"Twinkling" is an "American situation". That is, according to this guy, Shafie, who I am teaching Spanish in exchange for Arabic and French, and who occasionally tells me with the sincerest most curious smile to read the Qu'ran ("it will improve you"...just by reading it; this, I think, is a distinctive Muslim belief [good for illiterate peoples, by the way, which Mohammed was, or people who don't speak Arabic, which most Muslims don't]...that is, that it can almost physically change you without your understanding it), who works at L' Hotel Majestic, where we stayed the first week, and who eat
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