Blogs from Laikipia, Rift Valley Province, Kenya, Africa

#Tag 38 Wir verlassen Nakuru Richtung Nyeri. Unterwegs kommen wir an Tee-, Kaffee-, Mais- und Bananenplantagen vorbei. Eine Teeplantage schauen wir uns genauer an und nutzen die Gelenheit, gleich beim Hersteller einzukaufen. Als Begründung für das fruchtbare Land wird uns die Mischung zwischen Erde und vulkanischem Boden angegeben. In Gegenden, wo der Boden nicht die gewünschte Zusammensetzung besitzt, wird die fehlende Komponente ergänzt. Da wir uns in Äquatornähe befinden, kreuzen wir mehrmals die Äquatorlinie. Überall versuchen Einheimische mittels einem mit Wasser gefüllten Eimer, ein Experiment vorzuführen. Die sogenannte Corioliskraft soll das abfliessende Wasser gegen den Uhrzeigersinn drehen lassen, falls man sich nördlich vom Äquator befindet. Südlich vom Äquator fliesst das Wasser im Uhrzeigersinn ab. Das Experiment wird jeweils wenige Meter von der Äquator... read more

I’m constantly on the lookout for snakes. Not because they frighten me (although, it’s undoubtedly a good idea to maintain a healthy respect for them), but because I want to see them. The majority of snakes that I’ve encountered on and around Mpala have been dead ones, killed by locals out of fear, hate, and superstition (some tribes believe it adds seven days onto one’s life). Most Africans believe the only good snake is a dead snake - judging by experience, it sadly seems that most cultures around the world readily agree. But me, I like snakes. I prefer seeing them alive, not dead. Unfortunately, I haven’t even seen a handful of live snakes in the last three-plus months. Which is why, when I found one of my transmitter-fitted Superb Starlings (thanks to telemetry) in a ... read more

There is something truly marvelous and unique about stumbling across wildlife in pastoral Kenya. I've visited a number of National Parks and reserves throughout Southern Africa and Kenya and, while sightings of charismatic megafauna are always exhilarating, it's a different experience when it's just part of day-to-day life. Maybe it's the fact that it's not as expected here, that the rarest animal in these parts of Africa is the mtalii (tourist). These are areas where people and animals are forced to truly coexist, living side by side and in one another's presence; if respect is not shared between one and the other, conflict is inevitable. In many ways, the relationship between people and wildlife is much the same now as it was a thousand years ago (though, in others, it also couldn't be more different - ... read more

Minutes past 0100, the night hangs heavily over the wilds of East Africa; the bewitching hour begins. A full moon bathes the bush in a dramatic glow, giving it an eerie personality, for it is the dead of the night yet shadows are strewn across the monochrome landscape like lost souls. Save for the confused chirp of a diurnal bird, all is quiet; all is calm. A female waterbuck relaxes in the stillness, sitting, with legs tucked under her, in the same patch of the Kenyan highlands she occupies most nights. Her shaggy pelage bears the hue of the bush in the dry season - a washed khaki, on the verge of a warm brownish-grey through her midsection - and, despite her moderate size, she cryptically melds with her surroundings such that, even during the day, ... read more