Bill Shum

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Bill Shum, Unpaidbill.....Motorcycle riding in North, Central and South America. 70,000 kms from LA - South to Ushaia, Tierra del Fuego, Argentina, 'The End of the World' then back to LA, then up North to Deadhorse, Prudhoe Bay, Alaska, 'The Top of the World'. 18 countries, 35 border crossings, 15 months.
Next 53 weeks on a 47' catamaran from Grenada in the Carib, via Venezuela, Colombia, San Blas, Colon, a short side trip to my favourite country, Cuba, back to Panama, back onboard, off across the big blue Pacific, Galapagos, Marquesas, Tuomotus, Societys, Cooks, Tonga and Fiji where I bail.
Back to NYC then Kentucky, Panama, Cuba, Medellin, back to Kentucky, Dallas, Washington, NYC, Chicago, LA and back to Oz.
Bought 25 acres on top of a hill at Brogo, South Coast, NSW, Oz. and built a little house, couldn't settle....now living and working in Hanoi, Vietnam.

VENI, VIDI, BLOGI

Blog Early, Blog Often..........


The story so far.....


I was surrounded by family, friends and colleagues getting to my age (57) and too many succumbing to cancers, heart attacks or stressed about retirement funding. I took the title of the house to the bank and bought a motorcycle.

I flew my BMW 1150 GS Adventure from Melbourne to LA and rode into Mexico on the 1st July 2005.

With me at the start were 2 friends on similar bikes and we stayed pretty much together for the first 6 months until we got to Ushaia, Tierra del Fuego, after which I headed off on my own.

We tended to ride 3 or 4 days and then have a lay-day to wash sweaty stuff and just relax. Initially the culture shock was more a language barrier. I spoke survival level Spanish, my friends, nothing. By the end I was reasonably fluent.

Travelling through Mexico fairly quickly we slowed down in Central America, sampling many beaches along the way as my 2 surf oriented companions searched for the elusive Shangri La of surf mythology. I think they got close a couple of times as we covered Guatemala, El Salvador, Honduras, Nicaragua, Costa Rico and Panama, the end of the road South.

From Panama we shipped the bikes to Venezuela and after travelling around that unexpectedly wonderful country, headed south to Manaus in the Amazon Jungle in Brasil. A 5 day river boat ride took us down the Amazon to the coast and we followed the beaches down to Rio de Janeiro and Sao Paulo.

Cutting inland to the Igaucu Falls we crossed into Argentina, diverting into Uraguay (what a hidden treasure!) and then a ferry to Buenos Aires in Argentina.

We followed the East coast of Argentina, down through Patagonia, all the way down to Ushaia, ‘The End of the World’, in Tierra del Fuego. This latitude was quite a way south of the southernmost point of Australia. Seriously close to Antarctica. I enjoyed the 21 hours of daylight and the brilliantly stark snow covered mountains around. What a buzz to get here, one of the defining moments of this journey.

Riding off alone from Ushaia I travelled up through Western Argentina and Chile, over snow covered mountains, flooded rivers and rocky mountain roads, the alto-plano high desert of Bolivia, Machu Pichu in Peru, Ecuador (and a side trip to the Galapagos Islands) and on to Colombia.

After riding around Colombia I flew the bike to Panama, hitch-hiked on a small yacht through the Panama Canal, stopped in Bocas del Toro on the Caribbean coast to get my Scuba ticket, on to Costa Rico, back to some favourite places in Nicaragua, Honduras, El Salvador, Guatemala and back to Mexico and some diving in Baja.

I crossed back into the US on 9 June 2006 and after a few days in LA I headed off North.

Our original plan had been to fly out of Santiago, Chile after 6 to 8 months travel but I knew from the start that I would go all around South America, and after meeting several bike riders in Ushaia with stickers saying "‘Alaska -– Ushaia"’, I knew I was going to go all the way to the top.

