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Middle East » Iran » East » Yazd October 6th 2008

We arrive in Yazd early on Friday morning. Pat and Christina decide to join me in meeting up with Mansour. While waiting for him to arrive we meet a couple from Geelong who are cycling through Iran. We all find it odd that five Australians are standing at a roundabout in a town in the middle of the desert in Iran at eight o'clock in morning. Mansour and Maria arrive and the first question he asks is "why would you want to come to Yazd? Its shit". This is a reassuring comment from our supposed guide. We dump our bags in one of the awesome hotels and after breakfast go on a walking tour of the old city. And its a very old city, allegedly 7000 years old. We see the qanats and water storage tanks, ... read more

Middle East » Iran » East » Mashhad October 2nd 2008

Reza is working, so he leaves me with his friend Mehrdad. Mehrdad and his taxi driver brother Mehdi come to collect me and after a sneaky lunchtime tea (behind closed doors so as not to offend the masses) we head to the Holy Shrine of Imam Reza. Apparently he was a pretty popular bloke because the sheer size of the Haram is unbelievable. After much confusion (since alot of the site is off-limits to non-muslims) we are allowed in and are ushered to the Islamic Relations Office and Foreign Pilgrims Affairs, where I am bombarded with Islamic propaganda by friendly staff. The museums are interesting, my favourite exhibit being the ode to nuclear power - a sculpture of two hands holding a radioactive cannister, with jars of each element displayed underneath...... contra-versial. So, its Tuesday morning ... read more

Middle East » Iran » East » Yazd July 1st 2008

Yazd is a small oasis city in southern central Iran, in the middle of the desert. The landscape during the journey from Esfahan did not look like it changed much in seven hours, though admittedly I was not looking out of the window all the time, allowing the bus to rock me to sleep.The city's water comes from underground qanats miles away in the mountains. Here the women are almost exclusively dressed in chadors and the men a little too friendly! The weather is hot, hot at 35 degrees C, but as a dry heat was bearable as long as you were not too Gilbert and Sullivan about it. Water ran everywhere though. And, like all over Iran, many street corners have their water cisterns where you can refill your water bottle. It is fine to ... read more

Middle East » Iran » East » Yazd June 8th 2008

We arrived in Yazd from Isfahan on the 6th June. The bus journey was good, a nice air conditioned very punctual bus. We're staying at Kohan Kashana traditional hotel, which means courtyards, fountains and general lovely atmosphere, all for 300,000 rials a night (twin room, inc. breakfast, en suite). I've managed to get ill, by eating a camel burger on the 6th. Severe stomach cramps and all the usual food poisoning joy followed, until finally last night I decided I'd better go to a doctor (the LP says to seek medical attention immediately if suffering abdominal pain as well as, erm, bad stomach-ness). We duly headed off, saw a doctor who spoke just about enough English, and then went to find a pharmacy. He had prescribed a syrup to treat the actual bug, some fairly strong ... read more

Middle East » Iran » East » Yazd November 26th 2007

Well, we’re currently sitting on a carpeted platform (divan sort of thing?) and sipping tea in the central courtyard of our hotel in Yazd. It’s a beautifully restored house in the middle of the old city, covered by a huge tent which diffuses the light and protects the central pond and cluster of bougainvillea, banana and orange trees. If there was a setting for Persian opulence and decadence, this is it… Yazd is superb. One of the most ancient cities in the world, the old city comprises of a myriad of narrow mud brick alleyways running off in all directions. It’s so easy to get lost, but I suppose that’s half the fun, wandering down these ancient laneways and suddenly appearing in a courtyard or public square. The people are excruciatingly friendly, the food is sublime ... read more

Middle East » Iran » East » Yazd October 21st 2007

Hopefully these will buy me some more time to procrastinate on my Iranian blog... but seriously, how do you summarize Iran in a few hundred words or less? So.. How was Iran? Riiight. All photos are courtesy (and property) of "Big Dan X".... read more
Watch It!
Trend-Setting
Rooftop in Yazd

Middle East » Iran » East » Mashhad October 2nd 2007

Incompetent employees make us stay one more week in Iran Although we thought that we wouldn’t write you anymore from Iran… we have to spend an unexpected additional week in (very religious) Mashhad!! It seems that everything was going too well for us till now! Last Thursday, we experienced our first real bad luck during this trip!! This day, we felt that we had enjoyed our 30 days in Iran and, ready to take the flight to Bishkek, we were already dreaming of having a snack without shame during daytime and drinking a fresh beer on a terrace without hijab!! But… all this will have to wait a bit more!! The situation: Nationals from 28 countries can get visa at the airport in Bishkek on arrival of their flight. Switzerland, as most of European countries, is ... read more
Flight ticket changed!
Letter from airline telling we can go to Bishkek!
Diner at home with family

Middle East » Iran » East » Mashhad September 30th 2007

Finally, this is our next blog entry... it took a while and is short wrap up of our last 10 days in beautiful Iran. Esfahan This city is the beauty queen of Iran. We stayed 4 nights but could have stayed a lot more. The biggest attraction is the Imam Khomeini Square. The second biggest square in the world (the biggest is Tiananmen Square in China) is not only huge, but it is surrounded by nice buildings. Among others two of the most wonderful mosques in the whole Islam. We visited both, the Imam Khomeini Mosque and the Sheik Lotfollah Mosque and were deeply impressed. The square is also home to close to hundreds of souvenir shops as part of the bazar and as a tourist you are begged 10 times per day to buy a ... read more
Esfahan - Imam Square with Imam Mosque
Esfahan - Sheik Lotfollah Mosque
Esfahan - Church of Bethlehem in the Armenian neighborhood

Middle East » Iran » East » Yazd September 17th 2007

We have included in this entry a map where you can see our journey of the first 19 days in Iran. Just click on the map to the left. Yazd Although we are on one of the different branches of the Silk Road since we reached Central Anatolia in Turkey we have not yet written a lot about it. Not only Silvan and Annamaria traveled to Yazd but also the probably best known Silk Road traveler: Marco Polo. He passed Yazd in the 13th century and described the city as "a very fine and splendid city and a center of commerce". Marco Polo was much more a traveler than a merchant. Only travelers with a sense of adventure (700 years ago, not necessary anymore today) traveled the whole Silk Road from Europe to China and eventually ... read more
Famous wind tower of Yazd
Yazd - A dressmaker in his quite narrow shop!
Yazd - Our friends from France and Slovenia!

Middle East » Iran » East » Yazd August 25th 2007

Vista dall'alto, Yazd appare come una uniforme distesa marrone di basse case di fango punteggiata dalle cupole azzurre e dagli slanciati minareti, finemente decorati, delle sue moschee. Cio' che risalta maggiormente e' la quantita' impressionante di badghirs, le antiche torri di ventilazione che servivano a rinfrescare le case durante le estati insopportabilmente calde e che ora costituiscono il tipico orizzonte urbano. Sorgendo ai margini del deserto, in previsione di giornate roventi, trovo un rassicurante ricovero nel confortevole hotel in centro citta', dove passero' gran parte delle due settimane trascorse a Yazd collaudando i divani, bevendo the' e dando una mano in cucina. Subito il secondo giorno mi gioco la gita culturale nel deserto: partiamo di buon mattino a bordo di una scassata pegeout senza aria condizionata e ci inoltriamo nel nulla fino ad arrivare ad Asr ... read more
Yazd: Fango, mattoni e badghirs
Una gita nel deserto
Karanaq: Minareto oscillante




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