Blogs from Antofagasta Region, Chile, South America - page 49

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Strange spending so much time so high, altitudinaly that is, when the highest real estate in Oz, Mt. Kosiusko, is only 2,200 metres or so (I think) and here in San Pedro de Atacama it’s already 2,440 and everywhere else around here is higher. Breathing is always a little laboured but with a mouthful of coca it gets easier! Did a few look-arounds of San Pedro, they really draw a long bow with some of the “famous” features, crikey, but the general scenery is soo fantastic that you can overlook the overblown toury spots general shortcomings. Valley of the Dead, Dry Lake, Green Lake…and, in the Valley of the Moon, the Turtle’s Head that iconic, Incan outcrop, dedicated to the god of constipation. While we’re there, much as the Valley of the Moon was modestly awesome, ... read more
Our Street
Old Power Plant at Geysers
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As mentioned in our last blog we booked a flight to Santiago - the capital, which is about halfway up the country. Santiago was hot and sticky which for about a day was very pleasurable as the South had been anything but. We climbed the hill in centre of the city to get a good view of the smoggy, sprawling mess that is Santiago. We explored the central administrative part of Santiago which is very grand, with a great central square which is very well used. We had a great lunch at the fish market at a place called Deniss. He turned out to be quality entertainment. The old part "Barrio Brazil" was lovely, really nice archtecture and very relaxed, however as a whole the city was overwhelming so we moved very quickly on to the ... read more

South America » Chile » Antofagasta Region » Antofagasta February 1st 2006

Well I´m now in Antofagasta, making a sort of detour from my vague original plan. I crossed the salars of southern Bolivia into Chile, albiet after doing my wildlife caring thing. Now I´m likely to be heading a little further south to Viña del Mar and Valparaiso on the Chilean coast, then over to Mendoza, Argentina for some good old fashioned hard work on an organic fruit farm. Lots of photos to upload, since my last post with photos was a while ago.... read more


San Pedro de Atacama is a small touristic town in the middle of the desert, on the edge of the Atacama salt flat and on the foothills of the Andes. It's a comfortable place to stay and it's surrounded by some amazing stuff: salt flat, salt mountains, salt lakes, sand dunes, volcanoes and geysers. It's a tourist hot spot and accordingly the prices are high. Because of the tourism the town has grown fast in the last years. This however, causes annoying problems like shortage of water and power cuts, of which we got our share. It's a dry and dusty place and in the summer time the days are hot, but at 2300 meters the wind is constant and offers some relief. During the three days that we spent in San Pedro we went to ... read more
Miss Chile
Exploring the salt mountains
Paul stuck in salt


San Pedro de Atacama, hot spot for the driest desert in the world. I arrived in the morning of January 29, and was fortunate enough to meet up with three great people. First, I met an American couple, Chris and Jess, who are professional climbers here in South America for three months, climbing rock and ice. Maniacs. But very cool. We then met up with Rachel, an English astronomer (she hates when I tell people) who has been working in La Serena, Chile, but is moving to Hawaii this coming Tuesday. I don´t think I mentioned Rachel before, but I had seen her twice. When I was on my two day tour to NP Lauca, I saw her riding her bike through the mountains with the intention of crossing into Bolivia. Turned out the altitide and ... read more

South America » Chile » Antofagasta Region » Antofagasta January 30th 2006

From Bahia Inglesa the tour continued to Antofagasta through one of the driest places on earth. There has been any rain in over 50 years! Antofagasta is the second biggest city in Chile with about 350 thousand people living there. Quite a gap to Santiago with over 6 million people. Antofagasta is the main port of Chile's mining industry and is not a very interesting place. La Portada - a cliff formation in the ocean - is one of the few scenic places in Antofagasta. From Antofagasta we drove through desert and salt flat into San Pedro de Atacama. We stopped in Baquedano about an hour away from Antofagasta. There we went to see some old trains, which were abandoned in the beginning of the century. The trains haven't started rusting because there is hardly any ... read more
No rain in 50 years
Cemetary in the desert
Simple cross made of pipes


What a different day to the previous one - gorgeous blue sky and sunshine! Salta has great nightlife, so having had a cocktail or 2 the previous night (when they are only just over 1 pound each, how could we not?!) it was time to take it easy today. Had a leisurely lunch in the main square (this one is not called Plaza de Armas for a change, but instead the "9 de Julio" square, ie. 9th of July square. Argentina´s independence day...) Then went up to the top of San Bernadino hill by cable car - fab views! Didn´t paraglide down as the tour operator didn´t have any spaces left! Off to Chile next, and the most tedious border crossing ever.... the truck was searched inside and out, they even opened the fuel tank for ... read more
Cathedral and cafes, Salta
View of Salta from San Bernadino hill
Main Square, San Pedro de Atacama


The bus to Calama was quite pleasent, we were expecting a nightmare, but with air conditioning, reclining seats (think Virgin Atlandic style sleepers), toilets and food and drink supplied, all was good. The bus left Valparaiso at 5pm and we were asleep by 11pm after watching Spiderman 2 (dubbed in English). We awoke at 7am and all that could be seen out of the window was desert, a mass of rocks and sand. We stopped briefly at Antafogasta to streatch our legs but other than that between waking at 7am and arriving at Calama at 3pm all we saw was rocks and sand. Amazing. We thought about staying in Calama for the night but as we were still energised and the town looked shit we pressed on to our intended final destination - San Pedro De ... read more
SanPedro1
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SanPedro4


6°jour Les Tallon partent pour le tour del Tatio, geysers et piscines naturelles absolument superbes mais avec un prix à payer, lever à 4 h du matin car les geysers ne fonctionnent vraiment que juste avant le lever du soleil, et ce sont au moins 3 heures de route… Nous restons sur San Pedro, lever un peu plus tardif qu’eux, nous partons en milieu de matinée vers le musée du Père Le Paige, missionnaire belge amoureux des cultures amérindiennes. Le musée est vraiment fantastique. Sa conception en étoile donne un espace intéressant et il y a des pièces très jolies comme l’orfèvrerie indienne, ou très impressionnantes comme ces momies conservées dans un endroit tellement sec que même les yeux sont encore là, séchés dans leurs orbites (Miam !) L’après-midi sera un peu plus sportif. Nous nous ... read more
La Quebrada del Diablo
La Laguna Cejar
La momie de Rascarcapac


4°jour Réveil un peu tardif, et premiers pas dans San Pedro, Tanguy nous montre le camping qu’il avait testé lors de son précédent voyage et nous (Agnès et Nico) émigrons donc pour le Sol Naciente. Le propriétaire s’appelle Don Umberto et il est adorable, nous avons accès à sa cuisine et notre tente est à l’ombre toute la journée, grand luxe… L’après-midi nous partons pour la Vallée de la Mort, Tanguy nous dépose en bas et nous montons à pied, les paysages sont superbes mais il souffle un vent à décorner les bœufs, et il est chargé de grains de sable (Nico gardera un souvenir dans l’œil droit jusqu’au lendemain matin) et nous sommes heureux de retrouver la voiture en haut. Départ immédiat pour la Vallée de la Lune, absolument splendide. Le grand amphithéâtre, les Trois ... read more
La Laguna Miscanti
Le salar d'Atacama
Agnes au debut de la vallee de la mort




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