Blogs from Souss-Massa-Draâ, Morocco, Africa

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Africa » Morocco » Souss-Massa-Draâ » Erg Chigaga March 9th 2024

Nach einer erneut etwas eintönigen Fahrt durch karge Sandsteinlandschaften wird die Vegetation um uns herum irgendwann immer sandiger, je mehr wir uns den Sahara-Ausläufern im Erg Chigaga nähern. Die Orte, die eigentlich meistens eher losen Häuseransammlungen gleichen, bestehen bald nur noch aus Lehmbauten, das Leben dort erscheint immer einfacher, es sind deutlich mehr Tierkarren als Autos zu sehen. Immer öfter stehen statt der bislang üblichen Ziegenherden Kamele am Wegesrand und Sandverwehungen erschweren die Fahrt. Bald sind in der Ferne große orangefarbene Dünen zu erkennen, die ersten Zeichen, dass wir uns unserem Ziel, der kleinen Wüstenstadt Merzouga, nähern. Wir erreichen am frühen Nachmittag unser schönes lehmfarbenes Kasbah Hotel mit Pool und verbringen den Nachmittag dort am Poolbereich. Auch unser Zimmer und unsere kleine eigene Terrasse sind wunderschön, traditionell und do... read more
Merzouga
Merzouga
Pool in Merzouga

Africa » Morocco » Souss-Massa-Draâ March 8th 2024

Über Land und einmal durch Marrakeschs verrückten Verkehr hindurch (die Hauptroute ins Atlas Gebirge führt von Essaouira aus tatsächlich leider mitten durch das Stadtzentrum was uns locker eine Stunde Zeit kostet), ein paar Kilometer Serpentinen, über den berühmten Tiz-n-Tichka Pass (2.167 m) und dann wieder runter, durch ein malerisches Flusstal immer entlang des Abgrunds und "schwupps" (= knapp 5 Stunden später), sind wir mitten drin im beeindruckenden schroffen Atlasgebirge, rund 270 km östlich von Marrakesch. Hier sieht es zum ersten Mal so aus wie Marokkos Berge in meiner Vorstellung aussahen. Während das nördliche Rifgebirge viel grüner und lieblicher war als ich es mir vorgestellt hatte, sieht man hier im so genannten Mittleren Atlas, wilde rostrote Canyons und schwarze karge Mondlandschaften. Und in der Ferne ab und zu sogar die schneebedeckten Gipfel des hohen Atlas weiter südl ... read more
Ait-Ben-Haddou
Ait-Ben-Haddou
Ait-Ben-Haddou

Africa » Morocco » Souss-Massa-Draâ » Agadir May 30th 2023

We stay around the hotel for most of the time we are in Agadir. On the first morning we strike out and walk about 20 minutes to find some shops for some bits and pieces. Not the most scenic walk but it gives us some exercise. One day we are supposed to visit the Souss Massa nature reserve to see the birds in and around the wetlands, but we decide the sybaritic pleasures of doing nothing outweigh the attraction of trekking on foot in the heat. The idle option, but it is a holiday. One day we decide to make the effort to see Agadir so we summon the driver and guide. Agadir was levelled in an earthquake in 1960 and completely rebuilt. It is a dump, no other word for it. Large areas are now ... read more
View from our balcony, Agadir
Medina walls, Essaouira
Essaouira ramparts

Africa » Morocco » Souss-Massa-Draâ » Ouarzazate May 19th 2023

We woke up to beautiful clear skies and a view of the snow covered mountains in the High Atlas. Our first stop was Ait Benhaddou, a picturesque village that is now a UNESCO World Heritage site, best known for featuring in numerous films including Gladiator, though for that film was there significant enhancement of the site by the use of CGI. By arriving early we managed to avoid the crowds, as we walked through the outer wall and then up narrow passageways between ochre coloured buildings. We were taken round one Berber home, which had a small pen to keep the sheep in, as well as storage space for their hay. The unlit original kitchen with an open fire sat next to a more modern kitchen with at least some mod cons. The village nestles at ... read more
Egyptian set, Atlas Studios
Snow on the Anti Atlas mountains
Inside Taourirt kasbah Ouarzazate

