Blogs from Malawi, Africa - page 73

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Africa » Malawi » Central » Dzaleka June 7th 2007

Great news: Sourire’s rejection was reversed by the immigration official. I was with a couple of her classmates who are also going to study abroad with her when we all found out; it was especially exciting for them, since none of them was really able to feel good about their own approvals until they knew Sourire would be going, too. On Tuesday Elodie took me around the camp to meet some Rwandan families, since I have so far met mostly Congolese and Burundians. There is a new batch of refugees who just arrived in the camp from a transit shelter in the north part of the country, which the government is closing. There are about 400 of them, mostly single males from Somalia, and a few from DRC. Somalians are very striking individuals; they are ... read more
Temporary shelter
New arrivals from Karonga
Rwandan kids

Africa » Malawi » Central » Lilongwe June 4th 2007

url='/Videos/3622.html' onclick='dialog("/Videos/3622.html?popped=1","tbvideo",600,600);return false;'Mada scooping nsima Well to give you a quick update about the case of Sourire, the immigration official decided to reopen her case. She swore up and down that it had nothing to do with the pressure that had been brought to bear by us and others, claiming rather that she had been apprised of “new information.” But there was no new information—except the information in Sourire’s file which the official had neglected to read before interviewing her. But as my boss explained to me, a large part of being a lawyer is knowing how to remain deferential even after you prove someone wrong. On Saturday I came into the office to do some work online (we only get internet after hours and on weekends!), and then I walked into town with one of ... read more
Me and Mada
Mada stirring the nsima
Final product

Africa » Malawi » Central » Lilongwe June 2nd 2007

African travel is a humbling experience. I've arrived in the beautiful country of Malawi, as my second visit to the dark continent draws to a close. Malawi is often described as the warm heart of Africa, and travellers are sure to receive a special welcome from the Malawians who are famed for their friendliness. In hindsight though, if someone were to stop me in the street to ask the question: Hey Tom, you're an experienced traveller now, what are your views then on the future of Africa? Unfortunately my response would be that I'm stumped for an answer. Africa ... fascinating, infuriating, scintillating, excruciating and ever mysterious, the birthplace of mankind still faces a perilous future while the rest of the world continues to prosper. I keep my journals apolitical, constant reader, and deliberately so. I ... read more
Late afternoon shot
Sunset shot
Post sunset shot

Africa » Malawi » Central » Lilongwe June 2nd 2007

url='/Videos/3582.html' onclick='dialog("/Videos/3582.html?popped=1","tbvideo",600,600);return false;'Food stalls at Dzaleka Well I confronted my first real challenge here in a (near-)attorney capacity. Today a group of fifteen students who have been approved for a program to study abroad in a Western country had their interviews with the country’s immigration official to determine whether they would gain refugee status there. No student approved by the program has ever been rejected by the country’s immigration before, but to our great surprise a student from Rwanda I’ll call Sourire—whose refugee status has been recognized both by Malawi and UNHCR—was turned down. I went with a colleague to meet with the immigration official to try and determine what happened and whether she might appeal. The official was a nightmare. She couldn’t discuss individual cases, she initially said, ... read more
Magret and Grey in a Dzaleka food stall

Africa » Malawi » Central » Lilongwe June 1st 2007

Thurs 31 May Drove back to Mzuzu and, relief, an open petrol station. We’d only passed one other over the last four days, and that was out of diesel. Reputedly we’d been near to somewhere that sold it in 20 litre cans that they collected on the bus - but I hadn’t actually found that retailer. Then southwards down the lakeshore to Kande Beach. A bit of a culture shock as it is a large backpacker stop geared up for the overland tourist trucks and there were three of them there - about 60 travellers. One was the same truck that Tamsin had traveled in through Namibia so she reminisced with the guide and made a date to meet him again in Zanzibar, where they both expect to be in a couple of weeks. Fri 1 ... read more

