Blogs from Safranbolu, Black Sea, Turkey, Middle East

It’s for days like today, that I do what I do. My only goal was to walk to the İncekaya Aqueduct, an old Byzantine structure that spans the Tokatlı Gorge. With the sun on my face, a cool breeze at my back and good tunes in my ears, I charged uphill for seven kilometers, passing only a handful of people on the way (all of whom smiled and waved at the crazy woman). I was on my own the entire day, free to enjoy the peacefulness of the river, the aqueduct, the bells of the sheep grazing on the hills around me. I had no place to be, and nothing to do – just be. It’s also days like today when I wonder if I’m crazy, or maybe the only one who’s got the right idea. ... read more

Built during the 17th century as a stopping point along the trade route to the Black Sea coast, Safranbolu lies within a deep ravine of the Tokatlı mountains. Although the town now boasts running water and electricity, there is nothing modern about it. The buildings are made from sun-dried mud bricks and wood, varying in condition from crumbling to perfectly restored. Toilets are hidden in cupboards, and houses come equipped with revolving cupboards (allowing women to prepare meals unseen). The town is known for its handmade textiles and sweet shops – and the people who live here are even sweeter than the lokum they sell. After only half a day, it felt like I already knew the entire village. The taxi drivers who had helped me the previous night, waved in warm recognition. An old man ... read more

Hanging out at a bus station in Istanbul on a Friday night in the height of Summer is not something I want to do again! Everyone tells me how great the Turkish bus system is and I'm sure it is. My first experience just happened to be chaos! Cumhur decided to come to Safranbolu with me as he hasn't seen much of Turkey so I was happy to have company. Not to mention someone who could speak Turkish with me as it's taking me a little while to forget the Uzbek and Russian I've learned over the last month and pick up some Turkish vocab. Our bus was meant to leave at 1am and when we arrived at the bus station there were hundreds of people waiting for their buses that were supposed to have left ... read more

It had been a bit of an adventure to find the cushy, blue seat I was sitting in. I had managed to find my way to the gate that the bus company representative told me to go to. I discovered there that the ‘gate’ was only a very general description of where I may find the bus that I had purchased a ticket on. I stepped out into the group of people crowding around a few buses, none of which were marked with a destination, and, like a parrot, I began reciting my rehearsed sentence, “Otobus Safranbolu ne zaman kalkar?” After a few blank stares, a laugh or two and a smile that is universal the world over for, “I don’t have any idea what you are saying” I abandoned my attempt at speaking Turkish and ... read more