Blogs from Ukraine, Europe - page 4

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Europe » Ukraine » Lviv October 21st 2019

After our previous visit to the Masochist Bar, we spent part of Sunday evening in yet another one of Lviv's more unusual bars. There is no sign for Kryjivka. An unmarked passage leads from the Rynok or Main Square towards a bland looking door. Rap on the door and entry is by password only. A hatch opens and a grand fatherly figure in military gear demands the password. Glory to the Ukraine or Slava Ukraine sees the door opened and you are allowed entry. There is a further test. Russians are not welcome in this hotbed of nationalism. A nationality other than Russian entitled you to a small shot of vodka, before you are pointed down the stairs into the belly of the bar. The bar makes out that it is all cutting edge and secret, ... read more
Lviv
Lychakiv Cemetery, Lviv
Kawiarnia Mikolasha Cafe, Lviv

Europe » Ukraine » Kyiv October 19th 2019

It's our last day in Kiev but our flight isn't until evening, so there's time for one last outing. We take the metro into town and then the funicular between its 100 year old art deco stations to Kiev's blue and gold domed skyline with St Sofia's cathedral, St Michael's Monastery and Saint Andrew's church. We round off our visit in style with lunch at 100 Rokiv Tomu Vpered (100 Years Ago in the Future), a restaurant run by the winner of Ukranian Masterchef. The food is a modern twist on traditional Ukranian dishes. There are some whacky things on the menu; I skip the edible bees and the celery with ash and order the chicken with beetroot kvass (bread made with fermented black bread). The chicken is served naked, whilst the waiter brandishes a blown ... read more
View from Kyiv Funicular
Kyiv Funicular
St Michael's Monastery

Europe » Ukraine » Lviv October 19th 2019

Whilst we are in the western Ukraine about to watch our first game in the country, we are in a city regarded as the birthplace of Polish football. Lviv is also the "Polish" birthplace of other sports. In January 1905, the first Polish ice-hockey match took place there and in 1907, the first ski-jumping competition was organised nearby. The city has ironically made a stab at bidding for a future winter Olympics so we could see it back at the forefront of ski jumping in the years to come. In the same year, the first Polish basketball games were organised in Lviv's gymnasiums. In 1887, the first track and field competition with such sports as the long jump and high jump was held. The political boundaries of day however saw Lviv athlete, Władysław Ponurski, represent Austria ... read more
Lviv Statue of Liberty
Ultras Banderstadt,  Karpaty Lviv
Lviv

Europe » Ukraine » Kyiv October 18th 2019

Our train to Kiev is at 11.26 so we depart the hotel in plenty of time to walk to the station via Lviv’s main sights. Our train is a sleeper train in day formation. A carriage contains 10 compartments each of 4 berths. Our seats are numbers 44 and 45. This means that when we reach the end of the carriage, the numbers have only reached 40. We stand outside the toilet a bit perplexed, then sit in some random seats, only to be moved on by their owners. We take another look and discover that each compartment has two extra numbers for day time when 6 people share the bottom 2 bunks. It’s a 6 hour journey to Kiev. This train has no trolley service so we are unprepared. It’s quite dull, chugging through trees ... read more
Town hall
Arsenal
Arsenal

Europe » Ukraine » Lviv October 18th 2019

Lviv is awash with bars. There is nothing unusual in the majority, but down an otherwise unremarkable street leading away from the Rynok a dark secret awaits. A bronze statue marks the entrance, which is a tribute to a Lviv inhabitant of yesteryear - Leopold von Sacher-Masoch. The name admittedly doesn't trip off the tongue. Herr Masoch would lend his name to the subject of sexual pleasure from pain and subjugation i.e. masochism. Old Leopold was an Austrian nobleman, who resided in these parts in the mid 1800s. A writer and a journalist, he gained some renown for his romantic stories. His best known work, Venus in Furs from 1870, explores the very un-Victorian subject of his understanding of sexual relationships. It is probably fair to say, they were unconventional for the time. This is a ... read more
St George's Cathedral, Lviv
Lviv Railway Station
Lviv

