Phoenix Rising from the Ash They say the third time's a charm, but all three of my visits to Bariloche have been charmed. This time, I would celebrate my birthday on top of a mountain (again), climb up most of the mirador/viewpoints around this very scenic city, revisit my favorite trails, chocolate shop and friends and eat a chunk of the world's largest egg--yum! When I'd last visited in autumn's May, I'd left a day pack with my hostel friends with plans to return in a week or two. However, the Chilean Volcano Puyehue, just over the border, erupted as I was about to return. It blanketed the Argentine Lake District in up to 2 feet of lung-choking ash, and I changed direction. It would be nine months before I'd return--oops. While the ash had been
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