So thaaaaaaaaaat's what all the hype is about. Just 3 hours north of Ankara is the lovely town of Safranbolu, filled with cobblestone alleyways, well-preserved Ottoman-era houses, and more charm than, well, than you could ever find in Ankara. Jen came in from İstanbul, showing up late in the afternoon Friday to check out the town before my arrival later that evening. After I showed up and dropped of my bags, it was time for a walk. I asked her if she would know how to get us back in the dark and she said "you pretty much just keep walking around and eventually you end up back here." It didn't take long for me to feel completely disoriented in the town's chaotic, curvy, windy alleys, but it turned out that she was right, and somehow
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