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South America » Argentina » Tierra del Fuego » Ushuaia
November 20th 2022
Published: November 20th 2022
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On Friday we had a free day in Buenos Aires. I had one mission in mind, to head to La Boca to buy some shoes. My all time favourite shoes were bought there 8 years ago and I have had them repaired and they are still going strong. Before that we went out about 9am and walked along the riverbank. We spotted the Casa Rosada in the distance. It was a pleasant sunny morning and the restaurants were being prepared for the lunchtime opening. We returned to the hotel where wet had to have an information session and a Covid test. The venue for the information was changed without anyone telling us but we found it with the help of one of the managers. On the 5th floor we gathered and Lola the guide told us about arrangements for getting to the airport and thence to our ship.. We were not thrilled to find that our departure time to Ushuaia for the next day was 4-30am. We then went to the next room where we had a RAT and were told to come back in an hour for the result and hopefully the certificate giving us the all clear to board the ship.

This done we whiled away the hour in the lobby bar and returned to receive our clean bill of health! Then we headed out. It took a while but the concierge eventually got us a taxi and we headed along the busy streets to La Boca. This is my favourite part of BA. It is very touristy but is the colourful suburb where Italian immigrants settled and the houses are all painted bright colours and have funny statues appearing from windows.It also has many souvenir shops and restaurants where there are tango dancers and singers for entertainment. We stopped at one, Mojo Alejandro, and sat at a table right next to the stage. The dancers were excellent and the singer, an older lady was superb. We ordered the meat grill for 2 with salad and chips and were highly entertained by the tango couple. We were pleasantly surprised with the steaks that were brought out on a grill, as unlike our prior experience, they were still pink in the middle, not well done. Very tender and juicy, we washed them down with a bottle of rose.



We then went looking for my shoes. There were only a few stores with anything like them. Eventually we found some with a variety of styles and colours. I couldn't decide between two so I bought both of them. They were far more expensive than previously but that was 8 years ago. Happy that I had accomplished my mission we returned by taxi to the hotel for a short rest. As we had to get up early we went out about 6 for something to eat. Along the river they were holding jet ski races so we decided on the Chana cafe and sat there to watch . As we had had a large lunch we tried for lighter dishes for tea. Fletcher opted for fajitas and I chose a chicken sandwich. They were not what we expected. Fletcher's were more like quesadillas while my sandwich turned out to be a large chicken breast, smothered with melted bright yellow cheese atop guacamole, between two round tortillas. The chicken was dry and not very palatable, so I gave up on it very quickly. We had another bottle of the excellent Argentinian rose while Fletcher enjoyed some of the fajitas. When they cleared the table I told them I couldn't eat the chicken because it was dry and after some time an English speaking manager appeared and I repeated my tale. Eventually, they said they would not charge me for my meal. We returned to the hotel, finished packing and then to sleep about 9-30pm.

We woke about 3-10am and got up and dressed. We had left our suitcases for collection outside our room the night before so we only had our hand luggage. We went down to the lobby a little before 4am and then were invited into the dining room for a full buffet breakfast. After that we piled onto Bus 6 and set out for the airport. It took about an hour to get there so we were through security and through to our boarding gate just before 6. Our flight didn't leave until 7-40 so we had a long wait in the crowded and chaotic waiting area. Finally, we were asked to board, according to the Zone on our boarding pass and as we were Zone 1 we were one of the first on which meant we were right at the back of the plane. We were flying Aerolinaeus and it was a charter flight just for Hurtigruten passengers.

The flight took 3 and a bit hours and we were given another breakfast which was substantial. Jackie, the lady in the window seat, told me that her luggage had gone missing. She thinks someone stole it between the bus and her hotel room when she arrived. Poor lady had only the clothes she was wearing and all her cold weather gear was gone. I was horrified, and she was worrying . Even though insurance will cover it she was facing buying a whole new wardrobe and suitcase in Ushuaia!

It was a sunny day when we landed and were soon on a bus into the city. Ushuaia is the southernmost city in the world and was built mainly by convicts in the 1930s. It was not well populated though until the "80s when tourism, especially to Antarctica, became popular. It is set against the backdrop of the snow-capped Andes and though a little run down has some interesting buildings. We were dropped off near the port and were given time to explore. We walked up to the main street and looked at the shops etc. We decided on a place to eat, Moustacchio's, and though we did not want much were lured by the reference to King Crab. This is a specialty in this part of Patagonia. We ordered from the starters list, some fried squid and King Crab pies. Again another tasty rose went nicely with the food. The squid was disappointing, too much batter and overcooked, but the crab pies, (or pasties) were delicious. We spent a very happy hour or so there. It was a popular restaurant, with plenty of clients.

We went back to the waterfront and the bus about 3 as instructed and then we boarded our ship, the MS Fridtjof Nansen, one of the Hurtigruten line. We are in cabin 433 and it is very comfortable, with all the faclities needed. Our luggage was already in the cabin and we settled in nicely. We explored the ship and did the essentials like downloading the Hurtigruten App for all the info and daily program and booking for meals etc. We also bought the premium drinks package as wine with meals is included but not predinner drinks etc. We set sail at 7pm while we were in the dining room. The Aune restaurant is a buffet style, with plenty of choice and tasty options. We have already met a few fellow passengers so friendly chats were in order. I felt sorry for a younger guy, sitting by himself, looking very lonely. It wasn't proper for me to speak first so Fletcher went over for a chat. His name is Marcus and he is Swedish. I joined them and we had a great conversation.

We then went up to the Explorer lounge on the 10th floor, the top of the ship. There we had a couple of G&Ts while again chatting to other guests. Jackie had managed to buy herself the right clothes and was looking much happier. After a pleasant night we retired to bed and slept very well.


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