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Middle East » Syria » West » Hama September 18th 2008

Early start to get to the bus station when arrived though there were no buses. One of the locals advised me that the bus station had moved to near the motorway so I had to get a service taxi. On the way I am sure that the driver tried to offer me his wife to which I politefully declined - arab hospitality is great but I think that is going a bit too far. As opposed to the nearly 2 hour wait in the Beirut bus station amongst the garbage and flies my 15 minute wait in air conditioned luxury was a joy to behold. The journey was 1 and a half hours to Hama and cost just over an English pound - even got a sweet. Booked into the Riad hotel and no sooner as ... read more
Me and Waterwheel
Even more waterwheels
More waterwheels

Middle East » Syria » West » Krak des Chevaliers September 18th 2008

I had another dreadful nights sleep about one hour in total so I was up and ready early for my trip To Crak des Chevaliers. I had paid 1800 Syrian pounds (around 20 English) for a taxi to Crak, after which I was to be taken to Homs to then gat a bus to Palmyra, by doing it this way I didn't have to stay in the Riad another night - result. Crak Des Chavaliers is a very well preserved crusader Castle whose walls have never been breached. In the 12th Century it was home to the Knights Hospitaliers - or monks with big swords which is what I like to call them. It used to house 2000 knights and controlled all the traffic from East to West. After visiting the Castle I got dropped in ... read more
The vaults
Battlements
Gothic Arches

Middle East » Syria » West » Krak des Chevaliers September 13th 2008

Der Verkehrsminister der Syrisch-Arabischen Republik hat erlassen: Die Strassenverkehrsordnung in alphabetischer Reihenfolger A) Abkuerzungen ueber Baustellen, die Gegenfahrbahn, Feldwege o.ae. sind grundsaetzlich erlaubt und erwuenscht. Ampeln: Besitzen drei Farben und leuchten. Sie dienen der Behinderung des Verkehrs. Autos, welche direkt an oder hinter der Haltelinie stehen, die bei rot-gelbem Licht noch stehen, stellen ebenso eine -Behinderung dar. Autos, welche in der Reihe dahinter stehen, haben erstere gnadenlos auszuhupen Arabische Straكenbilder geben ein schoenes Muster ab. Achtung Kamele! Mit ebenjenen ist ueberall auf der Fahrbahn stets zu rechnen. Autobahnen sind grundsaetzlich dreispurig, die Spur ganz rechts ist das, was einige Laender „Standstreifen“ nennen. Er eignet sich fuer -Motorraeder ebens... read more

Middle East » Syria » West » Hama August 18th 2008

The traumatic start to this weekend’s trip was our own doing! After successfully bartering down a taxi to the bus station to 100 SP for the first time ever, we found we had both forgotten our passports. You need them to buy tickets so we had to get a taxi home again to collect them!!! Once we got to Hama routine kicked in. We had another chicken shwarma from what we consider to be the best kebab stall in Syria. It didn’t disappoint. Then we took a taxi to the Riad Hotel where we were very lucky to get a room. They had already turned some people away but for privileged guests (well, we had stayed there once before!) they managed to find a room. This time we even had a balcony which was nice, especially ... read more
Tuk Tuk Trish
Atmospheric Waterwheels
Mosaic of the president

Middle East » Syria » West » Tartus July 27th 2008

Our Bradt Guide didn't paint a pretty picture of Tartous, the second biggest port in Syria. Nor did it recommend going to Arwad Island, the only piece of Syrian territory off shore. We thought we would go anyway and are really pleased we made the effort. Tartous isn't a pretty place but wandering through its streets it has a certain charm. Seeing the sea again was nice, but with the moisture of the Med comes cloud and humidity. The temperature was no lower than in Damascus but there wasn't a lot of sun. Still, it made it easier to walk around without feeling scorched all the time. On Friday we joined the hoardes and took a boat over to Arwad Island. It was a bit choppy to say the least, and one man had to be ... read more
Arwad Island
Old lady on the boat
Highest Point on Arwad Island

Middle East » Syria » West » Hama July 12th 2008

Hama is the fourth largest city in Syria. It took us just under three hours to get there from Damascus and we were instantly impressed by the chilled out feel to the place, delighted to find the most delicious chicken kebabs (so far) at the bus station, and very happy not to be ripped off by a taxi driver! We stayed at the Riad Hotel and when we return we will definitely stay there again. It was like a cross between a one star hotel and a backpacker hostel with excellent service, friendly staff, and other travellers to talk to! Our room had a great view towards the river and it's a shame we could only stay one night. The thing most people come to Hama to see is the collection of norias, or waterwheels. Unfortunately ... read more
Hotel Riad
Waterwheel
Waterwheel

Middle East » Syria » West » Krak des Chevaliers July 6th 2008

Our first trip out of Damascus was not without its difficulties! We took a taxi out to the main bus station for routes to the North of the country. Then we had to find the right bus - not an easy task with almost no Arabic!! Eventually we were on a 10am departure which left on time, moved about 10 yards, then spent 20 minutes crawling along to the police check area at the exit. Finally we were on our way through the hot sandy scenery for a couple of hours. That took us to Homs. The bus station at Homs was a little chaotic as we tried to find a minibus to “Krak des Chevaliers”. Someone offered us seats for 50p (about what we were expecting to pay) but it turned out to be a ... read more
Sunset at the Castle
Our Hotel
Battlements

Middle East » Syria » West » Krak des Chevaliers June 12th 2008

I’m currently sitting in a bus from Homs to Palyrma next to a woman in a full burka. She and about 7 men around us have been talking and smiling and pointing at me the whole ride. It really is as if they have never seen a foreigner or a laptop but I know that is doubtful. I took out my LP and used a few phrases, but that was pretty limited conversation. The are still having a blast though. One of them took pictures of me with the woman. They pull out their passports and point at line items to ask me what my birthday is an how old I am. Am I married? I have no idea what they are saying about me, but I think it’s happy and good. One guy pulled out ... read more
Crac des Chevaliers
Photo 26
woman

Middle East » Syria » West » Hama June 11th 2008

Where am I? Middle Eastern Country 1: I walk down the street and get called out at by about 17 men in 3 blocks. Some ask to kiss me. A plethora of random Japanese words are thrown at me. I think there may be more tourists than local people. I get a random kebab/gyro/shwarma off the street, it is not that great, and I pay the equivalent of a Big Mac meal. I get one square inch of baklava for a dollar. Streets can be very nice and manicured, people are in modern dress - am I really in the Middle East? My hostels have all modern ammenities but I pay 20 USD a night for a dorm room, and more for a single. I see some sights and get charged at least 8 USD per ... read more

Middle East » Syria » West » Krak des Chevaliers May 30th 2008

We left Palmyra as scheduled and headed for the village of Al Husn, about 225 km from Palmyra in the western part of the country. The village itself has nothing much to offer but is dominated by the Krak des Chevalier, likely the world's largest and most intact Crusader Fortress. It was built in the 12th century and has had a succession of tenants who added onto it; however it was only ever captured once. During the drive we got to know our new friends Laurent and Anne a bit better. By consulting both our travel guides, and having taken advice from the New Zealanders we met the day before, we decided on the Baiber Hotel, a tiny little inn with a view of the Krak. The Castle is at an altitude of about 1300 meters, ... read more
Syrian Royalty?
Baiber Hotel seen from Krak
Al Husn




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