Blogs from Oaxaca, Oaxaca, Mexico, North America - page 35

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North America » Mexico » Oaxaca » Oaxaca November 3rd 2006

The third entry and last of the cemetaries. Setting off at about two, we saw plumes of smoke coming from the university area. A woman we passed urged caution as "people were being rounded up." We were heading in the opposite direction, to the northern edge of the city and the tiny cemetary of Sn Filipe del Agua. It, too, was bustling, but in an more familiar, everybody-knows-everybody, small town kind of way. We sat on the massive knarled roots of a huge tree, just watching families go about their business, arm-loads of flowers. Sweeping, washing, making flower crosses and hearts, a few painting. A group of kids playing a roudy game of tag. One pair, obviously brothers. The older, concerned about his younger brother, kept yelling "Goose! Dame la mano!" And you would see Goose ... read more
Decorating a grave
Simple crosses
More decorating

North America » Mexico » Oaxaca » Oaxaca October 31st 2006

Not to be confused with Dias de Muertos, but some kids do Trick-or-Treat here. Will see if the recent events hinder that. We are going to try to get to the cemetary at Xoxocotlan today, which is on the other side of the city, a good distance. Not sure what the zocalo is like, not having been there since Sunday, or if other blockades are up. Went out yesterday for the paper. No busses and a small demonstration in front of the medical school, welcoming the PFP, chanting "APPO out of Oaxaca" with signs of that nature. With los dias starting, I may not be posting anything for the next few days, depending on how involved it becomes. But here is the tentative schedual: Oct.31 - Xoxocatlan, maybe Santa Maria Atzompa Nov.1 - San Miguel, El ... read more
Some youngsters
Trick-or-Treat

North America » Mexico » Oaxaca » Oaxaca October 30th 2006

I don't think it was either bravery or stupidity, but curiosity and the need to see it for ourselves, that drove us to go to the zocalo on Sunday. It was an exqusite dawn, everything seemed so "ordinary" in the usual daily sence of the word. Yet knowing that the police and military were moving towards the center, it was anything but. Some deep compulsion to go, to be there, to witness. Our agreement was to go as far as the bus stop. If everything was okay, proceed to the next big intersection. OK, on to "Casa del Angel". Before we knew it, we were crossing a barrier into the zocalo. A Sunday Mass was about to begin, so we got to hear the pipe organ. Some people outside painting in large letters a message to ... read more
White Flag
View of the zocalo
Another view

North America » Mexico » Oaxaca » Oaxaca October 29th 2006

Thursday night: quiet with a light rain, all of the dogs and firecracker-lighters forced undercover. Thunder and lightening, an eerie foreboding of the impending clash of opposing forces. Friday: in the zocalo, where else. Disconcertingly vacant of vendors, even at noon. Also APPO seemingly down in numbers. We found people out moving the barracades, from just around the zocalo, to as many as 5-6 blocks away. New barricades, sometimes just a huge bus parked sideways, blocking all but pedestrian passage, in other places. Oaxaca de Juarez grinding to a halt. Still a bit of the usual goal-less wandering; a new neighborhood, a new church. Back to the zocalo around 5 o'clock, with another breaking storm, which we sat out with others, under the APPO tarps. Exhausted, we went to get a bus. None. The streets virtually ... read more
Our hope
Stoplight
A Zapotec Man

North America » Mexico » Oaxaca » Oaxaca October 27th 2006

Today is the first day that I took less than 77 photos. Oddly, without setting out to, that seems to be the number I've taken daily. Its been a quiet studio day, that's why, with a walk around a new section of town not far from here. Yesterday we re-explored the indoor market, then some of the folkcraft places. Always starting with a tour of the zocalo. What incredible hand work goes into these rugs and embroidery. All naturel dye. Wool, silk or cotton. The most elegantly shaped pots, glazed and unglazed. Stopped at a mole and cheese stand, and got a little of both. One Oaxacan cheese is made as a long rope. You see the vendors balling it up, like yarn, into whatever size you want. The mole they had, a thick putty with ... read more
Cascades of Skeletons
An altar of soil, in progress
Another altar

