"All that glitters isn't gold." My days in Oaxaca, a city whose colonial architecture, art-filled parks, floral courtyards, lively plazas, colorful shopfronts, extraordinary cathedrals, historical artifacts, and purely delicious cuisine beckon you to explore its wonders, have proven one of the key truths in travel: it is the people where you travel that make or break the experience. For no matter how fascinatingly gorgeous or culturally rich a place is, it will never win first prize in your list of travel greats if you feel you have been swindled, attacked, or otherwise mistreated. My first impressions of the city, having arrived at 6 in the morning and being blessed with the rare opportunity to watch the city slowly rise from its quiet slumber, were quite memorable. This was obviously a city that valued its private morning
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