San Filipe and "Goose"

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The third entry and last of the cemetaries. Setting off at about two, we saw plumes of smoke coming from the university area. A woman we passed urged caution as "people were being rounded up." We were heading in the opposite direction, to the northern edge of the city and the tiny cemetary of Sn Filipe del Agua. It, too, was bustling, but in an more familiar, everybody-knows-everybody, small town kind of way. We sat on the massive knarled roots of a huge tree, just watching families go about their business, arm-loads of flowers. Sweeping, washing, making flower crosses and hearts, a few painting. A group of kids playing a roudy game of tag. One pair, obviously brothers. The older, concerned about his younger brother, kept yelling "Goose! Dame la mano!" And you would see Goose dashing in the opposite direction, hiding behind a grave mounded with flowers. He'd be caught and dragged by the arm a ways, only to wiggle away and run. They were scouting out the graves of babys. "Here's one"he'd announce, and "How old was he?". A mass was held under the branches of the same tree, and as darkness fell, more folks arrived. More kids, more games - costumed as skeletons, devils, and vampires mostly, looking for treats, as they have been the last three days, forget the 31st. Darting between graves, hide and seek. Copal began filling the air, people setting up altars at graves, eating, drinking, talking. A marimba band sets up and beging to play. The cemetary is packed. The most tourists we've seen thus far. Quite moving. Outside on the street, the food and beer vendors are doing a rousing business, although when I said that to one woman, she said that it was so-so. Today I read that tension is mounting. The smoke we saw were busses burning at the university. It is raining. We need to go to the store.

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Photos

Flower Vendor
in front of the enterance to the cemetary

Simple crosses
made from a couple of bricks

Goose was not easy
to photograph, to say the least. He has the blue t-shirt on and his brother has a red and blue spiderman t-shirt on

Many graves
had a solid tapistry of flower heads, plucked and arranged in a cross or heart pattern, or to form names

At the base
of the big tree

Off in a corner
away from the music and crowded area

Comments

[Vicki D.]

Love the Photos
Hi Hank, I've been thinking about you all week, but I've been so busy getting my new exhibit up, haven't had a chance to check the blog. I'm in Blog Heaven, getting to see all your fabulous Muertos photos and catching up. Oh my, what memorable experiences for you. There was a short article on the front page of the paper about troops in the zocalo (I hope I set it aside for you). On NPR, the military developments got one sentence. Do you think the white flags symbolized sympathy with the troops or surrender? Thanks for the comments about Goose and his brother. Puts things in perspective. Enjoy!

[Wild Eyed]

Fabulous!
Hey Hank, I have REALLY enjoyed reading about your experiences in "the cultural capital of Mexico". Your detailed accounts alone are enough to bring this special area of the world to life in my imagination, but the incredible pictures you have posted make visiting your page all the more exciting! I'm inspired! Cuidate y continua sacar las fotos fabulosas, por favor! Brian.

[Nancy Solomon]

Hi from Luang Prabang
It's good to see that politics in Oaxaca didn't get in the way of El Dia de Los Muertos. In Chiang Mai at the beginning of November, I participated in Loi Krathong, lunar festival for the water goddess. The cares of the last are sent away. The sky is filled with changing constellations of rising hot-air paper balloons. People also launch floating floral bouquets in the River Ping. I put my hand in the river and pushed off my floral offering, also with the cares of the year. My six fellow travellers and I stood on the river bank and watchedthe candle flames in our offerings pulled up river by the currents. It made me think of the Day of the Dead connection with the Other even though this has more animist roots.