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Published: March 10th 2009
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I left you with me getting a lift at 8pm from Rio Tranquilo, and I promised adventure. I hope what follows will live upto your expectations.
The first section of the journey was devoid of adventure, but full of amazing views. As we'd made such a late start, we got to see the sun setting over the lake, which was really something. Signs of the downpour last night were definitely evident though, as a couple of times we had to slow down, as the road had turned into a river. The slow progress meant we arrived at Puerto Guadal, just past the crossing for Chile Chico, at around 10.30pm.
Here, we stopped to get a bite to eat, as none of us had eaten earlier as we weren't sure when our lift would arrive. It was also here that we heard that the road to Chile Chico was indeed blocked. We wouldn't be getting there tonight it seemed. More bad news followed, in that because the road was blocked, all the rooms in Guadal were taken, and we were advised to drive 30km to a nearby town Mallin Grande.
Mallin Grande is not a very big place at
Roadblock
Which we climbed over! all, and when we arrived just after 11, it seemed pretty much dead. I had horrible visions of having to get out my tent, which was still not completely dry after last nights soaking. But my Carretera luck struck once again, as we spotted the proprietors of the village shop shutting up. After we (or rather the others) explained our situation, they offered us a room in their house for the night, and on top of that gave us tea, bread, jam and fishcakes. Yet another example of the generosity of the people of the Carretera.
The next day, we made an early start, and after a telephone call (which I presumed was to check whether the road was clear) we were on our way, therefore, I guessed whatever had caused the problems had been cleared up overnight. Imagine my surprise then, when we arrived at a point in the road where a huge landslide had made it impossible to pass. But then the true nature of the call was explained to me. A friend of the drivers, who also worked at Chilean customs, was coming to pick us up at the other side, and all we had to
do was walk across.
Therefore, I picked up my bags, and headed onto the landslide. This was it! I was crossing the unpassable road, I was storming the barracades, I was crossing the Berlin Wall, I was.... standing in rather a large pile of mud. That's one way of stopping me daydreaming. The connection worked out though, and we carried on towards Chile Chico. I was now in a car with 2 customs officials, and just a week before I'd been talking with people that had brought contrabrand garlic across the border (accidentally). I shifted nervously in my seat.. maybe I was compicit in their crime?
An hour, and yet more incredible views later we arrived in Chile Chico, and just 3 hours later I was back in Argentina, my adventure on the Carretera Austral complete. Apart from the slightly dodgy weather, I really enjoyed it, and the people I've met here have definitely been amongst the kindest, and most generous, of my trip so far. And thats saying nothing of the simply incredible scenery.
Stewart
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