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Tongariro Crossing
Volcanic fumaroles around the Emerald Lakes from the top of the crossing. Excitement is in the air..... A camping we will go, A camping we will go, High Ho the Derry-O, A camping we will go! And what a place to do so! Great roads, abundant camp spots, friendly humor loving locals, ease of English language, and jaw dropping beauty! New Zealand is a place to get out and explore, marvel at nature, and challenge yourself to anything from hiking, to biking to paragliding and so much more. In our way too short, 3 week campervan trek from north to south across the country, we managed to rack up a whole slew of notables. There were:
Over 1600 miles driven, countless round-abouts, at least 27 never seen before bird species, 25 gorgeous trails hiked, 16 different camp spots, 15 modes of transportation utilized, more than 10 swinging bridges crossed, 5 summits climbed, and 1 full arch rainbow to cap off the end of our trip. Through it all, Matt was my fearless driver, taking on right hand drive over curvy narrow roads, numerous one lane bridges and through the most beautiful scenery the world has to offer. Our camp spots, in order, were Auckland, Rotorua, Tongariro National Park, Paraparaumu, Wellington, Pelorus Bridge, Punakaiki, Okarito,
Surprise visitor!
This little South island Tomtit found a comfy place to land and survey the surroundings Franz Josef Village, Haast, Wanaka, Queenstown, Manapouri, Milford Sound, Te Anau, and lastly Frankton to catch a flight back to Auckland and the USA.
A few fun discoveries to share:
· E-bike touring is an awesome way to learn about a big city and stretch your legs after a long flight
· New Zealand was one of the last inhabited places on earth – only 800 years since the first big canoe paddled in from Polynesia. As a result…
· Many birds in NZ haven’t yet developed a fear of humans and hence their sense of space is much closer than those in the USA. In the forest, they’ll flit right past your face and hop around your feet looking for insects. In fact, one little South Island Tomtit hopped right onto Matt’s head! (see photo)
· The echoing sound of the Tui and Bellbirds in the lush forests are pure joy.
· The amazing mountain scenery in NZ comes from volanoes in the North Island and from tectonic plate collisions followed by glacial shaping in the South Island. Very different in every way.
· Following in little Frodo’s footsteps to
Our campervan
Just big enough to stand up, stretch out when sleeping, and carry all our necessities while still being maneuverable around New Zealand's twisty narrow roads. Mordor feels like just as much of an achievement for me as it appeared to be for him. We climbed Devils Staircase to summit 2 volcanoes and then make our way steeply downhill past emerald lakes, cloudy fumaroles and sweeping views. And I only lost 1 toenail along the way!
· The South Island rain forests are a result of warm ocean air rising up the mountains, condensing and then flowing down the mountain to create a lush environment with amazing ferns, trees, and mosses. Very unique and our favorite place to hike. Ahhh, the fresh air on my face……
· There are no native mammals or snakes in NZ. Eradication of predatory stoats, rats and other non-native mammals is serious business here. Cage traps are as ubiquitous as the birds they’re trying to save.
· Sheep dogs are amazing! Intelligent, loyal and love to work.
· Deer are being farmed in NZ in large quantities! We saw numerous deer farms. Looks strange to see pens of hundreds of deer aside fields of sheep or cows. People come from all over to hunt the big red stags and the velvet on their antlers is harvested for
Scenic Byways
Beauty is around every corner of travel medicinal uses in Asia.
· Dairy is a big business in NZ. Much of it run by the Chinese and processed and sent to China. We saw a huge dairy processing plant in Hokatika, owned by the Chinese government (according to local sources).
· NZ charcuterie is the best! Local wines and cheeses, beetroot relish, even local pate, olives and crackers are abundant. Yummm – my nightly wind down treat.
· The California Pine is grown in large tracts across the mountains in NZ. It grows faster here in NZ than it does in California. It is harvested and sent primarily to Japan. We saw what seemed like a mile of containers of logs ready for shipping in Wellington and numerous huge mountainside areas where forests were cut and then replanted with the same kind of trees.
· The “green” party has a strong voice in NZ politics. I sense that there is a tension between environmental sustainability and economic development in New Zealand.
· Much of NZ seems to be culturally about 30-40 years behind the USA. It felt less crass, more soft on the edges than the USA, and loads safer. Even the
Summit in Okarito
Beautiful walk through lush green forest filled with resonating bird sounds. At the top there's a fantastic view of Mount Cook and Franz Josef glacier as well as beautiful beaches. One of my favorite hikes. background music we heard in shops and cafes seemed to be heavily weighted toward the 70’s and 80’s.
· How does their park service come up with the estimated time it takes to complete a hike? Matt and I would walk swiftly and then congratulate ourselves if we came even close to the predicted time for the hike.
· When something is called a “Trig” hike or a “Summit” hike, be prepared for lots of sweat! But also, epic views.
· Once you get over a fear of walking off a cliff, paragliding is like being a free bird soaring on the wind
· Those New Zealanders are an active bunch. Everywhere we traveled, people were out jogging or biking or even sculling and paddleboarding in some places.
· It’s fun to say “Kia ora!” It just rolls off the tongue. And fun to say to Kiwis and watch them smile.
What was the best thing about this trip? Without a doubt, the lovely people we met along the way. Aside from the awesome sights and activities, life in a campervan can be a holiday in itself. Cooking dinner in
Somewhere over the rainbow....
Skies are blue and the dreams that you dare to dream really do come true. a community kitchen along with multiple travelers from all around the world is super interesting. There was meal creativity to be admired and so many lively conversations. It doesn’t take long to find something in common and share a laugh. It reminds me once again how small and connected our world really is.
My only regret? Not enough time. Stewart Island and Abel Tasman Nat Park are reason enough to plan another trip to New Zealand. But isn’t this the way it always is with travel? The more you know about a place, the more you want to know. However, the world is big and I consider myself incredibly blessed to have seen so much of it while longing to see more and more. With a mind and heart bursting from the joy of learning about and experiencing New Zealand, I am already dreaming of my next destination. I can hear the birds of the Amazon softly tweeting in my head…….
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