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Sea sickness
Laura and I enjoying the first few minutes of the ferry ride...there's a reason why carnival rides don't last for an hour! Tramping: this is a New Zealand word that translates relatively to 'hiking/camping'. Except, people in New Zealand really know how to tramp in style!
It works like this: an organization called the DOC (which stands for the department of conservation) makes hiking trails across the country. I'd equate the DOC with the FBI, because it seems like they have the most authority in the country! On the trails they maintain, they build 'huts', which are cabins, sometimes with running water, fire wood, and bunk beds! Camping in a tent is also possible, because they charge 5 or 10$ to use the huts. Since I don't have a tent, and I like my fire and water, I opted to stay in the huts.
So, Laura and I have been camping New Zealand style for the last four days!
We set out on our expedition to Stuart Island at 7:30am on Thursday morning. Stuart Island is the southern most part of New Zealand, an island an hour off the coast. Like usual, we were running a bit late; the ferry was leaving in 45 minutes, and we'd be pressed to be there on time. Just my
Village Cat
I make friends with the village cat while buying matches in the store...and forgetting to buy candles to go with the matches! luck, it happened to be pouring rain, so driving any faster then 110 seemed like a bad idea. However, when I didn't see the flashing red flashing lights for the train track, saw the train about five meters away, 110 seems pretty fast when I'm slamming on the brakes. We skidded to a stop, just over the white line, and left a good deal of my tires on the road. Mmm...burning rubber. To my humiliation, I realized the train was traveling at about two inches a minute. The driver was laughing and waving me to go across the tracks. I hate mornings, and I hate the rain, and right then I hated camping too. At least we weren't train food, and I remembered to wrap all of my clothing in plastic bags like a good girl scout.
Thankfully we made it to the ferry in time for departure. It was still raining, and the sea was really rough. I didn't sleep very well the night before because people in the hostel had told us they almost canceled the ferry yesterday due to high winds. Halfway to the island I almost wished they HAD canceled our ferry because it
Kiwi birds
I'm going to be on the lookout for the elusive kiwi bird! (Unfortunately, this is actually as close as I came to one.) was like riding "ocean motion" at the fair. People were vomiting over the side, and putting ear plugs in one ear (apparently this helps, although I'm not sure why??), only the kids seemed to be having a good time!
When I got off the boat the world seemed like a better place. I was given free Anzac cookies (which I enjoyed despite the fact they tasted like coconuts), the sun was shinning, and I made friends with Kobu (the village cat). All of this amounted to good omens for hiking! We were also starting in good time to make it to the hut before dark.
The walk was incredibly beautiful. Similar to walking in the old growth forests in BC. However, here it's slightly warmer, with a sea breeze, and the trails dip in and out of the forest, and along the beaches. Plus there are awesome swing bridges over the rivers, and steps that the DOC builds when the mountains get too steep. Its sunny and warm, basically the perfect conditions for hiking. I was on the lookout for the illusive kiwi bird, which is apparently very shy, and also seems to be very ugly.
Trekking
The trail wound along the beach, with stunning views the entire day. In fact, I'm not quite sure why I'm on the lookout for the kiwi bird because it can't fly or swim or even walk very well, it has a horrible voice, and looks like a ball of fluff with a pointy beak and sticks with claws. It's lucky it has no predators because these birds would go the way of the dodo for sure!
Although we saw no one the whole day (and no kiwi birds either), when we got to the first hut it was a completely different story; people were having a party! Some hunters and fishers were on a stag two-week bush vacation, and they had driven all their gear in on a boat. It was hilarious. There was a possum catcher, a sheep farmer, a 16 yr old boy who wanted to be a plumber, and about eight other equally interesting people ranging from an accountant to the DOC. They were all here to hunt deer and catch fish, and made use some superb venison stew and fresh fried fish for supper. Here I am carrying a little gas burner and instant soup mix, and these guys just rock out some venison stew! I'm
Fire making skills
Mmmmm...I learned I don't have good firemaking skills. definitely down with doing more tramping in New Zealand!