One of my companions made it to Santiago, Chile and flew back, the other made it back to LA and flew back. I pressed on and made it to Fairbanks, Alaska, and then the last 800km ride out to Deadhorse on Prudhoe Bay, way inside the Arctic Circle, 24 hours daylight, ‘The Top of the World’. A similar, extraordinary buzz to that experienced in Ushaia at the other end of the Earth.

I took a ferry part of the way back from Alaska, the famous Inner Channel, surrounded by whales, orcas, seals, dolphins and unbelievable bird life, even moose, visible on shore, glaciers, snow capped mountains. I want to go back to Alaska, only in summer though!

While in Seattle I was fortunate to get a ride on another boat and went sailing for 3 weeks in the Canadian San Juan islands on a 48’ yacht. It’s a tough life!

Calling in to see my brother who has lived in Sun Valley, Idaho for 30 years I succumbed to an offer from one of his friends and sold my bike!
The last few weeks I travelled down to San Francisco, Las Vegas and LA, missing my bike but tired after all the travel and looking forward to getting home.

So much in 15 months, I was often overwhelmed by what I call ‘fantastic-scenery-overload’ and now, reading back through my blog, find it incredible that I got so far.

And I had a few spills, obviously not terminal, but no hassles with anybody, nothing lost or stolen and I got so much fabulously generous hospitality everywhere!

6 months back in Australia and I was ready to go back to anywhere in Latin America. I had completed a short course for teaching English so I sold the house and bought a ticket to Grenada, el caribe.

My brother had bought a 47’ catamaran and was sailing in the Caribbean so I flew to Grenada to join him for a month or two. One thing led to another and I stayed for 12 months and one week.

Grenada, Venezuela, Dutch Antilles, Colombia, San Blas Islands, Panama and the Canal. While the boat was in Panama I slipped over to Cuba for 4 weeks break. Then back on board and across the Pacific. The far islands of Galapagos, Marquesas, Tuamotus, Society (Tahiti, Bora Bora etc), Cook, Tonga and Fiji from where I flew back to New York.

New York for the third (and best) time. 4th of July, summer, holidays always so much to do and see. After 53 weeks on the yacht I was suffering withdrawal and went for a couple of boat trips, one by sail, on the East River. I met so many people this time, walked the Brooklyn Bridge and spent a day with the Henry Moore sculpture exhibition in the botanical gardens.
I found the most tiny restaurant, actually just the front room of a little house, in Brooklyn. I was the only customer and the owner/chef cooked me up a special lobster seafood bisque and we talked for several hours.

Finally I got to see Kentucky after hearing so much about it from friends in Australia. Staying with my friend David at his Mother’s house. Madeline is 90 and still going at it like a 30 year old. Endless fabulous meals including genuine southern fried chicken, peach, cherry and pecan pies. I also did a few days work with David’s boss Paul, an interesting man with an unusual business, designing, constructing and setting up garden railways.

By the end of July I was back in Cuba for another 4 weeks of that particularly different and fascinating country. Staying with my friend Natacha and her Mother in La Habana, renting a car and driving all over, catching up with old friends and meeting new ones. Looking at real estate, some bargains around but a near impossible process to get money into the country and buy something. Maybe later.

Back to Plan A and I was finally in Medellin, Colombia. A most fabulous city, wonderful people and the possibility of work teaching English. I travelled all over the city, riding the metro, walking the steep mountain-sided valley, off to the country and colonial towns, meeting my mate from Isla Fuerte and his friends.

Then I got the offer of more work in Kentucky and returned, putting Medellin on hold for now.

We left for Dallas, Texas to set up the railway for the Texas State Fair, a real big deal and a great opportunity for me to see more of the country. Then back to Kentucky, and work on new train sets for Washington, New York and Chicago in November.

