Our luck from the Serengeti does hold. We camp on the crater rim, and take the jeeps down at dawn. The Crater is an immense sight... 18km across, home to an almost self-contained eco-system complete with elephants, zebra, lions, cheetah and hippos. It was created by the eruption of an enormous volcano, higher than Mount Kilimanjaro, which left the larget intact caldera on the plant. From the rim, 650 metres above the crater floor, it looks devoid of life, but once in the crater we realise it is anything but. We pass through a small area of dense woodland, then out
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