Nampula is cursorily dismissed by my guidebook as “just another Southern African every town,” a description which overlooks its shabby charms and jostling markets. Leaving these, admittedly, rather modest attractions behind, the tarmac morphs into a long dusty, palm-tree bordered road, and the urban sprawl of 1960s-built high rises recedes into open, shrubby savannah. It's just after the rainy season and although shorter than usual (a drought is feared in these parts), the land still looks lusciously lime-coloured. The horizon is dominated by rocky outcrops, the most prominent rese
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