Africa » Morocco » Souss-Massa-Draâ » Aït Benhaddou May 16th 2022

"We bid fond farewell to Todra this morning en-route to Ait Benhaddou via Ouarzazate. We will stop to buy lunch along the way and have a chance for an optional tour of the Film studios in Ouarzazate, famous for films such as Gladiators, The Last Temptation of Christ and the Living Daylights. On a hill along the Ouarzazate River we find Ait Benhaddou, a UNESCO World Heritage site that boasts great examples of Kasbahs, some of which remain inhabited. This afternoon we have a guided tour of the famous Kasbah and village. This is where Lawrence of Arabia was once filmed. Overnight Ait Benhaddou (Breakfast & Dinner included).“... read more
En Route to Ouarzazate, Morocco
En Route to Ouarzazate, Morocco
En Route to Ouarzazate, Morocco

Africa » Morocco » Souss-Massa-Draâ » Agadir March 4th 2022

On my way along the quiet promenade at Agadir I got my first good look at the local magpies. It was only then that I realised they were different to the ones at home in Ireland. They had bright blue markings around their eyes and less white. I stayed for a few days at a lovely house in the village of Takad just south of Agadir. I was hoping to see a bald ibis at some point as I explored the Souss Massa National Park. No luck, but it was lovely to get a couple of days cycling without a full set of panniers. On the first day I headed south on the N1. It was a pretty busy road, not for the faint hearted. There was a thin sliver of hard shoulder that I tried ... read more
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Africa » Morocco » Souss-Massa-Draâ » Ouarzazate March 25th 2020

It was going to be difficult to top the great experiences we had in the Erg Chebbi on the previous day and night -- our first camel ride, seeing the vivid sunset and moon rise from the crest of a red sand dune in the Sahara Desert, a night sky full of stars, glamping, and being well fed and entertained with music and dancing around the fire cauldron thanks to our hospitable Berber hosts. But before wandering off to our individual tents for that night, our guide, Larbi, had given us the exact time of sunrise the following morning. Since it would be the perfect ending to experience the desert light full circle from sunrise to moon rise, we didn’t want to miss it. Little by little, our fellow travelers emerged from their tents, obviously still ... read more
Sahara Sunrise

Africa » Morocco » Souss-Massa-Draâ » Ouarzazate January 27th 2020

Before leaving the Dades Valley this morning we took a drive to Tissdrine, passing through the beautiful rock formations called the Monkeys Toes. We've been making a bit of fun of Knackers for the past week, but today, the tables are turned. Having told Hamid at the beginning of our trip that I didn't want to be sitting around all day eating and getting fat in Morocco, today we have parked the van at the bottom of the hill and walked to the top so that " the fat woman can get her exercise"! Shane has renamed this part of the mountain "Monkeys Arsehole" because there is a big hole in the middle of the rock. They both think this is very funny. Its like being on a school camp with 9 year old boys. "I ... read more
Tissdrine
Tissdrine
Ouarzazate

Africa » Morocco » Souss-Massa-Draâ » Ouarzazate January 19th 2020

Here I go again! Set off tomorrow for a short adventure in Spain and Morocco. Only three and a half weeks but mostly hectic travelling. Start off with 4 nights in Malaga, staying with friend John who is hiring an apartment near the city centre (he's already there). John's brother, Michael, who lives near Granada will be joining us towards the end of this week. On Friday 24th, Michael & me head off by coach to the ferry. Then, after a night in Tangier, catch a train to Marrakech, a few nights there then a coach to Ouazazate, near the sahara (3nights), then a coach to Tarroudant, south of the High Atlas from Marrakech (3nights), then after 1 night in Agadir, a coach to Tafroute, in middle of the Anti Atlas (3nights). Then it's a mad ... read more
After

Africa » Morocco » Souss-Massa-Draâ » Taghazout April 24th 2019

The sun cannot be covered by a net ~ Moroccan Proverb HE SAID... Today we were travelling northwest from Tafraoute to Taghazout. We’d fallen for the charm of Tafraoute (a remote mountain village high in the Anti-Atlas), but it was time to leave. However, we needed to breakfast first, so we made our way to the formal dining area of our hotel (Chez Amaliya) and enjoyed tea, orange juice, yoghurt, msemen (flaky Moroccan flatbread), khobz (traditional round bread), boiled eggs and honey. We had a long day of travel ahead. We were descending from the Anti-Atlas on route to the Atlantic coast, so we loaded our packs into the minibus and left Tafraoute at 9am. As we started winding our way through the mountain roads, I was drawn to the Anti-Atlas peaks towering above us. They ... read more
anti-atlas mountains
anti-atlas mountains
anti-atlas mountains




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