In our travels in New Zealand so far we hadn't encountered much of the Maori population, in fact in the South Island we hadn't encountered much of any population at all. But as we headed North the human presence increased, and historical significance of the Maori people became more evident. We left Wellington and drove to Tongariro National Park where we hoped to climb within this volcanic region, perhaps even to the top of Mt Ngurahoe (aka Mt Doom). The land within this National Park was gifted to the New Zealand government by a local iwi (tribe) in 1887, who saw this to be the only way to preserve an area of spiritual significance. We were looking forward to the hiking, but unfortunately over night the weather took a down turn, clouds clogged the sky and
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