Blogs from Tierra del Fuego, Argentina, South America
A visit to the Yamana Museo in Ushuaia provided us with a little insight into the life of the four indigenous peoples of the surrounding area; the Yamana, Ona, Hausch, and Alacalufe. The two things which stood out for us was one group of people who lived almost entirely on their tree bark canoes which included building fires in their canoes to cook with and to keep warm by. Another group wore no clothes and in order to keep warm and “dry” from the torrential rain they covered their bodies in animal fat. This would make sense to me if the winter temperatures did not dip below 15 degrees (Leigh says 25 degrees!) but the average temperatures range from 1.6 °C in the winter to 10.4 °C in the summer. Amazing! The afternoon boat trip into ... read more
Taking the Washing for a Walk
Published: April 16th 2012South America » Argentina » Tierra del Fuego » UshuaiaOur first full day in Ushuaia, the southernmost city in the world, had Leigh leaving our accommodation at 8:15 am to chase a trophy trout while I contemplated a quiet Sunday. I decided to catch up on some washing. At 12:30 pm, braving the sweltering 5° temperature, I set off in search of the laundromat with my washing stuffed tightly into my backpack. Despite being wrapped in more layers than yesterday and wearing my warmest leather gloves, the cold began to creep in. It wasn't long before I began to regret my decision not to buy the warm carpincho and beaver gloves I tried in Buenos Aires earlier in the week. "Cute beaver?" I hear you ask in a dramatic tone ... In 1946 Argentina's military rulers decreed Ushuaia should become the base for a fur ... read more
Fishing But Not Catching, Ushuaia
Published: April 23rd 2012South America » Argentina » Tierra del Fuego » TolhuinTwelve hours flying to Argentina, four hours flying south to Tierra del Fuego, one hour’s drive on the highway, one hour’s drive off road, and then a thirty minute walk. It is fair to say that anticipation had built up. A private lake and I was the only fisherman. The guide had brought along a photographer to capture the thrills of Magico Lake for their website. Expectations were high. I had made contact with Extreme Fishing from New Zealand and confirmed arrangements. Ushuaia is a pretty town of 60,000 people set against a mountain range. We headed out through the mountains at first light; a very pretty ride. Sergio liked to use all the road cutting the corners and driving across double yellow lines or putting two wheels onto the gravel on the inside of the ... read more
El fin de Mundo - The End of The World!!!
Published: April 6th 2012South America » Argentina » Tierra del Fuego » UshuaiaHi Everyone, So after the briefest of stops in Buenos Aires I met up with my crew for the start of Patagonia Experience, we headed out early on the 29th of march, we had a long day of travelling out of the city and heading south, stopping for lunch at a service station, and heading on to our first camp site, which was not the most idyllic, right off main highway beside big station stop for other truckers! It was noisy, fairly dodgy looking but it had toilet facilities, so we set up our tents and our guide Alahandro got our supper started, the master truck being equipped with a full kitchen as well as comfy seats! seating around chatting and eventually to bed, a fitful night's sleep followed, with an early start the next day. ... read more
Walking on Penguin Island. Can It Possibly Be Better?
Published: March 18th 2012South America » Argentina » Tierra del Fuego » UshuaiaToday was an early morning. I was up so early that I even had time for coffee and a quick breakfast at the hotel before my taxi arrived to take me down to the docks. What an absolutely amazing trip this was today. Only 80 people per day are allowed on the Penguin Island, or Rookery, and in groups of 20 at a time. We drove in a mini bus for about an hour. Along the way we stopped to take some pictures of the trees that grow sideways. I don´t have the name of them with me, but the guide told us that they are the symbol of Patagonia. And wow are they incredible. Ok, I found out that they are called banner trees. After the bus, we were loaded on a small Zodiac type ... read more
Today was a bit of a surprise. I knew it was raining out when I woke up, but I didn't realize how ugly the weather was. My boat trip was cancelled due to the weather, which meant I had only a few minutes to make the decision to take a taxi to the Train to the End of the World. I made it on time, but was shocked that it was snowing. In the first couple pictures, you can see snow on my coat and outdoors. What a change from the humid 90 degree days of Rio and Iguazu. I am now glad that I packed all of the extra warm clothes. Who is the rookie traveler now with 2 suitcases? Not me, I was warm, dry and happy. The train was a nice ride up ... read more
My 4 Year TB Birthday from the End of the World
Published: March 17th 2012South America » Argentina » Tierra del Fuego » UshuaiaToday marks my 4 year birthday of being a Travel Blogger. It wasn´t planned, but I am celebrating it from Ushuaia, the End of the world, aka Southernmost City of the World. Now, please bear with me, because although this incredible hotel does have WIFI, it is not strong enough for me to use, so I will try to do my best on a hotel computer. Please ignore any typos or oddities. I was looking back today and thinking about my view of travel when I first joined TB. My first trip to Europe was approaching and I really thought that it was going to be my only trip abroad. It was going to be the one I looked back on when I was old (ok, so much older than I already am) and think, wow, ... read more
In Ushuaia, Argentina, the slums are above the rest of the city. There is a visible line where it changes; the last paved street runs horizonatally and muddy dirt roads branch off up the hill. The higher you get, the worse off the roads and houses are. Eventually, it gets so muddy that wooden pallets are put down in the hopes of making trails, and corrugated sheets of metal piled for bridges, attempts that fail as mud and dirty water is everywhere. Mutts and unleashed, free dogs run around, growling and barking if you come near, and they aren't the kind type of dogs you can pet; if you get too close, you will be attacked. I was bit on the back of the leg by a bastardly dog, but luckily it wasn't serious. I had ... read more
Ushuaia- just lovely!
Published: February 13th 2012South America » Argentina » Tierra del Fuego » UshuaiaWith a 3.30am start we were on the road to Ushuaia the most southern city in the world and we have a passport stamp to prove it!!!A quick £10 trek to BA City's airport Jorge Newbery from out hostel. All's really quiet on the roads and then you descend on mayhem!!!!!! Welcome to a city airport at 4.45am on a Monday morning........ We managed to check in at the self service so thought we'd be in for a quick bag drop...... Well.... You know what thought did..... An hour later we've managed it and are rushing though customs for our flight....no need really as our flight was due to leave at 6.20am and we finally departed the run way at 7.45am..... Apparently a common occurrence with Aer... read more
Our final Chilean destination was Punto Arenas. The main tourist attraction here are the Magellanic penguin colonies. Marco was convinced that they are exactly the same as the Jackass penguins. Either way, we decided to give this sightseeing trip a skip and rather went to the Naval Museum. Among other things, we watched an entertaining video of a sailboat that sailed around Cape Horn in the 1950s. The cameraman gave a blow by blow account of the happenings en route. We had thought of doing a remote hike to the southernmost point of mainland South America, but a look at the weather report changed our minds. We visited an interesting cemetery though: large burial vaults/houses dedicated to families. As per our tradition, we went out for a final dinner to reminisce our Chilean experiences. We both ... read more


































