Day 8 - Izmir, Aphrodisias, Heiropolis and Pammukale

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Setting off early with our driver and guide we learned a bit more about modern Izmir and the history of our destinations. After a 2.5 hr card ride, we started at Aphrodisias. This city, previously unknown to us, was once home to over 100,000 people. Amazing remains exist that demonstrate daily life in the ancient world. This city was contemporary with Hierapolis which was about the same size but much more famous for its hot springs, said to have healing powers. The friezes decorate the entire city and were depictions of actual citizens of note, some were historical figures and some were mythical.

The emperor Diocletian, concerned for the welfare of all his citizens, issued an edict of maximum prices. The prices were “posted” carved in marble on the walls of the market square, for all to see. They covered everything from services and goods one might buy or trade. It also include pricing for transport of goods from everywhere as far as Alexandria and Efes, to Constantinople. My sister, a lawyer, was distressed to learn her services were of less value than an ostrich!

The Amphitheater held 10,000 patrons and the stadium held 100,000, the entire city could come and watch chariot races, and Olympic sports.

Next was an hour ride to Hierapolis and Pammukale. Hierapolis, similar to Aphrodisias in many ways, drew people from all over hoping to find healing in the natural hot springs. Because of the high mineral content of the springs, as the water drains down the mountain, the white calcium carbonate is deposited in terraces that form what is called the “cotton castle” known as Pammukale.

The springs remain, but sad to say, have become very “touristy”. We remember a day there was a single, very small, hotel on site. The springs were still natural, with no walls or steps. Climbing in and out was treacherous, but all natural. You can still swim among the ancient columns, walk the rocky bottom and envision yourself among ancient Heiropolians though.

After bathing we visited the terraces then boarded a cart to visit the far reaches of Hierapolis. The necropolis here is huge and is a big deal, because those who came too late to the hot springs for healing, didn’t leave the city. More than 10,000 people died and have been buried at Hierapolis. Not as much of the city has been restored but the amphitheater is largely intact. This stunning feature also held 10,000 patrons for plays, musical performances, festivals and meetings. The original features are early Greek, but later Roman influences added more elaborate architecture and ornamentation. We caught this site right at sunset. What a special place to be at the golden hour!

After a 3 hour ride back to Izmir, we were exhausted. Logging 8.3 miles, we were ready for bed! Tomorrow we fly back to Istanbul to see the Asia side, newer but also rich in history.

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