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Published: October 11th 2023
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Back in Istanbul but this time on the “newer” side. Istanbul is divided on two continents, Europe and Asia. Where we stayed last time was the Europe side where the original capital of the Roman/Christian, world was seated. Constantinople, now known as Istanbul, was founded by Emperor Justiniani then built up by Emperor Constantine who wanted Constantinople to become the Christian capital of the world. Later, after the Ottoman Seige, it would be seated in Rome. The newer side, where we are staying now was the site off the Genoese (Italian) walled city called Galata. In ancient times, the two sides were connected by a massive iron chain that sat on the bottom of the Bosphorus Strait. When under attack, they would pull the chain from both sides to raise it high enough, but just below water level, to reach the hull of the invading ships. The obstruction would stop them, often breeching the hull causing them to sink. Thus, the two walled cities remained impenetrable for over 28 attempted invasions spanning centuries. The Galata tower sitting high on a hill, was the main watch tower on the Genoese side and remains today in excellent condition.
After settling in our
hotel, we rode the funicular to the top of the hill to begin exploring the shopping district of Galata. The funicular is a two car passenger vehicle connect by cables. As the top one is released, gravity pulls it down the tunnel causing the opposing car to be pulled up the hill. They pass on a siding in the middle so they never occupy the single track simultaneously. The Istanbul funicular is the first underground funicular and the second oldest in the world, operating continuously since 1875.
The funicular brings you to Istaklar street, a miles long shopping district, lined with beautiful old buildings, restaurants and churches. A trolley runs from the funicular to the Taksim square, often the site of demonstrations. Happily, we found only hungry patrons lining up for döner. The single small trolley runs down the center of the street and can often be seen with people hanging from the windows, doors, steps and sometimes the outside ledges. It stops frequently for people to hop on and off but some just run, grab something and hold on!
We wandered the street finding many things to keep us interested. Unlike the old Bazaar, these shops are
modern retail establishments, selling high end merchandise, mostly European and Turkish brands. High end is relative though, as most of the prices are extremely reasonable compared to US standards.
One of the things I have been looking forward to having while in Turkey was döner with yoghurt. This is a Turkish staple where the meat, layered and cooked on a vertical spit, is shaved off in thin slices. The best way to have it is over cubed pita bread, covered in a special tomato sauce with yoghurt on the side. I told Sharon for many people smells can evoke powerful memories. I believe taste did it for me! The döner was every bit as good as I remember and took me back to 17 yrs of age!
This was followed by a stop for dondurma (ice cream). Mado, is a Turkish version of ice cream. It is made with milk and churned like ice cream, but is mixed with
salep, a flour made from the root of the
early purple orchid, and
mastic, a resin that imparts chewiness. The flavors of dondurma are usually mild, more like gelato, but the product is very dense. It sometimes doesn’t melt, and depending
on the quantities of mastic used, must be eaten with a knife and fork!
Another stop for pomegranite/orange juice rounded out our culinary adventures and we headed for the hotel. Down the hill on foot this time, we wandered past more shops and bright displays in the lighting and electrical shops. All manner of modern lighting, for both residential and commercial needs lined the streets as well as electrical supply places and a version of the corner hardware store, smaller than a 7-Eleven.
Back at our hotel for the night, we logged another 7 miles for the day. Tomorrow is more exploration of wonderful Istanbul.
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