told me, ‘there’s a footpath and still you’re walking on the road.’ Similarly, Bangladeshis don’t use overbridges unless they really have to. The city has quite a few across the big roads, but the locals instead like ... read more














