Blogs from Mar del Plata, Buenos Aires, Argentina, South America

It is reasonably common for us to be the most mature guests in the hostels we have visited. However, we have not been the oldest guests. That honour goes to a very nice South African couple we met in Bariloche. They are driving their fully equipped Land Rover from Ushuaia to Alaska and they have already conquered the Capetown to Norway route. While we were chatting over lunch one day I was curious to know if they had observed any of the ‘quirks’ I had seen on our short travels so far. The answer was a resounding ‘yes’ and so we spent some time laughing and sharing stories. Here are a few observations that I hope will make you smile just as they did for us. If you can produce a corkscrew you will have friends ... read more

After a nerverending flight- sat right in front of some woman who WOULDN'T STOP throwing up- I finally touched down on South American ground. At last the realisation struck me that I was indeed going to be spending the next half year here and that-like it or not- there was no turning back! After passing through customs I followed an Argentinians advice and booked a taxi, also known as a "remise" before leaving the airport. Apparently, the taxi drivers lingering outside are keen to rip you of and like to take you on the scenic route to your destination as soon as they realise that you are a tourist and don't have a clue of where you are let alone where you are going. So I handed over my $135 pesos of ny freshly changed money ... read more

First delivery of what hopefully become a vast part of my blog Buenos Aires, Monday March 1st, 2010 Arrival in BA after a flight that lasted 10 hours and which gave us the wrong local time, landed on a busy airfield with slow but efficient control. Taxi to hotel over wide and not overly busy highway to inner town, almost European like with music and coffee/sandwich bars everywhere. Hotel somewhat different than expected, almost Spartan rooms but good beds, ample ablution facilities, fairly quiet at night. First impressions of the town are very positive, helped by a lovely breakfast after 9AM in café at the corner with friendly, helpful service. At night music and lively patronage until well after 12. Next day sight-seeing on topless bus, metro train-ride (fast and cheap), window shopping etc. Friday ... read more

Well, I now have 23 days left in Argentina. Just typing that made my eyes well up with tears. I am writing this entry in tears. How can you not love this country? Ryan and I went to Mardel with Camila and stayed with her family this weekend, and it made me so sad because I had to say goodbye to Camila this morning since she's staying at her house until the end of July for winter vacation. After a very tearful goodbye at the bus station, we were off. Camila said she wasn't going to cry because she was sure we would see each other again. We said "chau" and "nos vemos" instead of "adios," but as the bus pulled away, we saw her put her head down and cry. I had a good 5 ... read more

The Argentinians are a resourse responsible species. This may be a result of the the localised financial crisis of 2001 when the government froze (and spent) the personal savings deposits of its citizens in last ditch attempt to circumvent bankruptsy. So long as an item is functional, (and I use that term very loosely), it appears that it will not be replaced. An example of this would be the toilet seat in our Aparto in Mar Del Plata. Due to a broken hinge, plastic jaws would literally bite you unsuspecting on the trusero! There was also the case of the majic toilet paper roll, which we strongly suspected had fallen accidently into the toilet bowl, (then been dried-out and re-hung), given the tell-tale discoloured water marks, the perilous squeeze of the recepticle itself to the wall, ... read more

Theoretically, South America is the perfect place for your body to have to get over jet lag: lunch at 3pm; dinner at midnight; where the nightclubs don´t kick off until 2am; and afternoon siestas are a way of life. The reality, however, is quite different. Waking up any time from three in the morning, I find myself staring out my bedroom window hoping to see the faintest of light approaching the horizon, but there is none. After pretending to sleep for an hour or so more, I have by now woken Geoff, and we decide to grab some breakfast. We walk down to ´Centro´- down town Mar Del Plata, passing numerous bars and nightclubs, still throbbing with music, and find a cafe. With barely a twinge of hunger, we order the set breakfast, which we lament ... read more