Blogs from Asia - page 15975

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Asia » India » Sikkim » Gangtok February 20th 2001

9-day Himalayan trek: $180. 8 candy bars and 2 bags of trail snacks: Rs 240. Hearing the sound of my voice fill a glacial valley while I belt out The Star Spangled Banner: priceless. All the bitter drama of a long and mentally exhausting trip over, our last hike ended with the trailhead leading us directly down the hill in the "balmy" afternoon to....... Ralph! Oh, my god, when do we NOT see this guy? But it's poignantly humorous that we continue to have him imposed on us since Goa! We had a good chance to recount some of our best trek stories, though. Like when the cook got tempermental and quit after Thansing and when the remaining porters (dressed in Howard's extra clothes because they were sadly unprepared) knocked off pieces of the roof at ... read more
Rumtek monastery

Asia » India » Sikkim February 16th 2001

Things I miss: wearing jeans scotch my laptop computer bras in my size having the same surroundings for more than one week working out It's hard to believe I paid money to be this cold but it makes for a lot of opportunities to remember that I have a sense of humor. Today after a short but steep hike, as the quick and creepy mist blew the snow over us, we arrived at the hut. The huts are the only structures in sight and after a full day of hiking, it's a sweet sight when the little shabby roof pokes out of the mist in the distance. They're never built very well, only meant to be half-assed shelter at best. Here, Mike and I had to warm ourselves by dancing hard and singing 80's disco songs ... read more
Postcard from Gangtok, Sikkim

Asia » India » West Bengal » Darjeeling February 6th 2001

So, we can see our breath in our room and my toothpaste is frozen. Darjeeling, this lovely old city built into the side of a hill, is still nicer than almost anywhere in the south. Reason 1. The people are obviously not as hung-up about tourists. 2. The women are more approachable and some even wear PANTS and have shorter hair. By far, there are fewer hassles but there's still that Indian beaurocracy which sent us back and forth between 2 offices, 3 km apart, for our Sikkim permits (if they're free, why do we even need them?) What a treat to see the peaks of some of the Himalayas! Early morning, some of the mist cleared and the snowy points were there, disembodied and floating over the city like a cloud bank. Awesome! And there's ... read more

Asia » India » West Bengal February 2nd 2001

India survival guide: 1. pack earplugs and plenty of patience 2. don't look anyone in the eyes 3. get used to being the center of attention 4. revealing your knees (women) is unacceptable but hacking/spitting, picking your nose and yelling outside a hotel room at dawn is okay. We're really outsiders here but like the time we confronted the guy on the bus to Colva who hit his girlfriend, I became personally interested. I needed to help someone look at what it is they're doing and understand why it pisses me off. We're on the train to Darjeeling, near Calcutta. There's a family of five near us, in two seats of course. While I was reading, I picked up some disharmony. I looked up and Mike said, "He just hit his wife." She's being absolutely silent. ... read more

Asia » India » Orissa » Puri January 27th 2001

Leslie's list of "Why's" Why isn't there a better way to process the waste created by over one billion people (and cows)? For a country that sees SO MANY Western tourists, why isn't there more of an interest in our sense of 1. cleanliness 2. sales techniques 3. noise levels 4. personal space? Why do so many Indians make me so annoyed with them? Why is this man giving me walking directions to the station when I'm asking if I can call? Why doesn't anybody EVER have change? I had a really interesting opportunity before dawn on the 24-hour train ride to Bhubaneswar. Turns out, I was sleeping under a woman who grew up here in Orissa but has lived in Albany, NY for the last 20 years. Well, of course I picked her brain about ... read more

Asia » India » Tamil Nadu » Mamallapuram January 24th 2001

Here is a compilation of some of The Sounds of India: The loudest horns used as frequently as possible. That truly unappetizing sound made by collecting phlegm in the back of the mouth, usually made just before spitting. HHHHHHckhttt! The beating of laundry on a rock, usually near our bedroom window and always at about 6:30 am. Something - anything - on a loudspeaker full blast. Mamallapuram: world-famous for its shoreline temple. But what's not in the guidebook is the eyesore of a chain-link fence ,keeping out the non-Indians who've decided to pass on the $10 entry fee (!!!) Indians pay 10 rupees (about 25 cents). I couldn't possibly satisfactorily describe how disgusting the trash and effluence was, literally FLOWING across the beach. Fortunately, we had already gotten lunch out of the way, where we happened ... read more
Arjuna's Penance, Mamallapuram
Rickshaw, Chennai (Madras)

Asia » Thailand January 17th 2001

We spent around 5 days in Bangkok before heading to Phuket where we stayed at a beach resort. I got severly sunburnt reading a book cover to cover on the beach.... read more

Asia » India » Tamil Nadu » Chennai January 16th 2001

The only buses to Kochi are overnighters, and they're actually somewhat comfortable. Then we took the next bus to Alleppey where the hotels just weren't satisfactory. Imagine that! So instead of staying, we collapsed onto a backwater ferry boat and did nothing but watch the scenery pass for 8 wonderful hours. Beautiful! Peaceful! But what to do next? We gritted our teeth and went to see what the very southern tip of the subcontinent, Kanniyakumari, had to offer. Answer: not a lot for Westerners. We knew that a place as spiritually important as this would be a big pilgrimage site, therefor luring thousands of Indian tourists and kitsch vendors. Imagine our double surprise to find that the holiday of Pongal was upon us! It did look like a good time if you were part of the ... read more
Temple in Madurai, Tamil Nadu
Sadhus
Skanda, God of War, Sri Meenakshi Temple, Madurai

Asia » India » Karnataka » Mysore January 11th 2001

The train was a pleasant overnighter into Bangalore where Dan the Canadian stayed to take advantage of the Kentucky Fried Chicken. We hopped on to the bus to Hassan, then another to Belur. Our first bus included a "touching" incident that didn't altogether surprise me but did force me to swing around and confront the asshole who put his hands on me. And it made Mike stand up and yell, "Touch her again and there'll be BIG TROUBLE! Go sit over there." What doesn't make sense is to try for a grope at the beginning of a 4-hour bus ride, instead of on the way out the door. Jerk. Hassan was too big, dirty and noisy so onto Belur it was... We found a little restaurant where all the tables were hidden in secretive little compartments ... read more
Picture of Sadhus
Sun Temple, Konark
Detail from Sun Temple, Konark

Asia » India » Karnataka » Hampi January 3rd 2001

Mike said once, "I love India! But the Indians drive me crazy." I see evidence now that it's a culture in which the sense of ethetics, etiquette and procedure is remarkably opposite to mine. The in-your-face sales pitches, the ubiquitous pick-up lines from men on the street, the crowding of the only other people in the whole room (bus, table), the blowing of noses on to the ground in public (men and women both) the seemingly reckless disregard for the lives of other people and animals, the probing personal questions from strangers - aargh! A guy named Doug in Arusha told me, "There's nothing you can say about India that the exact opposite won't also be true." I believe it. Finally getting our fill of Colva, we started on the next leg of our adventure. We ... read more
Hampi from above
Vittala Temple, Hampi




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