Blogs from Dhaka, Dhaka, Bangladesh, Asia - page 4

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Asia » Bangladesh » Dhaka » Dhaka July 15th 2008

Two stories about children that I’d like to remember: Child beggars are pervasive. It’s one of the more difficult things to deal with here even after a long time. In a car, they will swarm me, pressing their faces against the window yelling, “Madam! Madam!” While walking, they will run towards me, grab my hands, try to pull my bags if I’m carrying any. “Madam, please!” they continually call. Sometimes I buy them some bananas or something or give them an extra mango from my backpack. Most of the time I brush them aside, say hello and ask them to go away. I try to steer them away from getting taken out by cars as they surround me while I walk. Sometimes they are sweet and look badly in need of some food. Sometimes they are ... read more

Asia » Bangladesh » Dhaka » Dhaka July 13th 2008

Day 47, July 13, 2008 It’s kind of surprising that it’s my 47th day in Bangladesh. It actually does feel that long, I suppose, because I feel very settled here. I think I stopped writing as frequently because the everyday things I experience are generally not very new and exciting as they once were. I have a much different perception of everything now. Perhaps I am more callous, I’m not sure. If I’ve developed any character trait, it’s the ability to feel fine in the most bizarre and uncomfortable situations because they seem to arise pretty frequently. I have a better ability to differentiate between when I should be cautious in a situation, when I am unsafe, and when I’m completely fine and just uncomfortable. I also have a better understanding of what it means to ... read more

Asia » Bangladesh » Dhaka » Dhaka June 29th 2008

With 24 hours to take on Dhaka with a vengeance, we waste no time getting stuck in, despite my still somewhat feeble condition. We ride cycle rickshaws all around Old Dhaka, even though the UK government travel pages warn against it. (I think we only live once but it's debatable.) These are the first subcontinental vehicles i have travelled in that crash constantly. As Seth puts it, when you're travelling at 2 miles an hour, it hardly matters, does it? It's fun getting stuck in jams and seeing all the rickshaw art - film heroines and heroes, peacocks and animals - up close, even if it means we are in fact hurtling into the back of the given rickshaw. Each narrow street seems to be dedicated to the trade of a different necessity - here's where ... read more
Outside the Sitara Mosque, Dhaka
Old Dhaka Streets
Rickshaw Art, Dhaka

Asia » Bangladesh » Dhaka » Dhaka June 28th 2008

The first thing I did on arriving in Dhaka was throw up against a wall. Considering I’ve been wanting to visit this city for eight years, it wasn’t really the entrance I was expecting to make. The bus from Kuakata had taken eleven hours, and we had travelled through the night. It was a great journey. All of the stars were out. ‘The Plough’ - that great saucepan of the sky - was the most prominent (quite appropriate for the subcontinent, I think.) The headlights lit up the endless rows of bushy trees, which appeared bright green momentarily then whooshed out of sight. Big grasshoppers kept jumping in through the window and landing on me. I know they bite (a bad experience in Agra four years back…) so I always just wait for them to move. ... read more
Tired Feet, Kuakata to Dhaka

Asia » Bangladesh » Dhaka » Dhaka June 24th 2008

I’ve been staring at the water for some time now. The burning sun is hazy and doesn’t reflect much off the calm brown water. All of the sudden I see an animal jump. “A dolphin!” I say to my friend next to me. “Did you see it?” She looks at me, “A dolphin? I don’t think river dolphins come up this far.” “It was shiny and gray and arched out of the water?” “Well, I guess it was a dolphin then,” she shrugs and takes out her camera for photographs of some boys playing along the riverbank. I’ve taken a boat trip with some friends and acquaintances. It’s guided and so it’s effortless, which was probably the best part. We were driven west out of Dhaka to yet another wide, slow-moving river. The boat is ... read more
Hindu palace
the king's bath
in the palace

Asia » Bangladesh » Dhaka » Dhaka June 20th 2008

It’s been awhile since I’ve done much because I got pretty ill. And I thought salads were supposed to be good for you…Truth be told I do know that this is an unsanitary place and you’re not supposed to eat produce that isn’t peeled or cooked thoroughly. But I’ve had some salad and fresh veggies and fruit because really, it’s the only consistenly good food Bangladesh has to offer. Sometimes I guess you get reminded arrogance can bring you to your knees, quite literally. So after all the vomiting and fevers finally stopped, I’ve begun to recover though I still have only left the apartment to go to the grocery store down the street. Sooo now I know why people come back from South Asia so skinny. One of my roommates also came down with ... read more

Asia » Bangladesh » Dhaka » Dhaka June 16th 2008

To get to work, I am picked up and dropped off by a van in a large traffic circle, which is a 15 to 20 minute walk to my home, depending on how long it takes to cross the road. I tend to take a rickshaw in the morning because it’s so early and in the evening I walk home since I’ve been sitting all day. I often get children, mothers with babies, disabled people, old people calling “Madam! Madam!” and running up to me for money. Usually I’m trying to avoid attention from everybody so I keep walking. On Monday I was feeling a little different because I had a good day at work and had also given to a beggar for the first time that morning—a mango to a mother. So sure enough, ... read more

Asia » Bangladesh » Dhaka » Dhaka June 14th 2008

Kairul claims he is 18, but it is highly unlikely that he is over 15. His waist is not much wider than the bicycle seat that he hovers over, and his legs are barely long enough for him to reach the pedals while seated. He spends most of his work day peddling standing up. His pre-pubescent looks aside, Kairul’s boyish curiosity and fascination with the world also give away his age. As he peddles down the streets of Dhaka, avoiding gaping potholes and confidently pulling u-turns in the middle of oncoming traffic, I often catch him letting his eyes wander around and up. Airplanes capture his attention fairly consistently, and he is fond of pointing out architectural curiosities. “Khub shundar,” he announced one evening as we curved around a traffic circle featuring a modern silver sculpture ... read more
Dhaka intersection
Gulshan 2
Seth and Kairul

Asia » Bangladesh » Dhaka » Dhaka June 13th 2008

Tomorrow marks two weeks from my arrival in Bangladesh. Everything has happened so quickly, and already I feel that I’ve come a long way from my first days in the country, when I was positive that my body would never adjust to the heat and that I would never figure out how to say “dhonobad” (thank you) properly. I landed in Dhaka at 6 am on a Saturday and was met at the airport by Elizabeth—the girl whose position I am taking—and a wall of hot sticky air. We hit the ground running, and after a full day in Dhaka we loaded a launch boat on Saturday night, headed down river to the field site where our research is done. In Barisal, a rural district crisscrossed by waterways, we conducted site visits and checked in on ... read more
Waterways
Waterways
Well wishers from the weaving village

Asia » Bangladesh » Dhaka » Dhaka June 12th 2008

I finally left Dhaka. I suppose it was about time since there is an entire country and continent that is left to see outside this metropolis. I planned to spend two nights in Matlab, though I ended up shortening it to one night for various reasons. The trip started early at 7:00AM when a car came to my apartment to pick me up. From that I switched to a van, which jostled and honked its way out of Dhaka’s morning commute. After about an hour and a half, we stopped in this little town. A few boys around nine years old rushed to the van to carry the passengers’ belongings but I insisted on carrying my own. This country has been a confusing twist of needing to be very independent and yet let others do menial ... read more
B Block center
B Block
Ambulane




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