Blogs from Madagascar, Africa - page 18

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Africa » Madagascar February 19th 2011

Allo allo! Un petit salut d’ici pour vous laisser savoir que tout va bien et que je suis belle et bien en forme. On a eu un peut peur a cause des renseignements qu’il allait avoir un cyclone mais on est chanceux et ca a l’aire comme quand ca arrive ici ca ne va pas être plus que des vents un petit peu plus vite que normale et un petit peu de pluie. Autre que ca j’adore beaucoup ca… je plonge deux fois par jour (sauf cette semaine a cause de tout le vent on ne plonge pas) et dans l’après midi on fait des études ou on apprend le malagasy ou on lit. C’est vraiment mais vraiment merveilleux ici. Je m’habitue encore à la nourriture… beaucoup de ris et encore plus de bines. Je commence ... read more

Africa » Madagascar » Antsiranana December 30th 2010

Christmas is a bit of a turn around one for us, unpacking from our last trip and organising for the next. It's very quiet on the streets of Diego with all the shops closed, the locals in their Sunday best and lots off to church. We celebrate with a restaurant lunch of chicken, mashed potatoes and green beans and even splash out on some dessert. It's great to chat on the phone with family back home and hear about their Christmas day thousands of miles away. Luckily by the time evening rolls around the market is bustling again and we stock up on supplies and pack for a few days camping in Ankarana National Park. Next morning our trusty guide, Laudea, arrives, we fill a couple of large water containers and locate a taxi-brousse heading in ... read more
Up close and personal
Large scary scorpion
Dry forest

Africa » Madagascar » Antsiranana December 24th 2010

We are all very keen to spend some time snorkelling and Keith wants to take a good look at some of Madagascar's marine critters. Off the far northwest coast, Nosy Hara (island of large rocks) is at the centre of one of the country's most remote marine reserves. We are heading there for a Robinson Crusoe style visit with our trusty side kick from Montagne d'Ambre, Laudea. We bump, slip and slide our way in the taxi-brousse for hours on a track filled with deep, muddy holes which we'd normally only attempt in a four wheel drive. Surprisingly we only have to get out to push once. When we arrive in the tiny fishing village of Ampasindava it's in the heat of the day, siesta time, and we eventually locate a captain who is willing to ... read more
In the village
Approaching Nosy Hara
The beautiful island

Africa » Madagascar » Antsiranana December 18th 2010

We're off to a roaring start. Bags packed for four day's camping, food bought at the market, appropriate taxi-brousse stop located, all very efficiently. Then it all comes to an abrupt halt. The 'imminent' arrival of the taxi-brousse actually occurs after three hours wait in the heat. Plenty of opportunity, then, to watch the comings and goings on the busy market corner. Eventually when the aging modified Peugeot 404 ute rattles in, our bags are thrown on top of the canopy and tied down. We're allocated the vazaha seats in the front while the locals pile onto the bench seats on the back. And we're off - on a few hours circuit around the town, that is. Picking up everything from bags of fertiliser to timber to corrugated iron. The taxi-brousse is positively groaning by the ... read more
Checked out by a Sandford's Brown lemur
Le Petit Lac
The adventurer

Africa » Madagascar » Antsiranana December 13th 2010

Diego Suarez, or 'Dago' to the locals, is the major town in the far North of Madagascar and the base for our travels for the next few weeks. Though its not particularly attractive in itself its handy to lots of beautiful beaches and some interesting National Parks. To get there from the capital you can spend two days in a taxi-brousse (bush taxi) on the bumpy roads, but an hour on the plane sounds like a pretty good option at this stage. From the plane it appears that there's far less natural forest in this country than we expected, so we hope the national parks and reserves are providing sufficient refuge for the vast array of interesting and unusual species that we'd like to see. Diego is perched on the edge of the sea and our ... read more
lunch
Dinner
Papa Noel!

Africa » Madagascar » Antananarivo December 11th 2010

Another late arrival sees us haggling yet again over a taxi fare, this time in French outside Antananarivo's Ivato airport. We settle on 30,000. Sound a little expensive? Fortunately we're dealing in Ariary and 10,000Ar is about NZ$7. At this time of night its a fair price to the central city. We're staying in the slightly seedy part of Haute-Ville and apart from a few girls of the night on the street its pretty quiet. Madagascar was a French colony and along with the language it has obviously retained various other aspects of French life. Old Renault taxis and baguettes are everywhere. We catch one (taxi that is) to the Rova, an old Royal palace on a hilltop overlooking the city. Unfortunately its closed for renovations but we get an informative guided tour of the local ... read more
The Rova
The beautiful Lac Anosy
The not quite so beautiful Lac Anosy

Africa » Madagascar November 2nd 2010

Madagascar is like playing tennis with a lefthanded opponent. Everything looks as usual, till you realize something is completely different. We drive across a savannah, looking for animals. But there no are antilopes staring at us, wiggling their tails to warn eachother, no wildebeasts showing their horns in defense and even no guineafowls, running in front of the wheels of the car. Madagascar is completely different from the mainland. Even the trees are different. In stead of acacia's with their flattened canopy's we see majestic Bismarck palms and the strangest trees ever: Baobabs. But why is nature so lefthanded? We have two weeks to find it out during our trip thoughout an Island as big as the countries we travelled across in East Africa. In these two weeks we will bridge a distance of more than ... read more
Looking for treefrogs
Rice paddy
Indri Lemur

Africa » Madagascar August 4th 2010

The plan was to go to Madagascar and go for a bike tour. Sounds simple enough, but before we get to the fun that was had, let’s look at things that might maybe considered red flags for this trip. * Ever done a bike tour before? Nope, I don't even bike commute. I've done some Mtn. Biking. Shoot the first time I ever put panniers on my bike was the day before my plane ride to Antananarivo. * That is ok, you are going with others right? Nope, just me, independent travel. * What are road conditions? Madagascar is known to have some of the worst condition roads for touring and transportation in general. Also my plan is to bike a road that is notoriously bad even by Madagascar standards. It is unpaved through the rain ... read more
Zebu Sunset
Coming down from the highlands
Indri Lemur

Africa » Madagascar » Antsirabe July 19th 2010

On our journey North we spend a night in Ambositra. We visit the restaurant with the supposedly 'best' pizza in Madagascar, awful! We are also subjected to a Nigerian evangelical TV programme too, where the women scream as the devil takes over their body and they attack another woman! The weather has turned to rain so we don't do much in this town. It is famous for crafts so I buy a silk scarf but then we continue North. We visit Lake Tritriva, this is supposed to be naturally the shape of Madagascar. There is a Malaasy legend that two love crossed lovers drowned themselves in the lake and many people come to perform sacrifices. While we are there we see a sacrifice where a couple are praying for their newborn baby, they have a live ... read more
View from breakfast
Way to move wood
Rivo in our 4WD


Isalo to Ramonofana is a long, full day drive so we decide to set out early at 6am. Rivo must be used to that as he knows where to stop to get us breakfast in Ambalavao, and we also stop briefly to see his wife and son in Fianarantsoa. It's Andrew's birthday so we try to plan at least one activity other than driving and stay in a more luxurious room for the night, it has a door to the bathroom and hot water!! We have lunch in the hotel restaurant, Hotel Violette in Ambositra, but 3 of the main courses are not available and only one starter is. This is high season after all... We plan an evening walk which we are told will only be us, but the start point suddenly gets mobbed by ... read more
Hotel room balcony view
Mouse lemur!!
Photo 3




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