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Published: January 2nd 2011
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Tuesday - 11/23/10
After a rather leisurely breakfast on the front porch of the Victorian Charm Inn (which isn't actually old, but is rather charming), I headed out for Bryce Canyon. A few miles down the road a large metal dinosaur caught my eye. Photo-opt! While snapping some photos, a gray-bearded, tooth-missing, 60-something year old fellow in yellow overalls stepped out of the shop and encouraged me to go in. I asked a few questions about the stones (minerals? gems?) I've been looking at. He walked off; I walked in. The blasted sandstone (not 'doggone,' but sandblasted...), figurines, and jewelry were beautiful, and interesting. Somehow, I made it out without purchasing a thing, and in no more than 15 minutes. Phew!
It's about 75 miles from Kanab to Bryce. An easy drive north on 89, then east on 12. I had to laugh as I passed "Tod's" - the convenience store I landed at after dark the night before my flight to Houston - the store where all eyes were on me as soon as I walked through the door, and stayed on me while I talked to the clerk and as I walked back to my car. I
was tired and ready to stop for the night and the store clerk told me I'd have to drive 60 more miles - desolate miles - all the way to and thru Zion National Park before I'd get to any accomodations. For whatever reason, I ignored the clerk, drove straight instead of taking the right she recommended, and found a place just a few miles down the road. What was that about?! Odd. Very odd. When I relayed this event to a few people some time later, they made various comments about Oddville and the Mormons who live there. Hmm.
The drive to Bryce was largely uneventful - few cars on the road and some pretty spectacular views. I could feel the temperature dropping and could see the sky darkening as I continued toward the canyon. When I got to the gate, the ranger was quick to tell me the storm was coming and I probably didn't have time to see the park. Unwilling to accept that as truth, I went to the visitor center for a second opinion. "Head to the end, then work your way back. If it gets bad, just come right back without stopping at
the overlooks." Seemed like sound advice. Off I went.
The elevation continues to climb as you head through the park. More than 7000 ft, then over 8000 feet, close to 9000 feet eventually. When I got to the farthest away overlook and climbed out of the Jeep, it was clear I needed more layers - it's amazing how quickly you can get thermals on when you have to!). I wrapped a scarf around my face and headed to the edge with camera in hand. It was so cold I could I thought I might get frostbite just from the few seconds my fingers were exposed to snap a shot. But...it was GORGEOUS! I'd never seen anything quite like it. Well...it did remind me a bit of the Badlands in South Dakota, but different. This time, I was above, looking down on the spikes and spires - and this time, everything was covered with a thin layer of snow. As I had several other times on this trip, I felt I was looking down into the set of an episode of the old Star Trek series.
The park was pretty empty (not too many fools 'pushing on' ignoring the
weather) and the sky actually become less ominous looking as the day progressed. I was SO glad I hadn't heeded the warning of the Ranger who would have had me turn back at the gate.
I did get to get out and walk a bit here and there, but the conditions kept me from walking too far. I did venture down one trailhead - but after slipping and sliding for a bit, and realizing the sun was headed for the horizon, I turned around and headed back up to the top. Some day I'd like to go back hike around. It really is a place worth seeing!
No regrets...at least I got there.
The drive back from Bryce had its own challenges, and the second major "OOPS" of the trip.
I wasn't sure whether I wanted to drive all the way back to Kanab, or spend the night closer to the park. If I stayed closer to the park, I thought, perhaps I'd have better weather in the morning and try to do a little hike. I checked out the two hotels near the park entrance, and decided I just didn't want to spend what I'd have
to (all this trying to travel on the cheap is sort of a drag - fun in its own way - but a challenge at times!). Just as I thought I'd just head back to Kanab, I was one more motel. Looked quite empty and I thought perhaps they'd rather have some money than none and would offer a good price. No such luck. Not only was the rate ridiculous (could've stayed in a nice place for what they wanted), but when I got back in the Jeep and started to drive away I head an awful noise.
NOTE: Over-hangs are not always level and just because you fit on the way in doesn't mean you'll fit on the way out. Bummer...I thought I had only dinged the overhang (the clerk was concerned about that - concerned enough to come out and take a look, but not concerned enough to help me fix the rack and my bike which was now perpendicular to the roof of my car!)
At some point on the drive to Kanab I heard an odd sound on the roof of my car. I pulled over but didn't see anything wrong. I heard it again.
I got out again and found a "C" battery. Couldn't imagine what it was from, tossed it into the front seat, and drove on.
NOTE: When odd things appear on the roof of your car, investigate!
The next day I again heard an odd noise on the roof of my car. I checked it out and found a nut and bolt.
Some day later I realized that I didn't only nick the wood overhang, I wrenched my handlebars, broke my reflector and my battery operated headlight, and knocked the bike rack loose. Oops! But more about that in some later entry.
I got back to Kanab, checked back into the Parry Lodge, had some dinner, and went to bed feeling eager to spend the next day at Best Friends Animal Shelter.
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