After a short but relaxing visit to see friends and their toddler in the wine growing region south of Frankfurt, it was time to visit some parts of Germany which Luke knew but which were new to me. For obvious, war related reasons, there aren't many historical sites left in Koeln, apart from the cathedral. However, it's impressive enough to make up for it, with vast towering spires and immense stained glass windows. Inside there is an incredible feeling of space, despite the inevitably high number of tourists there at any given moment. The day we arrived was the day of the Germany v Italy semi-final and from lunchtime onwards the town was gearing up for it, becoming increasingly schwarz, rot, gold as the day went on. We sat by the river, feeling slightly guilty for
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