Blogs from Madagascar, Africa - page 16

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Africa » Madagascar June 22nd 2012

22.6. Wir machen einen Ausflug auf den Canal des Pangalanes. Die Franzosen haben vor hundert Jahren natürliche Flussläufe mit künstlichen Kanälen verbunden und dadurch eine Wasserstrasse von mehr als 600km geschaffen. Heute sind grosse Teile davon verlandet, einige Strecken sind aber noch intakt und werden von der Dorfbevölkerung genutzt, um Waren in die Stadt zu transportieren. Der Kanal verläuft mehr oder weniger parallel zur Küste, ist aber mit den Pirogen viel einfacher zu befahren. Wir sehen denn auch allerlei Boote: Fischerpirogen, Bambusflosse, Lastkahne, Schifftaxis, meist bis wenige Zentimeter unter den Rand mit Leuten, Holz, Kohle, Gemüse und Fisch beladen. Das Ufer ist gesäumt von Palmen, Bananenstauden, Eukalyptus, Schilf und vielen anderen Pflanzen. Im Wasser schwimmen Wasserhyazinthen und Fischfallen. Zwischendurch fahren wir an Dörfern vorbei wo uns Kinder und Wasc... read more
CP2
CP3
CP4

Africa » Madagascar June 21st 2012

Ich möchte wieder einmal allen herzlich danken, die uns schreiben, sei es hier via Blog oder per Mail – es ist immer eine Freude, von zu Hause zu lesen! Auch wenn wir fast keine Mails beantworten – das nähme schlicht zu viel Zeit in Anspruch – wir schätzen es sehr. Die letzte Woche haben wir im Paradies verbracht, Ferien vom Reisen, sozusagen: 14.6. Um 5.30h werden wir abgeholt, die Kinder meinen, im Hotel gehe das früh-Aufstehen wesentlich besser als im Zelt. Gemeinsam mit einer amerikanischen Familie und einem Franzosen fahren wir im Minibus nach Ivango, 150km nördlich von Tamatave. Weil die Strasse in schlechtem Zustand ist dauert die Fahrt dennoch dreieinhalb Stunden, wir verschlafen aber alle einen guten Teil davon. Am Hafen müssen wir uns sage und schreibe drei Mal registrieren, bis die jeweiligen Beamten unsere ... read more
Ausblick Bungalow
Kiki - das Haustier
unsere Bucht

Africa » Madagascar June 8th 2012

Ich habe nur kurz was zu Prahlen: Unsere Foto "Abendtrunk Giraffen" aus dem Etosha-Park wurde von Travelblog als "Photo of the week" ausgezeichnet! http://www.travelblog.org/Topics/31647-1.html Wir sind uns nicht einig, wer die Foto damals gemacht hat... Wir sind heute in Antananarivo, Madagaskar, angekommen und haben bei einem Spaziergang einen ersten Eindruck gewonnen: sehr viel Abgas, sehr viele Leute, aber eine reizvolle Mischung aus afrikanischer und südostasiatischer Atmospäre. Und tolles Essen! Mehr sicher bald, ganz liebe Grüsse an Euch alle, wir vermissen Euch!... read more

Africa » Madagascar » Antananarivo January 12th 2012

I. Hot Returning to Toliara after a blissful New Year’s getaway in Ambola was a slight shock to the system. Gone were the gentle sea breezes and dry air; here was the sticky heat and humidity of the tropics (well, the Tropic of Capricorn does run just south of the city!). How could the climate be so different in spots so close together, relatively speaking? But I’d been wondering that since arriving in Madagascar in mid-December. We ended up having almost two full days in Toliara, doing little besides resting, as Abby was recovering from a bout of illness. But it is somnolent sort of town anyway. It’s the kind of place were people retreat into the shade and take a siesta during the heat of the afternoon. And when you are out and about, rather ... read more
Pousse-Pousse Traffic
Lonely Pousse-Pousse
Setting Sun on Toliara

