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Published: November 30th 2010
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First Look into the Canyon
White House Ruins Trailhead; 9/28/10 Okay folks - I won't make any promises about this blog thing. Not sure what I'm doing. Not only have I never written a blog, I'll sheepishly admit I haven't even ever read one. But...more than two months into this road trip now, details float into and out of my head and at times I find myself wishing I'd been a bit more consistent about journaling and leaving a trail of where I've been, who I've met, what I've seen or thought. It's not that I haven't paused to jot down notes and thoughts here and there. To be sure, among my things I now have a pile of bev naps, paper scraps, and perhaps a dozen or so pages scattered through three or four different notebooks - each with stray thoughts, pieces of stories, names and places, maybe a title or two for books I'll likely never write. Perhaps some day I'll collect them and piece together a more detailed journal of this adventure. For now, I'll just start where I am and make an effort to jot down at least a few words every day or so. I've so appreciated the emails I've received and know many of you
have wanted more frequent updates from me. So...here goes.
It's November 30th. I'm sitting in "Java Love" - a "local's" coffee shop in West Sedona. Very Northampton-esque...laptops, long hair and dreds, fleece, make-up-less faces. It's Tuesday morning and the shop is buzzing and no-one seems to be running off to a 9 to 5 job.
Can't yet tell you much about this area. As has been my custom, I arrived in the dark last night. Each day I tell myself I'll try to end my travels for the day before dark, and yet, surprise, surprise, various things catch my eye, conversations caputure my attention, and time goes by and again I find myself driving in the dark.
The night before last, while stopped for something to eat after a long, dark, partially snowy drive from Canyon de Chelly (pronouced "shay"), I was told that the drive into Flagstaff was beautiful and I really ought to do it in the daylight. I checked into a Travelodge in Holbrook, Az. Surely this option wasn't nearly as fun, interesting, inexpensive as staying in one of the hogans I saw at a campground in the canyon ("Hogan" - traditional Navajo dwelling,
The hike
White House Ruins Trail; Canyon de Chelly sort of like a yurt), but I had made the decision to move on after spending a night and a day in Canyon - and now it made sense to call it a day and continue on in the morning. But the morning turned into the afternoon...
After a slow morning at the Travelodge breakfast table - checking weather forcasts, looking for reasonably priced accomodations in Sedona, reviewing camping and lodging options in and around the Grand Canyon - I finally got in my car and headed for the Painted Desert and Petrified Forest. I was right there. Couldn't drive away without seeing these sites!
The painted desert was lovely - though admittedly I wasn't awed in the way I have been with so many other sites on this trip. Perhaps it was the overcast sky (surely the colors are more vibrant under sunny skies), perhaps with was the similarity to other vistas I've had the good fortune to see over the last few weeks. But the petrified forest, well...not sure why, but I was truly moved by the huge trees turned to stone - to gems. The thought of something buried alive so to speak, then resurfaced
Tunnel
White House Ruins Trail - not damaged but stronger, transformed, intricate, textured, layered, and stunningly beautiful. Amazing. Moving.
During my visit at the Forest, I ran into a lovely couple from Toronto who I had met the day before at Canyon De Chelly. It was like old friends bumping into each other on the street - such a warm greeting and hug! There really is something special about connecting with strangers on the road. We chatted a bit then parted - though not before Barry saying something about them heading to Winslow Arizona to stand on a corner. I must have looked confused. He mentioned 'Eagles' - I thought (sports team?) - then it came together...Take it Easy! Then, darn it, the song wouldn't stop playing in my head. When our paths crossed again at the visitor center a short while later, I gave Barry grief for putting the song in my head then the three of us decided we'd meet at that corner in Winslow for a photo then a drink somewhere. And so we did. I even got to stand in the Flat Bed Ford parked at the corner!
After the photos, I followed Mary and Barry (we finally exchanged
Hogan
Traditional Navajo dwelling. This one - at bottom of Canyon de Chelly - occupied by elderly Navajo woman. names!) to their hotel. What a surprise and a treat! La Pasada. Check it out on the internet. It's gorgeous - and a great story. Designed by Mary Colter in the 1930s - beautiful building, beautiful artwork inside, lovely guitar music filling the air. I knew taking this time would mean driving into Flagstaff - and onto Sedona - in the dark - but so worth it! It was truly delightful talking and having a drink with such wonderful company in such a lovely place.
The drive to Flagstaff was easy enough, and from Flagstaff to Sedona not terribly difficult, but a bit odd. I couldn't see a thing - other than the signs telling me about steep grades and sharp curves. I could feel tall things were on either side of me - trees, ledge, canyon walls. The temperature fluctuately pretty wildly on the drive: 34, 6, 27 - up the canyon, down the canyon. I couldn't help but wonder what the road must be like by the light of day. It was nice to know that I'd have the chance to see/experience that at some point over the next few days. Then, finally, lights!
I have come
White House Ruins
Bottom of Canyon de Chelly; 9/28/10 to love that moment after driving in the dark when the lights of a town in the distance come into focus. There's a sort of fun lift that happens - a cheerfulness, a sense of relief or uplift, or something...
My host of the night (a massage therapist who rents out a room in her house for short term stays) had given me excellent directions and I found my turn easily - the the next. As I made my way down Ven Deren Rd, a stone buddha caught my eye - this had to be it. She hadn't mentioned the buddha, but it just felt so right. And sure enough...#540.
I let myself in, locked the door behind me, stepped into the lighted bedroom (all as we had discussed). Warm, cozy, comfortable, sleep came easily.
So there you have it. I've written this entry, had my coffee, and now I'm off to explore Sedona.
No specific plan but expect I'll take a hike or two, wander among the red rocks, canyons, and perhaps experience a vortex or two. It's nice to be setting out for the day already knowing where I'll sleep tonight (back at Michelle's). Hmm.
Hiking Up
Ascent from bottom of Canyon de Chelly White House Trail. Mary and Barry; 9/28/10 Maybe I'm ready to have more of a base and little less one-day-at-a-time traveling. We'll see.
Haven't yet figured out how to insert photos where I want them...guess you could tell that, eh?!
More soon.
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Judy
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Thanks
Hey, thanks for all the lovely photos. Blogging about your travels is a great idea. That way we don't have to wait till you get back to see the pics and hear the stories. Keep those entries coming. xxoo