The hunters also had luxuries like a gas lamp, so we played hearts late into the night. Late tramping standards = around 11pm). They told me all about the different kinds of fish, what a paua is (a kind of beautiful clam), and how to spot a kiwi bird. When we left early in the morning I was sorry to see them go and wished I could stay and fish in the sun all afternoon.
Although the walk to the next hut was supposed to take six hours, we did it in four and a half. Maybe we should have taken six, because by the time I sat down I realized my butt and calves were trobbing. It was good that we arrived early, because I had time to do some much needed yoga in the sun before attempting to chop firewood. I decided I don't really have any wood chopping skills; so it's a good thing I don't want to become a bushman when I grow up! After 45 minutes of chopping wood, I had about six pieces, and very sore arms.Thankfully, the people before us
Dinner making skills
Laura says I look like a prisonner. Mmm...instant pumpkin soup. had left some dry wood inside, otherwise it would have been one heck of a cold night.
It's surprisingly easy to light things on fire when you don't want them to burn, however it's surprisingly difficult to make a good quality fire when your cold and it's getting dark. Like not so good girls scouts, we had forgotten to bring any paper to start the fire with. So, after an hour of multiple tries, using my soup boxes, and some dried grass, we were frustrated but at least warmer from trying so hard. Eventually we succeeded by using my trail map to start the fire (again, I wouldn't recommend doing this). I also made a secret promise to the fire gods that I would pay for using the huts when I got back. (I had convieniently forgotten to do this before leaving, because apparently the DOC just slap you on the wrist if they catch you without a pass). I actually did pay for the huts when we returned so as never to incur the wrath of the fire gods again!
Unfortunately, along with firestarters, I had also forgotten to pick up some candles (although at
Entertainment
Cards by torchlight. least I remembered matches and a lighter!). By six pm it was pitch black, so we hung a torch from the ceiling and made supper on the wood stove. I taught Laura gin rummy because we wanted to stay up as long as possible so our fire wouldn't die. We couldn't make it past ten oclock, and our fire died at 2am. Thankfully, we had made the hut pretty hot and I started the fire again at two without much trouble. A couple more nights of this and I'll be a pro star tramper! (Maybe).
Now, I'm back safe and sounds in Invacargill and really happy to have a hot shower! The last night it rained, so in the morning the trail was a giant mud pond, except not so much fun as a giant mud pond would actually be. Tommorow Laura and I are going to the swimming pool. They have a steam room, a hot tub, a water slide, and it only costs three dollars!
Overall, however, I'd mark this down as one of the better camping experiences. Mom, I even think you would enjoy doing this for a few days! Sadly, Laura is
Phone Call
I tried to call you from the bush mom, but I couldn't get any reception. heading off to Dunedin the next day, and I think I'm going up to Te Anau because apparently you can go kyaking under spectacular waterfalls.
A week and half left until the ski season start...where is the snow? I did my snow dance...snow snow snow...tra la la...snow snow snow! Maybe I should make a deal with the snow gods too...maybe if it still isn't snowing by the end of next week!
xoxo
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Laura
non-member comment
Good story!
Hee Erin, how are you? I am sitting in a library in Dunedin as you recommended me, unfortunately it's only for research (not mailing..)..!Dispite this I can go to this site! And I think I will refer everyone at home to this link!! Great! I am oke. Dunedin is a nice place, reminds me a little (little..little...) bit of my hometown (Amsterdam). A Candian girl, Liz, picked me up in 5 minutes and drove the whole way to Dunedin. I am alsoo invited to come to her place wednesday. Such a nice people...Canadian people! Hihi! Did you like Queenstown? What are your next moves? Thursday, I am going to Aomaru. I didn't buy the busticket from the German girls...they wanted to have 200 dollars for it! My camera still doesn't work. I thought maybe the fresh chocolate air from Dunedin would 'cure' him... Enjoy your last free weeks!!! We'll keep in touch! Greetz!x Laura