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Background: In 1959, three years before independence from Belgium, the majority ethnic group, the Hutus, overthrew the ruling Tutsi king. Over the next several years, thousands of Tutsis were killed, and some 150,000 driven into exile in neighboring countries. The children of these exiles later formed a rebel group, the Rwandan Patriotic Front (RPF), and began a civil war in 1990. The war, along with several political and economic upheavals, exacerbated ethnic tensions, culminating in April 1994 in the genocide of roughly 800,000 Tutsis and moderate Hutus. The Tutsi rebels defeated the Hutu regime and ended the killing in July 1994, but approximately 2 million Hutu refugees - many fearing Tutsi retribution - fled to neighboring Burundi, Tanzania, Uganda, and the former Zaire. Since then, most of the refugees have returned to Rwanda, but about 10,000 that remain in the neighboring Democratic Republic of the Congo have formed an extremist insurgency bent on retaking Rwanda, much as the RPF tried in 1990. Despite substantial international assistance and political reforms - including Rwanda's first local elections in March 1999 and its first post-genocide presidential and legislative elections in August and September 2003, respectively - the country continues to struggle to boost investment and agricultural output, and ethnic reconciliation is complicated by the real and perceived Tutsi political dominance. Kigali's increasing centralization and intolerance of dissent, the nagging Hutu extremist insurgency across the border, and Rwandan involvement in two wars in recent years in the neighboring Democratic Republic of the Congo continue to hinder Rwanda's efforts to escape its bloody legacy.




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Settled into my old room at Auberge la Caverne, sipping cappuccino at the Bourbon Coffee - Kigali, green and rolling, brushed by plump tufts of cumulus, receding like waves in the distance - I feel buoyed, at peace. New York is a memory, Vermont is a memory, the great emotional upheaval I’d dreaded these past few weeks little more than a slight murmur of unease. The apartment hunt is on, and the thought of making a home of this small, energetic city for the next few months is already growing on me. You feel something in Kigali these days. You see [View Full Entry]

PostcardJunkie - Christopher Vourlias | Read The Full Entry | Subscribe
2374 Words | 0 Comment(s) | 4 Photo(s) | 0 Video(s)
Published: July 6th 2009 | 163 Views | [diary=415930]

Ayuub, courtesy of Thierry Dushimimana.
Somewhere in Rwanda.
Somewhere else in Rwanda.

Sorry I didn't get a chance to make a post yesterday; we were very busy. Yesterday we drove down Butare along with a journalist from Boston who is here to do a story on the genocide and Rwanda's reconciliation. Along the way the mountains gave way to wide valleys with large rolling hills. Butare is Rwanda's second-largest city and was the former colonial captial of the Belgian territory of Rwanda-Urundi. In 1962 the capital was moved to Kigali because of its central location. Butare was the largest city at the time, but today Kigali is many times larger. After walking around [View Full Entry]

Gamosan - Andrew James Frenz | Read The Full Entry | Subscribe
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Published: July 18th 2009 | 34 Views | [diary=419595]


Flowers and names
Flowers and names
Kigali Memorial Centre
I warm further to Rwandan minibuses when we leave Gisenyi on time and only half full but the comfort levels drop at Ruhengeri when the remaining seats are filled by other Kigali-bound passengers and their luggage. There are many wooden cylinders in various roadside trees, and it's only later that I figure out that they are beehives. We pass numerous signs along the way - I can't read any Kinyarwanda but the word "Jenoside" in red letters presumably means the obvious, and I come to the conclusion that these are memorial sites from the madness of 1994. There are many. Like [View Full Entry]

Jabe - John McCabe | Read The Full Entry | Subscribe
4188 Words | 1 Comment(s) | 14 Photo(s) | 0 Video(s)
Published: July 27th 2009 | 351 Views | [diary=409040]

Cityscape
Flowers
Eternal flame

Left Ruhengeri this morning to make a few stops in the area around Kinigi, the town closest to the Verungas, on the road to the DRC. On our way out we saw two trucks of soldiers headed to the border. The Imababazi group from yesterday had seen a convoy of seven trucks full of UN soldiers also headed to the border. Hmm. We stopped at a Batwa settlement a couple miles outside Kinigi. The Twa are a race of pygmies that live in Rwandas forests. They make up about 2% of the population. We watched them perform a dance, and once [View Full Entry]

