Fjords, spectacular glaciers.... and rain

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As the bus wound down the Carretera Austral from Chaiten towards Puyuhuapi, we were passing glaciers on our left one minute, crystal clear waters on our right the next, with the odd towering mountain chucked in just for good measure. It was all too good to be true, and 50km outside of Puyuhuapi, it started to rain. Really rain.

Arriving in town, the rain had let up, but the sky was still threatening more, so I was more than pleased when the tourist office recommended me a camping which was under a roof. Perfect. I set up camp, had a lovely cup of tea, then decided to go on the rather cheesy interpretative trail which the office had recommended.

Puyuhuapi is located at the edge of a fjord, and the first part of the walk took me along the waters edge, which was very nice. The bumpf from the office had a little description of what I was meant to look out for, so like a good little tourist, I read it throughly, and ood and ahhd at appropriate moments.

The final section of the trail was a walk up to a mirador, but on the way, the heavens opened again. I took shelter under a bush, and found out from my sheet that the berries were edible, so I tried one and found it very pleasant. I then realised I had missed the small print, and that anyone who eats these berries is destined to return to Patagonia at some point in their lives. So I ate another few berries just to make sure.

The rain showed no sign of letting up, so I plowed on upto the top of the hill, through muddy bogs, and becoming increasingly convinced this was a silly idea. Someone was looking out for me though, as when I reached the summit, the rain ceased, the sun popped its head out, and there was a lovely view of the town and the fjord.

The following day, I wanted to visit the glacier at the national park, 25km away. Unfortunately there were no buses, and a taxi was too expensive, so I took to the roads and waved my thumb about. It seemed to work too, as about 20 minutes later a couple of guys picked me up, and took me to within 2km of the entrance. I started walking the final 2km, when they came past again, and this time dropped me at the door.

Reaching the park, it seemed like it would be a wasted mission, as the whole place was shrouded in cloud. Nonetheless, being as I was here, I decided to chance the 3km walk upto the main lookout point. And I was very glad I did, as for the second time in 2 days, when I reached the top it had cleared, and was rewarded with the sight of an amazing blue glacier, with ice falling from it into waterfalls down the mountain into the rivers and lakes below.

After sitting and just watching the glacier for an hour whilst eating lunch, I descended and wandered round a couple of the other trails in the park, each of which led to another view of the glacier. Apart from one of them, which just went aimlessly into the wood for 100m, then aimlessly came back. I'd like to nominate that for the worst footpath ever award.

All glaciered out, and knowing I needed to get a lift back to town, I left the park at about 5pm. Unfortunately, I found a rather large group of Israelis at the park entrance, also trying to hitch into town. Deciding that by staying with them I had no chance of a lift, I started walking. It was very lucky I did too, as I passed the building site I was orginally dropped off at earlier, and the same 2 guys were just heading back into Puyuhuapi.

Back at the campsite, a large Chilean family had arrived, and as I was eating at the same time as them, they invited me to help them with their wine, which I obviously accepted. I then nipped out for a cheeky beer with Carl, a biker heading south who I'd originally met in Futaleufu. I've definitely come across more cyclists in the last week than I have in the rest of my trip to date.

Anyway, after the beer, I went back to the campsite again, and the family had more wine, so I settled in for the evening. Once again, the phenonemom of my Spanish improving after wine struck, and talk turned to my travel plans. When I said I was heading to Coyhaique (some 220km south) tomorrow, they happily announced thats where they were going too, and they had a spare seat in their car. That's my kind of hitchhiking, having a nice evening next to a warm fire, drinking wine and getting a lift. Sitting in the cold and rain waving my thumb about can wait for now.

From Coyhaique,

Stewart

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