Europe » Ukraine » Lviv October 17th 2019

"We have a secret to tell you". These are not my words, but those of an advertisement stencilled on a wall. I spotted it, as we wandered down a random street on our first afternoon in Lviv. It was for a beauty parlour and nail bar, but it neatly sums up our trip to the largest city in the western Ukraine. It might be a bit of a secret for now in UK travelling circles, but it will soon be out. The other advertising slogan for the beauty window stated merely "You are in the right place". If you read on through this and the next few blogs in my mini series, we can pass on some of the secrets of Lviv and you too can decide if it is indeed the right place for you. ... read more
Lviv
Lviv Opera House
Lviv Town Hall

Europe » Ukraine » Kiev » Chernobyl October 16th 2019

Today we’re taking a guided tour of Chernobyl, together with Olena, our Ukrainian hostess. We board our minibus in Kyiv and are issued with permits and a Geiger counter before setting off for the exclusion zone. Upon arrival at the 30 km exclusion zone, we are provided with dossimeters and told not to eat or drink anything we find in the forest. We proceed to the town of Chernobyl where 2500 people still live and work on a shift basis, staying in dorms and spending half of each month outside the zone to decrease their radiation exposure. Following the fall of communism, Chernobyl is the only Ukrainian town to retain a Lenin statue in the main square. Presumably it’s too radioactive to mess with. Our tour guide is quite bossy and a little crazy. We have ... read more
Angel memorial
Firemen’s memorial
Robots used to deal with debris

Europe » Ukraine » Kyiv October 14th 2019

Our flight to Kiev is at 1.30 pm but due to the old man’s ineptitude with time zones, the hire car has to be dropped at 9 am. So today consists mostly of sitting in Minsk airport. There are worse places; there are plenty of old aircraft and bison sculptures dotted around to keep me entertained. Ironically, the car hire desk doesn’t open until 10 am anyway, which makes returning a car quite complicated – especially as there is no drop off point. Apparently (we finally learn) you park in the general car park and the Europcar employee rides up and down on a scooter looking for his cars. Parking is not easy. The car park is full and it’s difficult to drive round because so many cars are parked in places other than parking bays. ... read more
Minsk airport
Descending into Kyiv
Sunset on the Dnipro

Europe » Ukraine September 23rd 2019

Finally getting this blog from last year published. Here's hoping to safe travels soon. Subtitled: 6 Days, 5 Countries. Even for me this week was more of a mad dash than I ever could have foreseen. After L'viv I spent more than 1 night in only 2 places, Odesa and Chişinău, Moldova. In hindsight, I wish I had gone back to Odesa from Chişinău via Transdniester then flown to Thessaloniki for ~$100 which is probably what I spent going overland through Romania and Bulgaria. Plus I would have been able to visit Transdniester with an illegal exit from Moldova proper which would have been my 3rd illegal exit (South Cyprus to North Cyprus and Serbia to Kosovo the others) on this expiring passport. $US ≈ 24.5 Ukrainain hryvnia (UAH), 1.7 Bulgarian lev, €0.90 L'vivBeautiful city with ... read more
L'viv Opera House
L'viv Blue Bottle Cafe
Blue Bottle Ambiance

Europe » Ukraine » Ivano-Frankivsk Oblast September 21st 2019

In the Carpathians... Ever since arriving in Ukraine last week, I've been having bad flashbacks to my year and a half studying the grammatically diabolical Russian language. To me, Ukrainian and Russian are similar enough yet also different enough that I'm never quite sure if I should: a) attempt to communicate in Ukrainian; b) make a marginally better attempt in Russian; c) just give up and go straight to English. With b), I never know how Ukrainians will feel about being addressed in Russian so I've been hoping that I'm being perceived as a well-intentioned tourist trying to speak unintelligible Ukrainian. Currently in L'viv, beautiful city with a fascinating history. Will spend 3 days and nights here before continuing to Kyiv, Odesa, and Moldova... one frenetic week for all 3. До побачення, товариші! $US ≈ 24.5 ... read more
Souvenir Stand, Many Bottles of Nalivka
Town Hall and Market Square
Childrens Library




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