Gamosan - Andrew James Frenz | Read The Full Entry | Subscribe
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Published: July 18th 2009 | 20 Views | [diary=419593]


This one's probably going to be pretty long; I've got a lot to explain. Saw President Kagame's house last night. Lots of soldiers with assault rifles guarding it. Came to the realization today that nearly every business in downtown Kigali is guarded by a security guard with a shotgun. Woke up this morning and got on the bus to the Kigali Genocide Center. The center includes a large museum similar to the Holocaust museum in D.C. There are also 15 completed mass graves, as well as two that are still open and being filled as bodies are found. There are currently [View Full Entry]

Gamosan - Andrew James Frenz | Read The Full Entry | Subscribe
1151 Words | 0 Comment(s) | 0 Photo(s) | 0 Video(s)
Published: July 18th 2009 | 42 Views | [diary=419594]


Forty hours, seven time zones, and two dismal lay-overs after leaving New York, I arrive in Kigali at half-past three in the morning, a somnolent mess of rumpled clothes, dried-out contacts, and skin like wax paper. The bunch of us debarking in Rwanda shuffle through the airport’s halls like refugees; apart from a young, eager barrista manning the bar at the Bourbon Coffee shop, the place is lifeless. You can’t help but feel like a fugitive creeping into a country under the cover of darkness. I think of my first visit to Rwanda last year, whisking across the smooth tarmac from [View Full Entry]

PostcardJunkie - Christopher Vourlias | Read The Full Entry | Subscribe
1746 Words | 1 Comment(s) | 3 Photo(s) | 0 Video(s)
Published: July 5th 2009 | 213 Views | [diary=415304]

Morning, Rwanda
Tuesday night in Kigali

Woke up this morning at 5:15 to see the gorillas. After an hour car ride to the national park office, we signed in and were put in a group with a dual American/Rwandan citizen who lives in Richmond. We were assigned our two rangers, who told us about the family of gorillas which we were going to see as well as about the mountain gorillas in general. Volcanoes National Park is right up against the borders with the DRC and Uganda. Both the DRC and Uganda have national parks on the other side of these borders. I use the term "national [View Full Entry]

Gamosan - Andrew James Frenz | Read The Full Entry | Subscribe
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Published: July 18th 2009 | 22 Views | [diary=419591]


Not having any expectations for this trip was probably a good thing! My Rwandan life so far has been full of surprises and challenges and it's only been a week. On Monday, June 5th, myself and another med student from NOSM named Julie left from Toronto to head over to Rwanda to complete a 4 week medical placement with the International Federation of Medical Students. I was to be placed in surgery, while Julie was going to be spending her time in internal medicine. On our way to Rwanda, we had a 14 hour stop over in Amsterdam which was incredible. [View Full Entry]

celiasprague - celia sprague | Read The Full Entry | Subscribe
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Published: June 11th 2009 | 79 Views | [diary=407511]


Observation: Red Eminem shirts are really common here. Question: How does a four year old Rwandan living in a remote village 45 mins walk from the nearest road end up with a "Hillary Duff 2005 US Tour" shirt? We went to a crafts associations today in a very remote village about a two hour walk from Ruhengeri. After working our way down from the mountains into a giant valley, we walked the last 45 mins on raised dirt paths between 8-10 foot tall beanstalks. Saw another Project Rwanda bike- that makes four so far. The fgirst thing we did was make [View Full Entry]

Gamosan - Andrew James Frenz | Read The Full Entry | Subscribe
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Published: July 18th 2009 | 28 Views | [diary=419590]


By Gamosan
June 10th 2009
Imbabazi Africa » Rwanda » Province du Nord
Last night after dinner all the water in Ruhengeri ran out. It came back on at around 3 PM today. According to some of the locals, the water goes out once or twice a week during the dry season. We left this morning for Imbabazi orphanage, which is in a very remote part of the country near the Congolese border. We drove an hour down a paved highway out of Ruhengeri, and then moved on to a terribly made dirt road which basically consisted of volcanic rock with some gravel to "level" it out. On the way we saw lots of [View Full Entry]

Gamosan - Andrew James Frenz | Read The Full Entry | Subscribe
345 Words | 0 Comment(s) | 0 Photo(s) | 0 Video(s)
Published: July 18th 2009 | 10 Views | [diary=419588]