The road trip, 3 weeks. First week in Washington DC, we set up in the Conservancy, right opposite the Capitol. We were there on election night, unbelievable experience. Then on to New York Botanical Gardens, it was starting to get cold. Then Chicago and it was really cold. Back in Kentucky some days it didn’t get above freezing. I’ve been to cold places but nothing like this. Living sub-zero. It hurt my teeth to breath. And it wasn’t even really winter.
Then the train from Cincinnati to LA. What a trip. And then back home for xmas.

Where to next? Ha, Good Question.

Took what was left after the GFC, bought 25 acres on top of a hill at Brogo, far south coast of NSW and built a little house....some understatement but that's another story. I couldn't really settle down and I couldn't afford to live in Oz, so now I'm living and working in Hanoi, Vietnam. And it's fantastic!






Travel Blog Posts


Hanoi annoy ahoy oi zoi oi

Published: October 15th 2011Asia » Vietnam » Red River Delta » Hanoi
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September 27th 2011

Well, how long can you wait?...is there anyone still out there?.....time for an update! Another perfect morning....5am and 1,000 pre-tumescent roosters rise as one....blood pressure building, neck veins standing out like David Parkin at three quarter time, then exploding across the neighbourhood as dawn's rosy crack appears through the mist coming off the Big Red River...probably a lethal concentration of toxic particulates, but I'll call it mist....I wonder what would happen if all these cocks crowed simultaneously?...you could probably hear it from the moon....and then there are the dogs and the caged birds etc etc..... I get to the market by 6am, some strange looking fish, as usual, but I'll take a punt....there are some pix here of the market people.... Rough, rutted roads make body parts, ill-concealed by local fashions, jiggle and shake with alarming ... read more



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April 14th 2011

Tet was pretty chaotic, well, the lead-up was absolutely chaotic, and in this city that's a big call! The fireworks on New Year's Eve were seen through a thick haze, some internal, some external. The closer ones we could see quite well, the further away ones, well.... Tet is the lunar new year by the Chinese calendar, although here it is claimed as local, and it's the year of the rabbit here, the year of the cat in China. There's a bit of an anti Chinese feeling here but quite subtle. No overly obvious sentient sentiment evident but by choice the locals seem to prefer buying things from anywhere rather than China. One curiously sleep-depriving feature of Tet is the karaoke machines, everyone has one and everyone gets a go, and all night. From the youngest ... read more



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January 21st 2011

Like a one-cheek sneak I slipped through the terrible oneway doors and into the no-mans land of the international departure lounge. Almost as surreal as the time travelers' portal in some scifi movie it transports one into the temporary purgatory wherein all manner of lost souls mingle and wander (along with their bruised metaphors), forced into a time dragging limbo, all in the same boat. I'm feeling among them but not of them. There's a universal sameness, not found anywhere else but consistent in all airports. Maybe it's the similar sameness of people going to Maccas all over the world, although their sameness is a shared lack of taste. But sharing the same sense of "just passing through" And time. Everything is based on time, departure time, arrival time, waiting time. Yet it is a curiously ... read more



the crickets are roaring

Published: December 16th 2010Oceania » Australia » New South Wales » Bega Valley
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December 13th 2010

Finally the photo fix...here you go...First the house and I'm happy to say it passed the final inspection!! We are IN!...then some back issue pix of Europe and Vietnam from the last wander. it's still difficult to reconcile with myself that I live in New South Wales, true it gives me the right to lay sh*t on my former state of Victoria, but to be a newsouthwelshman just doesn't seem right. And I'm suffering from not using the ipad, I'm back on the lappo and it doesn't have the same cuteness of the ipad which modifies, alters and corrects almost everything i write, such as capitalising i, for example!! I may have appeared a tad harsh in the last entry, for the things it does well , it does very very well, some of it's features ... read more



House arrest

Published: November 16th 2010Asia » Vietnam » Red River Delta » Hanoi
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November 7th 2010

