You don’t visit Cairo. You’re attacked by it. The heat, the 20 million people, the traffic & the smog all hit you as soon as you leave the airport. However after the chaos with the volcanic ash, I was delighted to be anywhere other than Ireland. From buses to London, to flights to obscure Polish towns my mind had been racing with alternative ways to start the trip. There was a traditional Egyptian welcome on arrival at the hostel: Egyptian tea, ridiculously strong Egyptian cigarettes... and a long hard sell about all the tours they organised! Confident in my unfailing ability to get horrendously lost in any city in the world yet still eventually find my way, I immediately decided against the city tours. I considered the trips to Aswan and Luxor for a while but
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