When the hotel wrote me last week to say they were having a big private do tonight, restaurant closed, lots of music, "expect some noise" until 2 am. I sorta flipped out. Expect noise? At their prices? So I asked, and they promised a room Higher up, quieter. Top floor with private terrace at the same price, thank you very much indeed. That will do nicely. Maybe I shouldn't have asked so fast. Half an our ago, as we lay here reading, somebody started up a muffled, big band version of "Heartbreak Hotel". (oh, dear.) I opened the window. It WAS a big band. A pretty good one, playing in the square just below us. Next we got Begin The Beguin, followed by about six other numbers. They are gone now, but we enjoyed our private
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