willo

Costa Rican tourism is dominated by Americans, old Americans retire here, middle aged Americans bring their kids on holiday here and young Americans backpack or volunteer here. As such the country is heavily geared toward catering to demanding tourists, the restaurants serve fast food, the tours run seamlessly with English speaking guides and everything costs many times that of the neighbouring countries, I may be being harsh but I feel like Costa Rica has lost much of its authenticity and is now more like a tropical Disney Land. My first stop over the border was the town of La Fortuna, famous for its proximity to Volcán Arenal the town is geared toward adventure tourism; having gotten used to personal guided tours for $10 many of the available activities were well out of my price range, amusingly ... read more

After seeing Rach safely into an airport taxi I left San Pedro Sula for the forth (and hopefully last) time and made the mammoth bus tip across Honduras and south into the highlands of Nicaragua. My first stop just over the border was the small colonial town of Somoto; the town didn't feature on the gringo trail until 2004 when some Czech scientists brought the existence of Cañon de Somoto to the world’s attention. Formed millions of years ago the gorge just outside town is a mere 10m wide but plunges 150m into the granite strata. Along its three km length runs the Nascent River between the high walls. With a local guide I spent a fantastic afternoon swimming, jumping and floating downstream through this extraordinary place, the near vertical granite walls shoot up either side ... read more

Utila is a tiny island 29km off the north coast of Honduras and is home to around 2800 permanent residents clustered around a half moon shaped bay. Originally a British colony the local (largely white) Utilians still speak an English dialect with a heavy Caribbean twang; in 1859 Utila was ceded back to Honduras by Queen Victoria and the issue still occupies the local consciousness, my landlady asked me bluntly "why your queen give us away, we no want be given away. Fifty most important men on the i-land wrote to her - includin' my great gran daddy - but she no listen." I apologized for my former queen's lack of judgment & she seemed satisfied. The island is changing rapidly, Latinos from the mainland make up an ever increasing part of the population, probably drawn ... read more

This past week has seen me cross three countries, the contrast of people and landscapes I've encountered in this short time have been fascinating. I started in Tikal, an archetypal and exemplary Mayan ruin in norther Guatemala, next I headed to the Caribbean coast of Belize & finally, at the northern most point of my journey, to the Yucatán peninsular of Mexico. Tikal My last stop in Guatemala was to the small village of El Remate nestled on the lake-shore of Lago de Petén Itzá in the northern region of Petén. I stayed in a small hotel with lake views and a jetty, it was very nice cooling down in the freshwater lake once the midday sun had become too much. Lovely as this area was my main reason for spending time here was its proximity ... read more

Lake Atiltan is situated high in the Guatemalan highlands; a Mecca for Spanish students and backpackers alike, ringed by small tranquil villages interspersed amongst volcanoes towering over 3000m, the area has been inhabited since pre-hispanic times and for most locals Mayan is still the first language. Like so many areas in Guatemala the Lake is situated over a Volcanic hotspot and the amazing scenery results largely from past (and present) volcanic activity. About 150,000 years ago a magmatic batholith formed - this is a vast subterranean pocket filled with magma - then 84,000 years ago "Los Chocoyos Batholith" blew its top and left a huge empty cavity which then collapsed under its own weight taking with it the surrounding volcanoes. The remaining hole or Caldera was over 18km across and resulted in the formation of the ... read more