Advertisement
Published: October 5th 2016
15 September 2016, Thursday, Day 17, Povoa de Varzim to Esposende Hotel Suave Mar. 14.37 miles by Garmin
12.67 miles by Fitbit.
Today it is overcast with a few 'blue breaks' in the sky to the east. Way far to the north, along the coast line, a headland with some buildings on it, appear and disappear in the mist.
There is not a route for today in the Brierley book. But we follow the yellow arrows and the coastline Boardwalk north.
The first part of the day is by the sea on the lovely boardwalks. We see the sea weed spread to dry before it is collected and chopped to spread onto the fields for fertilizer. Eventually we turn inland and spend a large part of the day walking through truck farms. They are spectacular. The soil is very rich. We see melons, carrots, onions, garlic and the star of the show - the most beautiful lettuce imaginable.
As we enter the territory of Esposende, we follow a track called 'Caminho da Vida e da Morte' or Life and Death Way. We begin to think the lack of a restroom or a coffee shop is also
a 'life and death' matter when we enter Apulia. It has a beautiful church and also a sign telling us to go a few blocks off the Camino for coffee. Ah, yes! Coffee and a lovely bathroom. A large group of walkers that we have been bumping into since Porto come through the doors and we know it is time to move on.
It is interesting to realize that I can, so far, count on the fingers of one hand, the times we have resorted to bathrooms, au natural, on this Camino. Even though towns are more scarce and facilities not as frequent as on the Camino Frances, they have just seemed to materialize at the right moment. On the Camino Frances one could go for long distances between facilities and you quickly could spot emergency haystacks or a lone tree far ahead!
We next find ourselves on the Caminho das Areias - Sand Way, until we reach Fao.
We reach the mouth of the River Cavado and cross the D. Luis Felipe Bridge, that represents the age of cast iron architecture. I am disappointed in the bridge. I have, pictured in my mind, a quaint, very
detailed small bridge, over a small stream. Instead, it is a plain bridge of no quaintness, over a very wide stream! However, it is a welcome sight, as our goal for today's walk is on the north side of the bridge, and although a number of miles away, lifts our spirits ?
As we approach the bridge a 'gaggle' of teenage girls start talking and crowding around Harlan. They are asking him all kinds of questions. He backs up against a wall so his pack is pressed against the wall. I continue walking but Jo stays behind to look after her friend. She has visions of a bunch of gypsy teens assaulting an elderly man. Pretty soon a group of teen guys come by and join the party. It is all good fun but I am glad we have one in our party who does think of different scenarios and wants all to be safe!
Now on the north side of the river we walk along its banks for some distance. Jo and Harlan go on ahead. The plan is to follow the river to its mouth at the ocean and then make a big sweeping curve along
the beach until we reach the hotel. I am staying behind at the beginning of a long stretch and waiting for Moira and Julian. Moira is having foot issues. They arrive and we go, at a slower pace. It seems as if it is a very long time before the hotel is spotted. This is a lovely, older hotel with sitting rooms here and there as well as al fresco dining.
Our room is small but has a long bench along the wall upon which our duffel bags fit. It is wonderful when they are off the floor. The tub is big and comfortable and the hot water helps the aches and pains of the day.
Tired, we eat at the hotel and the Maitre d' recommends garlic soup. It is often seen on the menu. This one is a creamy soup and we all agree it is not very garlicky!
This hotel will be remembered because of its beautiful azuelos in the public areas and the gorgeous bougainvillea that cascades over the balcony of the second floor all around the pool area.
Advertisement
Tot: 0.065s; Tpl: 0.02s; cc: 10; qc: 23; dbt: 0.0353s; 1; m:domysql w:travelblog (10.17.0.13); sld: 1;
; mem: 1.1mb
