It's been a quiet, happy winter--often sunny but also COLD, Antalya's coldest winter in thirty years. Without insulation, double-glazed windows, or central heating in our building, we've been warmed mostly by the smartwool and down clothing we brought with us. I have been known to sleep in my winter jacket, muffler and gloves. We do have wall-mounted heat pumps ("klimas") in three rooms, but two of them--as well as the hot water heater--have been on the friitz quite a bit. In defense, we joined a health club in January, partly for the reliable access to hot showers! To stay warm during the day, we heat one smallish room and use it for everything. We study there, hover with guests, and eat in a corner of windows which has a view of the sea-- now that the
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