Africa » Malawi » Lake Malawi May 29th 2007

Tues 29 May Headed north along lakeshore and then inland up a 15km horrendous rough and steep road climbing 1500m to Livingstonia - site of the Scottish Mission founded by the Scotsman Dr Robert Laws. Stayed overnight at the ‘Mushroom Farm Lodge’ - a small backpacker lodge with 1500m vertical views. Local lads guided us to a waterfall with a cave behind where people reputedly hid to avoid paying taxes. Not being too keen on heights I chickened out and left Tamsin to the locals - personally I would rather have paid the taxes than have hidden there Wed 30 May Wandered around Livingstonia - looked like a cross between a ‘model village’, an army base, a council estate, and a posh public school. All neatly laid out with a huge church, a hospital, a ... read more
Waterfall Guides
From the cave
Keep Livingstonia HIV free

Africa » Malawi » Central » Lilongwe May 28th 2007

Am at Lilongwe now.. the capital of Malawi.. Internet's ok.. about 400 malawi qwachas / hr (1USD=145malkwacha) Just spent 4 days a long Lake Malawi.. not too bad.. Lake Malawi is a pretty nice lake.. it's kind of amazing to see such a big body of water.. with crashing waves.. and it does not taste salty!! Basically did some kayaking... swimming against the waves.. and did my first freshwater altitude (475m above sealevel only) dive! whoo.. something new to add in my dive log.. basically just saw a lot of boulders.. and this species of fish called chiclids or something.. they lay eggs and fertilize them in mouth.. and when fish hatch, they just swim out of mummy's mouth.. too bad didn't get to see this... visibility is bad at only 5-8m.. still enjoy saltwater ... read more
Campsite #1 - by the lake..
Us taking lunch break along the way
Village kids on the way to Livingstonia

Africa » Malawi » Northern » Mzuzu May 28th 2007

Mon 28 May Emerged from our dingy Travelodge and gave the battery another wallop and Jonathan appeared to guide us to a local mechanic who charged £2 for parts (new connectors) and a £2 tip for his time. But for the rest of the trip I was never 100% confident about the go-anywhere reliability of the 4x4, especially as the back door kept jamming, the exotic gauges (altimeter, compass, angle we were tipped at, etc) all had very wild readings, and a few other niggles. And we were to travel miles from anywhere on some very poor roads. Spent the morning shopping for Tamsin’s ‘teacher aids’ - door locks, lamps, clocks,etc. Then farewell to Jonathan and Cecilia who headed off to catch the evening ferry, and we headed the other way for an hour down ... read more
Tamsin by our hut - with a friend
Cheers !
Behind you !!

Africa » Malawi » Lake Malawi May 28th 2007

I know how you all love my updates but you will have to wait a little longer. I have been on an island in the middle of lake malawi wilth no email, I borrowed a comp to type up what I had been doing but now back on the mainland on a slow computer the memory stick isn't recognised. So you will have to wait another week till I am in Lilongwe and I will try to update you there about the island and what I am doing thisweek with my new travel companion- my dad. I'd like votes on who you would like this weeks blog to be written by- Me or Dad (you will still get my 3 weeks on the island from me) Love to all Tamsin Stop Press News Go back to ... read more

Africa » Malawi » Northern » Mzuzu May 27th 2007

Sat 26 May Off to catch the evening boat (the Ilala - it’s the only one) to the Malawi mainland at Nkhata Bay. The ferry journey was 'an experience'. We actually had a nice cabin. But loading from Likoma where there is no jetty was like a war time evacuation. Lots of overloaded small boats carrying goods and people in the dark out to the ferry where we clambered up a ladder. And the arrival was a stampede to get goods to market - and trying to check tickets as people got off seemed a bit late in the day. Sun 27 May Reached mainland at Nkhata Bay and much to everyone's amazement the hire car I had booked in Lilongwe (a big Mitsubishi 4wd ) was there. Minimal formalities and I paid cash as ... read more
Tamsin Cecilia Jonathan
Highbury to Mzuzu




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