Just when you thought he had finally gone for good.....well, the house is another story, and I will be back there very soon....but, for those who came in late.....I was just over in Germany to see Kate and Stephan, Hi Kids, thanks for the lovely time.... we went off to Berlin, about which I might write more some day, the whole writing thing has deserted me again, a few notes here and there but largely very litle (?). Anyway, Germany, Aachen is such a lovely little city, so old and cute but now the winter is coming and I'm just as happy not to be there in the snow and ice and stuff, acres of pretty rough cobblestones over which the women totter on their high heels, I reckon if they can get around Aachen on ... read more



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June 7th 2010

.....they're feeding them out of barred containers, the cows suck, chew, nibble and clutch at, the straws sticking through the bars, otherwise not very much has been moving except on the house site. And it seems to have been a blogwhile so...for those of you patiently waiting, here's a bit of an updato. ...it seems all my creative juices have been absorbed by the construction and all the associated efforts so I'll let the pix do the talking.....(I know some of you will appreciate this!) Progress has been rapid, problems overcome, fu*kups corrected (as much as possible!) and looking at it now it is hard to believe so much has been achieved by so few in such a short space of time.....truly amazing!! ...and another big storm last weekend, winds to 130 kph but only 120mm ... read more



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March 30th 2010

Even tho’ some computers invent their own viruses when they see another of my blogs coming…here it is…. Cows, lots of cows, relentlessly shuffling towards the milking shed. And not your old wooden-slat, bendy roof, iconic rural shed but an all-steel, concrete floored, gleaming, stainless steel pipes and tanks…and no-one in sight. It all looks somewhat authentically rural but it’s not. On closer inspection, like rolling down the window, the stench hits you. This is not your rich country smell of cattle and wet hay, of memories of Royal Show livestock sheds, of small farms of my youth, it’s unnatural, almost chemical, it stinks of something really off. This is the smell of 21st century mechanized, industrialized, milk manufacturing. The cows are like robots, cowbots?…the thick mud stinks, The dust was blowing into every crack ... read more



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December 22nd 2009

I sort of wake and roll over. The first pinky tinge is gathering strength on the hill horizon. Not long after I moved in to the caravan I was well over the narrow bunkish bed and built a frame, got a bed base from the Salvos and a Q-size mattress. It all fitted in with about a poofteenth to spare, believe me, this bed will not be getting out, and now I have built some cupboards and it is totally locked down. And the bed is right at window level. So, it means the bed is actually an infinity bed, or a horizon bed, you know? You look out to the edge and its just the wide open valley and the pink dawned hills to the east. 3 metres from the window my family of Eastern ... read more



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September 9th 2009

Two big bulls have been moved to the house paddock. They are looking forlorn…actually they’re looking ‘for lawn’ but it’s all frozen over. Maybe they are forlorn, it’s 5 degrees below zero and the ground is white to the horizon. But more depressing for these big guys is the disappearance of 95% of their job satisfaction. Nowadays everyone wants artificial insemination. These bulls are very placid, laid-back (or comatose?) occasionally picking at bits of grass and then just gazing, more gazing than grazing, blissed out or spaced out? They are big, reddy/brown and curiously furry, with low ears and a ragged topknot. Not your sleek, Aberdeen-Angus-Naugahide-look-a-likes, much furrier and no horns, which is always nice when they are up in the house paddock, a few metres from the veranda. Borne on a cold dawn. By 6.30 ... read more



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July 8th 2009

BROGO DREAMING Is there anyone left out there??……..Blog resurrected. In brief, for those of you who came in late, I got back to Australia, I mothballed the passport (for a while), bought some land and plan on building a house. The Kingdom of Billy is 25 acres (almost 12 hectares) on top of a hill in the middle of nowhere, it is really steep so I get fabulous views, I can even sea the Ocean, at Tathra, 20 kms away. If you’ve got Google Earth go to E 36 35 00 S 149 48 15 And the new phone is 0408 48 48 75 So there you go, I’ll try and get some photos up but it’s difficult to give a true picture of how it is. And my first video, does it work? But this ... read more






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