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Asia » Sri Lanka » Central Province » Kandy January 4th 2006

ARRIVAL IN SRI LANKA: COLOMBO TO PERADENIYA Between changes in time zones, the date-line, and the disorienting long flights during which you sleep and eat at bizarre intervals, we were all suitably confused when we arrived in Colombo. By local time, it was very late at night, just past midnight. We all staggered around the airport, showing our Passports, waiting out lines, and changing U.S. dollars into rupees. Eventually we were through the maze and looking for our local transport. Several young Sri Lankans took us in hand, grabbed our American-sized suitcases, and shepherded us onto the bus which was to become our portable "home away from home" for the next three weeks. After more than 24 hours in transit, we still had another two hours or so to ride from Colombo to Peradeniya. Of course ... read more

Asia » Sri Lanka » Central Province » Peradeniya January 4th 2006

It is a little past midnight as we leave the airport and head towards Kandy. We still have several kilometers to travel before reaching our beds. The bus ride only gives us a narrow view of the countryside. Buildings line the street. We never seem to leave the buildings, mostly shops; still at two in the morning several of the shops are open. We stop to buy bottled water. A gas station is open. Several college students came down to the airport to meet us and help us with our luggage. This is our first chance to meet and talk with the people of Sri Lanka. At 4 AM the bus finally stops; the traveling is complete we have arrived at Mahakande Gal Bungalawa. The name means large rock house, built in the 1800s, and it ... read more
The Bungalawa
Siri - A wonderful cook and friend

Asia » Sri Lanka » Central Province » Kandy December 24th 2005

We arrived at the Days Inn, greeted by our host, Dan. A Sri Lankan who lives and works in Fort Worth, Texas, but has his home and small businesses in and around Kandy. A warmer welcome we couldn’t have wished for. The accommodation was perched high above the city on a hill, clad in rainforest, filled with monkeys and lots of bugs. Christmas Day!!!!!! Woohoo! We got up and had our breakfast then booked ourselves in for Christmas “Lunch” at the Earls Regency hotel in Kandy. We then gave each other our presents. Charmaine got a gorgeous pair of 18ct White gold and Semi Precious stone earrings and Darren got a piece of material about 4ft wide, and 10ft long, sewn together into a tube at the narrow ends, great! Just kidding, it was a traditional ... read more
Christmas Dinner 3
Christmas Dinner
Buddhist prayer lamps

Asia » Sri Lanka » Central Province » Ella December 6th 2005

I had chosen Ella as a stop because of the fantastic scenery. Most guesthouses a traveler could stay in provide wonderful views of dramatic, jutting green hills and the village looks past the imposing Ella Rock. The village itself is very quaint and described in the guidebook as the closest place in Sri Lanka to an English country village. The Ambiente guest house is on the west side of the village away from the majority of accommodation, which is to the south. It looks out on to Ella Gap and Little Rawana Ella Falls and my 1st sight from the balcony leading out from my room was the most spectacular I have ever seen in my life I arrived soon after Lunch and I had not eaten so I ordered some food and a Beer and ... read more
Dawn on the way to Horton Plains
Cloud forest at Horton Plains
Worlds End

Asia » Sri Lanka » Central Province » Kandy August 22nd 2005

I finished my lectures in Kandy, including my public lecture, which had to be rescheduled because no one showed up the first time. The only people who showed up the second time were students who were forced to come. Once upon a time something like that would have bothered me, but now I just shrug it off. To compensate, the director of the Institute arranged a little party for me at the faculty club, where we could avoid the alcohol ban imposed on Kandy during the week of the Perahera. Third World faculty clubs are my kind of scene: chalky, disillusioned academics slouched over their gin and tonics, bathed in the eerie blue glow of neon lighting, wondering where things went wrong. Even the mosquitoes seem too burned out to bite. I was impressed that both ... read more
Beer Crash 2
Anuradapura 1
Anuradapura 2

Asia » Sri Lanka » Central Province » Kandy August 14th 2005

The night after my last entry I slept under a tattered web of fevered dreams. A hot coal burned in my stomach and I shook convulsively. Fortunately, I have been accepted as the fifth member of the Udugamma family, weird uncle Jon from California. I stay with them when I'm in Kandy. Ananda, the father, received his MD from UC Davis. He now has me on a course of antibiotics. My fever is gone but I haven't eaten anything except bananas for days. I made a noble effort to conduct my lectures, but with frequent bathroom breaks. +++++ Following my advice Ananda's son will be attending college in the US this fall. To ensure success, Ananda decided to hold an alms-giving ceremony. He invited several priests from the local monastery. The preparations were intense. When everything ... read more
Around Kandy 2
Around Kandy 3
Around Kandy 4

Asia » Sri Lanka » Central Province » Kandy August 11th 2005

Colombo-Kandy Railroad Haiku Rattling through jungles Heads bouncing like souvenir dolls Lost in sad thoughts +++++ I can feel the proximity of the jungle in Kandy. Monkeys scramble across my roof, the bird calls that wake me in the morning sound like auditions for a Tarzan movie, and there are columns of ants streaming across every wall. Even if Buddhists were allowed to use ant traps (and they aren't,) this isn't a problem you solve, it's a problem you learn to live with. In my last entry I asked Asia to swallow me whole. This turned out to be a lesson in being careful what I ask for. Asia is a giant organism, a turbulent flow of people, cows, mangy dogs, rickshaws, and dilapidated buses. It's not enough to go with the flow; I must also ... read more
Addipuram 2
Addipuram 3
Addipuram 4




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