Blogs from Carretera Austral, Aisén, Chile, South America - page 6


South America » Chile » Aisén » Carretera Austral » Futaleufu January 28th 2009

River! The Futaleufu is a world class, big-water, glacier fed, turquoise and beautiful river that flows from the eastern side of the Andes in Argentina, but then swings backward from its natural easterly course and cuts the Andes in two by heading back to Chile and making a short and steep plunge to the Pacific. While not as long or deep as the Grand Canyon, the water and rapids in the Fu are of similar size. While not having any famous mountains nearby, the canyon systems of the valley are deep, green, forested valleys filled with glaciers and jutting volcanic peaks. It is a magnificent pastoral glacial valley. The Fu is also a precious remaining gem. Several of the biggest whitewater and wild rivers in Chile have been dammed over the past 50 years, and of ... read more
three nuns peak
on the trail
At the put in for the Rio Azul

South America » Chile » Aisén » Carretera Austral January 5th 2009

2009 began in fine style for us. After seeing in the new year with the family who run the hospedaje, some entertaining yanks and a couple of dutch cyclists in Tortel, we dragged ourselves out of bed after not enough sleep to take a boat through the fiords to join the Carretera Astral further south. We joined Carson, a cyclist from Germany, and together we rode three abreast on roads in much better condition than we were led to believe, safe in the knowledge that the road was ours alone until the next ferry 5 hours later. The temperature was perfect for cycling as the tailwind helped us on our way through a spectacular valley almost untouched by man save for the road flashing by beneath our wheels. Cycle thouring heaven! Just when we were thinking ... read more
Savouring the last couple of Km´s
End of the Carratera Austral
Cerre Torre, el Chalten

South America » Chile » Aisén » Carretera Austral December 29th 2008

After 3 days of feasting in Coyhaique we departed feeling rejuvenated with bulging panniers filled with our xmas treats. We left with a howling tail wind and almost sunshine. Just before we left town we popped into the ´Aysen - Reserva de vida´ information centre, to learn more about the ´SIN REPRESA´battle, and were lucky enough to find a very passionate American woman to answer all our questions in english. It´s such a emotive topic with the locals of Patagonia we have had many lengthy conversations about the dams but alas in Spanish and we were struggling to peice it all together. Chile lost ownership of it´s water rights when Pinochet had power, and now multinational companies plan to dam many remote and untouched rivers, including the captivating Rio Baker, a river we followed from it´s ... read more
Sick of bumpy roads
Down to the valley of death
Refugio Rio Ñadis

South America » Chile » Aisén » Carretera Austral December 27th 2008

Just a few photos, we might sort out a few words shortly. We are in the wee town of Cochrane, after some wonderful diverse days of riding and are keen to have our rest day at a interesting sounding isolated refugio down the road. So next town Totel - the town with no roads, well up until they went and built a road for us to cycle in on. On second thought only two photos, its painfully slow! We´ll do better next time promise. Christmas was great and all is good. Better hit the road.... read more
The cycling iron man

South America » Chile » Aisén » Carretera Austral December 21st 2008

When we first arrived in Chile 10 days ago, we were perhaps a little dissapointed as our expectations didn´t reconcile with what we found in Futeleufu. With our pantry almost empty we hoped to restock with food and fuel, but found shops to be few, small and with limited supplies. We talked with some Americans who were faced with the prospect of a 150km drive to the nearest petrol station on a near empty tank. Days later and still not with much in the way of maps and food, we met a British cyclist heading in the opposite direction. When we mentioned that we found the Chileans to be more reserved than the outgoing and friendly Argentinos he replied "yeah, they´re all c**ts down there" and all the towns were s**tholes. Armed with this knowledge we ... read more


South America » Chile » Aisén » Carretera Austral December 17th 2008

Well we obviously jinxed our vegetarian luck, with proclaiming our vegetarian sucess. That very night we had "lenteje and tocino" soup according to the picture filled with lots of veges, we found out afterwards tocino is pork fat! And it´s continued on that way as we blindly select foods from stalls and restaurants. Oh well! Waking up in a saturated tent and putting on yesterday´s soggy clothes, in order to ride another 60km´s of muddy roads in relentless rain isn´t a particularly enthusiasm enhancing experience. Things aren´t too bad once moving, but this sort of weather isn´t conducive to the long leisurely lunch breaks we have become accustomed to. Riding up a steep and rough hill, for 10km´s in the driving rain and glacial winds might not be the high point of our trip, but the ... read more
KJ and the Giant Gunnera
A bridge not far enough
Drowned rats

