Blogs from Fes, Fès-Boulemane, Morocco, Africa

We are now in a luxury riad, but still paying 50 euros/night....the staff here is wonderful: much laughter and helpfulness! We spent time on the roof terrace today, then in a rooftop restaurant, and then hiked up to the ruins of the tombs on a hill outside the walls. In between, we walked through the Medina again and visited the largest merdersa, which is one of the few places in the country where non-Muslims can enter a building that is still used for prayer. After our hike up the hill, I returned alone to the Medina, strolling down one of the main passageways, and wandering off into some of smaller side streets and squares. I ended up at the henna square, which we had visited yesterday. It was once the site of the first psychiatric hospital ... read more

We first saw them last night as we walked to our riad from the gate of the Medina...cats everywhere! Today, as we stolled the medina and souks, cats prowled the edges of the streets and kittens rolled out under our feet. The Moroccans hold them in affection, it appears...one would sleep in our room in Marrakech, and the restaurant where we ate lunch today had several cats, from an old tomcat to a tiny kitten. There was a sleek grey one that looked like a young Betty. People feed them scraps and most look healthy. We have seen few dogs in Morocco, and only one small puppy today, since dogs are considered unclean by Muslims. We spent most of the day exploring the Medina of old Fes...and didn't get lost! I was here last about 36 ... read more

" Se perdre à Fès est le début du plaisir " 9 mars Toujours à Meknès Une tourterelle en chaleur roucoule derrière la fenêtre grillagée vis-à-vis ma tête de lit. Le soleil n'est pas encore levé que l'oiseau cherche à se faire aimer dans l'oranger. Dites-moi, ça se mange de la tourterelle en tajine? Je quitte Meknès en train pour rejoindre Fès, une autre importante Cité Impériale. Ce n'est qu'un 45 minutes pour m'y rendre. Le soleil est maintenant sorti et fait évaporer les accumulations d'eau sur les routes. L'humidité colle aux vêtements. La chaleur reprend le dessus sur les derniers jours de pluie, mais personne ici n'enlève de couches. Manteaux de cuir, cotton ouatté et chandails de laine pour les hommes, grands voiles pour les femmes, et jeans et pull pour la jeunesse. Quelques voyageurs ... read more

Finally here in just about 1 piece...Train to Brussels, bus to Charleroi, Ryanair to Fes..pouring rain..... and cold not at all what was expected of Africa...I know, I know, I know...it is not monolithic...First contact with overland truck is not encouraging, they are in the medina and we cannot find them or so they say......we must find a place for the night. I feel like Joseph in Bethlehem, dragging my donkey with pregnant Mary past closed doors in the dark, through the winding alleys of Fes. Finally a Riad! Of course the usual let's take advantage of the foreigners ensues..overcharging is rife in Morocco, my recommendation always book accomodation online...We end up dragging our bags back down the stairs as the room we are given for 70 euros has 1 bed and a crib....they are insistent ... read more

Fes, is probably the second most touristy city in Morocco, behind Marrakech. It's Medina quickly demonstrates why this is so and even though I was harrassed, followed, threatened and treated to a disturbing scene while walking its nooks and crannies, it still managed to impress and beguile me. The most disturbing scene I saw while in Morocco took place in Fes' Medina, whereby I saw a group of Africans being surrounded, pushed and prodded and yelled at. From memory, there were about 5 very scared looking Africans that were carrying somebody who was clearly unconscious. It looked like they were pleading with the much more numerous crowd of franatically gesturing Arabs around them to let them pass. I have no idea what happened as at the time I didn't want to get any closer to the ... read more