Blogs from Suzdal, Centre, Russia, Europe
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Suzdal is a chocolate-box town, known as the "Jewel in the Crown" of the Golden Ring. Every building is pretty and different to the ones around it, and although Suzdal is famed for its churches, the real pleasure is just in walking around the town and taking in the sleepy atmosphere. Arriving on a quiet, sunny morning was unreal, and I felt like we were in a model village. The highlights of my day were both musical, and both in the St Euthimius Monastery. Firstly the hourly chiming of the bells, playing a chaotic, lively dance tune over a steady droning beat. Overall it reminded me of Hitchcock soundtracks, which was eerie in the quiet, deserted monastery grounds. Later we were looking around the church, the only people there apart from one couple, when three monks, ... read more
5 décembre 2012, Moscou Snif snif! Le train est fini… déjà! Depuis le temps qu’on rêvait au Trans-Sibérien, c’est déjà terminé, je n’en reviens pas comme ça va vite. D’ailleurs, on a passé le cap du 300 jours de voyage! Mais je ne pourrai pas dire que j’ai fait le TransMongolien au complet puisque nous sommes arrêtés un arrêt avant Moscou, à Vladimir, pour aller à Suzdal. En campagne! Pendant le trajet de bus d’une heure, j’avais l’impression de me balader dans la campagne québécoise. Des fermes par-ci par-là, dans des champs de foin séché, couverts d’une mince couche de neige balayée par le vent. Avec des gens qui embarquent et débarquent aux croisements de deux rangs, sortis de nulle-part. En débarquant du bus, au croisement d’un rang-pis-d’la-main, je me pensais presqu’... read more
Épopée du Transsibérien 3ième et dernière partie – Visite d’un petit village russe et arrivée à Moscou
Published: December 4th 2012Europe » Russia » Centre » SuzdalÉtape #3 – Tomsk à Vladimir (56h et 3409 km) Pour notre troisième et dernier tronçon du transsibérien, nous avons cette fois-ci emprunté un train russe et il n’était pas bien différent de ses homologues chinois. Même configuration, mais plus récent et beaucoup mieux chauffé, ce qui n’était pas tout à fait un luxe avec le -30°C rencontré au départ de Tomsk. Nous partagions la cabine avec un couple russe assez sympathique de l’âge de mes parents. Malheureusement, pour une raison inexpliquée, la dame à passer le trajet en entier couchée sur sa banquette, nous privant par le fait même d’une place assise. Mais comme nous ne voulions pas être de mauvaise humeur à cause de cela, nous nous sommes imaginé qu’elle devait être malade et que ce n’était pas de la mauvaise foi. Nous ne ... read more
Suzdal (of many churches) We’d decided on Suzdal to get away from the hustle and bustle of Moscow. The suburban train from Moscow was an interesting experience – 3 1/2 hour journey with no toilets. Fortunately Vitali – an ex army local explained that we could use the gap between the carriages. We declined, but struck up a friendly conversation with him and he shared with us a strange alcoholic grape juice as well as a pocket full of roasted sunflower seeds. He was also determined to leave us his address, phone number and children’s details and so did. Meanwhile another local, Elza, had been roped in to translate. Her English was very good and we spent the rest of the journey chatting with her. Elza is a director of HR in Moscow and going to ... read more
After three days, we had departed the train... the only problem now being that we needed to find our way out of the train station!! We clearly must have went the wrong way as we exited the train station half an hour later, having walked the entire length of the trans- siberian train to find we were lost. Eventually coming out through the turnstyle we met a young Russian guy who we expected would be our guide of Vladimir then Suzdal where we were to be dropped off to stay for 2 days. But the guy seemed to be mute, and we hopped in his car not knowing where we were off to or what we were doing... It seemed our itinerary was wrong?! We ended up in Suzdal in front of someones house craving a ... read more
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The last time I wrote, I was just about to leave Vilnius, the current European capital of culture, in Lithuania. I had a slight feeling of anticipation about the next leg of my journey, as I’d read on numerous occasions that entering the Russian Federation can sometimes be a torturous, time-consuming affair. Luckily I was able to escape these feelings on the short walk to the train station. A couple of policemen flicked inattentively through a soft core porn magazine in their car. They gave me a look that wreaked of masculinity when they caught me peering through the car window as I walked past. Further on a group of tone deaf teenagers grunted to two friends who were walking in the wrong direction. Strangely enough they were oblivious to the calls and rapid hand movements. ... read more
Any time that you arrive in a town at 5.35am you know that it is going to be a long day. When the day ends with 10 shots of vodka, you can be pretty sure that the next day will be even longer. We took an overnight train (third class once again) from St Pete, through Moscow to Vladimir. We got in to Vladimir at 4.55am and took a van to Suzdal, one of the towns in the Golden Ring. Suzdal was the first capital of Russia, before Moscow was even founded. In fact, a prince of Suzdal was the founder of Moscow. While tiny at 9000 residents and almost completely undeveloped and focused on farming and tourism, it is filled with churches and monasteries. All of this is quite fascinating, but when you haven’t slept ... read more
Trans-siberian stage 1 : Moscow - Vladimir (& on to Suzdal)
Published: June 13th 2009Europe » Russia » Centre » SuzdalBefore I start, I'd just like to say: I LOVE MY RUCKSACK! I think that one of the last things that some of you heard me say in London was along the lines of "I hate this f-ing bag" but now I'm used to it and have got rid of the extra "day bag" as well as ditching a few things before we left London I am liking my new home very much. Train #1: the 120 from Moscow to Vladimir So, our first trans-siberian train journey was a miniscule 2.5 hours on train number 120 and very pleasant it was too! It was so short that we didn't take any photos but we were sat in a nice clean airy 6 seat compartment and to our surprise (for we had not requested this with our ... read more
Day 15 -16 (April 19-20) Vladimir is an old capital, but we move on from here by local bus to the nearby town of Suzdal (also an old capital). Because it is that bit further from the Trans-Siberian train line it hasn’t been developed as much and retains it’s old charm. Suzdal is a town of so many churches (over 50) for a population of only 12,000. Most of the churches are actually two buildings, a smaller one for winter to save on heating, and a larger one for summer (to impress). It is a Unesco World Heritage area and not surprising. It’s Kremlin is very impressive. There is a market in the square selling quilts, wooden crafts and pottery, as well as the local drink (honey mead). We go to a tasting area and try ... read more
Россия два: More Moscow, Vladimir and Suzdal, Baclanitsa
Published: March 3rd 2009Europe » Russia » Centre » SuzdalFebruary 22nd, 2009 - 1300 hrs I know I told myself that a break from the writing would be taken (lasting 2 days in length). However, I just wanted to mention a couple or few things that to date I have failed to comment on. These I like to call frustrations. First, and obviously, the weather. It’s not the slippery sidewalks, packed with snow and slush that will last until May. Its not the fact that you don’t need a forecast to tell you that everyday is “fucking cold” (I wanted to scream “da!” at a group of teenagers on the street complaining about “zimoi”). Nor is it the…actually, that’s about it. What really bugs me is the TIME you have to spend in it. Moscow is such a large city that even with all the ... read more
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