South America » Chile » Aisén » Carretera Austral December 15th 2008

A few days ago we departed Trevelin, Argentina and our lovely campsite amongst the fruit orchards that we had all to ourselves (well that was because it was still closed), and headed towards the hills to Paso Futaleufu. Named after the amazing milky green giant river that we followed into Chile, a world renown whitewater destination. We camped at a desserted old campsite, that had a thick coating of fine white grey dust, that we concluded was ash from the Chaiten Volcano (which is currently errupting). Unfortuanately this is as close to the volcano as we got, our ideas of passing through Chaiten the town and doing a wee loop round Chiloe got squashed when we learnt that Chaiten is still under evacuation orders, that have been in place since May! So unfortunately the isla of ... read more
Glacial goodness...

South America » Chile » Aisén » Carretera Austral December 13th 2008

Nach einer Zeit in absoluter Wildnis sind wir mittlerweile wieder halbwegs in die Zivilisation zurueckgekehrt. Wir haben das Abenteuer Carretera Austral gluecklich bei allerschoenstem, fuer diese Region untypischen Wetter ueberstanden. Dabei fing alles etwas holprig an. Ungeplant sind wir 5 Tage in Coyhaique geblieben, da bin mein kurz vor der Reise operierter Zahn ploetzlich wieder geaergert hat und ich zum Zahnarzt musst. Ein Glueck konnten mir Chus und Santi vom Hostal Las Salamandras mit einem guten Zahnarzt weiterhelfen (muchas gracias chicos!). Aber auch dieser Zahnarzt stand vor einem Raetsel und schickte mich zu einem sensationellen Spazialisten. Der loeste fuer ganze 30 Euro ein Problem, dass seit Jahren kein Arzt in der Schweiz oder in Deutschland gefunden hatte. Die Zaehne stehen falsch aufeinander und er musste sie abschleifen (ein Ergebnis meiner frueheren Zahnspange). Du... read more
Nina bei dem Aufstieg auf den Cerro Cinchao
Auf dem Gipfel des Cerro Cinchao
On the road..

South America » Chile » Aisén » Carretera Austral May 22nd 2008

Just four weeks before the ash, we were there, at these wonderful, unforgetable places. We love to travel in our cars on Chile and Argentina, enjoying such beautiful views and experiences. Our two models cars have been selected to support our trips, running on routes from highways to ranch roads and green lands. During the last ten years, traveling more than 250 000 kilometers, we've inspected an extensive portfolio of runways, lands, properties, facilities, carriers and attractions for barrier-free accessibility, so you can plan your itinerary with us to avoid any such difficulties. ... read more
VacSur08 352
VacSur08 353
VacSur08 354

South America » Chile » Aisén » Carretera Austral May 1st 2008

Ehrenamtliche Taetigkeit im Natural Park Pumalin Voluntary Work in Natural Park Pumalin 1. Allgemeines / Preface German: Ich habe es mir nicht nehmen lassen, einmal in die Welt der Wiederaufforstung der Regenwaelder in Chile reinzuschnuppern und einen Monat lang als Volunteer in einem Natural Park (Park Pumalin) gearbeitet. Es ist ein atemberaubend schoener Regenwald mit einer Flaeche von ca. 740'000 Hektar. Die jaehrliche Niederschlagsmenge betraegt hier ungefaehr 6'000 mm (im Vergleich: Die mittlere Niederschlagsmenge betraegt in Deutschland 830 mm pro Jahr). Der Park unterteilt sich in verschiedene Gebiete. Eines davon ist Vodudahue ( Dort werden 2 verschiedene Projekte verfolgt: Zum einen die Baumschule als Teil fuer die Wiederaufforstung der Waelder, in der ich auch gearbei... read more
Vodudahue 6
Vodudahue 10
Vodudahue 3

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