Africa » Madagascar » Toliara January 6th 2012

Bruno, the tatted up Marseillais instructor, guided me to the edge, and then with a gentle push we began a slow descent along the Technicolor wall of corals, vibrant fish darting in and out of the crevices and waving sea fans. My nose skimmed inches above the bright textures.And all I could think: “Why have I never done this before?!” Twenty minutes later, as we gradually ascended, the strange underwater world I had been nose-to-nose with began to slip away and the shimmer of the sun on the ocean surface began to come into view. I lost all sense of up and down for a moment. I also had no sense of how deep we had plunged. When we broke the surface, the instructor pointed at me and said: “Seize mètres!” “Seize mètres?” Really? 16 meters? ... read more
Pirogue Port in Toliara
Facilities
Preparing to Load Up

Africa » Madagascar » Ranomafana National Park January 3rd 2012

We must be gluttons for punishment. After wrapping up a blissful few days of lazing about in Morondava - taking a gander at some baobabs and lemurs, walking along the quiet beach, eating fantastic seafood, etc. – we were preparing to take ANOTHER taxi-brousse back into interior Madagascar. I think we rationalized it by saying “at least we aren’t going all the way back to Tana – we are just going to Antsirabe…” In theory, the journey should have taken ten hours. However, almost from the moment we started, we knew that this was going to take a bit longer – and was going to be even more uncomfortable than our first epic taxi-brousse journey. We had hardly left the station when we began stopping what seemed to be every 100 meters or so to either ... read more
Pre-Departure Snack
Loading the Motorcyle..Yes, the Motorcycle!
Heading to Market...I think...

Africa » Madagascar January 3rd 2012

I knew that Madagascar was a big island – usually classified as the fourth largest in the world.* However, I have been constantly amazed on this trip at just what an amazing variety of landscapes and ecosystems are found on this natural Noah’s Ark. While the length of some our taxi-brousse “adventures” have been equivalent to flying from North America to, say, India (shout out to Werner for pointing this out), the time it takes to travel often belies the short geographic distances covered. And the change that can be observed in these short distances is sometimes nothing short of startling. After a couple days in the cool humidity of Ranomafana National Park, surrounded by dripping, lush rainforest full of lemurs and leeches, we continued on, heading southwards. At first this took us back into the ... read more
Mural in Fianar
Haute-Ville Fianar
Not So Flattering...

Africa » Madagascar December 26th 2011

The reason I came to Madagascar, like so many others, was to see lemurs and baobabs (and so forth), so it was a no brainer that Abby and I would make the long journey from Antananarivo to Morondava. Although an easy hop by plane, we were on a bit of a budget and the domestic flights, while convenient, were pricy.* So taxi-brousse (bush taxi) it was – 15 hours, overnight (see previous entry - I may need therapy soon). However, once we stumbled out of the cramped confines of the mini-bus and met Riga, the taxi-driver who would become our go-to guy for driving around the area, I knew the pain of the trip was going to be worth it. I sensed immediately that I was going to like this sleepy little seaside town called Morondava. ... read more
Empty Beach
A Fixer-Upper
Local School Bus

Africa » Madagascar December 21st 2011

The baby’s head pressed firmly into my ribcage; the mother kept cracking her own head sharply on my bony shoulder, though this didn’t seem to disturb her sleep. Abby dozed fitfully against the window on the opposite side. Our bags were crammed in around our feet. There was no way I could move. And all I could see in front of me, out the tax-brousse’s windshield was blackness and the occasional rushing of oncoming headlights. The CD of Malagasy covers of Christmas carols – including several of “Angels We Have Heard on High” (where did they find a Malagsy-Latin dictionary to translate “Gloria in excelsis Deo”?) - went into its 100th rotation…. I thought I was going to start hallucinating. All this to see some trees? *** Distances are deceptive almost anywhere in Africa... read more
Station in Sepia
Piling it up!
Abby, waiting.  And waiting.

Africa » Madagascar » Antananarivo December 18th 2011

Let me just say it from the outset, because I know so many of you are going to ask: no, there are no singing and dancing lions, giraffes, or other such animated fauna populating Madagascar.Alas, there aren’t even any lemurs belting out “I like to move it, move it.” It’s sort of a sad fact that Madagascar really only came to be a household name after the Disney film was released. My interest in the country, however, long predates that bit of musical cinematic magic. The childhood biologist in me has longed to see this utterly unique island from the moment I encountered images of its strange and wonderful wildlife and plants in a National Geographic article. It looked like another planet, so I just had to go. It turned out Abby, my fellow history teacher ... read more
Mt. Kilimanjaro on your right...
Flashback Drive
A Very Cute Welcome




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