North America » Mexico » Oaxaca » Oaxaca October 24th 2006

Got to the "Gigante" supermarket on foot to find everything one could need. Just a block from "Pitico", also a biggish store. Even there they have a display of sugar, amerinth, and chocolate skulls. Brightly colored sugar coffins that a skeleton sits up in when you pull a string. There was a large display of pan de muerto (bread of the dead) a sweet, orange flavored treat with a little head sticking out of it. In the center of the display was a lifesize skeleton made entirely out of bread. Quite a bustling place. Spent the afternoon climbing the hill behind the house, to the communications towers and a 360% view. Its a pastoral scene worthy of Corot, goat herder and all. Saw the house I'd buy in a heartbeat.... read more
Pan de Muerto Display
Dream House
the road up to the towers

North America » Mexico » Oaxaca » Oaxaca October 24th 2006

At the moment two turkeys are gobbling outside. I have seen a curved-bill thrasher and some toehees in the garden. Hummingbirds darting too quickly to identify. But the big deal was in a dead tree near the soccer field on the way to the bus. At first I thought it was a crow, but something was off in the shape. Then it turned its head and there was that bill, full faced like a puffin. It sounded like a squeeky toy. An Ani? I'll keep looking. Tim has arrived safely, and without incident. We wandered the zocalo, now my second home, watching the men building bamboo structures to which they attached fireworks, for the evenings events. We only realised too late that I have been two hours behind all this time, thus missing the festivities. I ... read more
A Chili and Spice stand
Intestines, I think.
Sugar Skulls

North America » Mexico » Oaxaca » Oaxaca October 23rd 2006

My first thought each morning it to go to the zocalo. Something vital is happening there. Too bad that many have canceled their plans to come, out of fear, while others haven't even heard a word and are flabbergasted. We visitors from elsewhere are few. I read that two more teachers were killed last week. No one knows what will happen next, but APPO is not giving up. Some have started a hunger strike. There is so much that I just don't understand. But now that I can put up images I don't feel the need to write so much. In the words of Benito Juarez, "El respeto al derecho ajeno es la paz." Respect for the rights of others is peace.... read more
A smaller barricade
Marchers
The central Podium

North America » Mexico » Oaxaca » Oaxaca October 22nd 2006

If I had any sense, I would know that eating chocolate at midnight is not going to put me back to sleep. At 3am I decided it was time to get up. That got me to the zocalo just after dawn. That quiet time when everyone is stumbling around still half asleep, reading the paper or drinking coffee. Food and drink vendors on bikes. The bustling of setting up stalls to sell clothing and things. The APPO camp's quiet, too. An elderly woman, shoeless with bunches of flowers strapped on her back, shuffled up to me, her eyes cloudy, asking me to buy a bunch of white freesia. If not, how about some wilted roses? 10 pesos (a dollar). I took the freesia, that were tied together with a couple reeds, giving her a 10 peso ... read more
My flower Lady
Balloon Vendor
Carving Calaveras

North America » Mexico » Oaxaca » Oaxaca October 21st 2006

Although it was quiet last night, I was restless, my mind going back to the zocalo and the people spending the night there. Maybe in the next couple of days I'll try to stay after dark, at least. This morning my feet were in no mood to cover more ground, so I puttered around the yard, disicovering an avacado tree full of fruit and a big yellow-spotted green orb-weaving spider with hairy leg joints that made it look like it was wearing knee pads. Come high noon, though, I had to get out. Part of this reatlessness is just having Oaxaca de Juarez outside the window. No time to waste. So I headed north to scout out the cemetary of San Filipe de Agua. Its small, and unfortunately the gate was locked. The neighborhood is rather ... read more




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